Need M42 Body For Yashinon 55/1.2 DS-M

[Greyscale]

By the time the AX was in the planning stages, "Top Secret Project 130" (the agreement with Zeiss to produce the new line of Contax SLR cameras) was already well underway. But the AX was a great disappointment, I'm sure, in that with the TL Electro X, Yashica seemed poised to join the ranks of top tier producers under their own brand.

 

[wjlapier]

Lens:
IMG_1467

IMG_1466

Thanks for the info on different bodies and things to look out for.

My original plan was to have SK Grimes convert the mount to F for Nikon, but never got around to sending it in. They did two other lenses in the past and for the most part I was happy. Canon FD 35/2.8 T/S and Canon FD 85/1.2L. The 85 rear went too far into a Nikon body and had other issues with the Nikon mount I could never figure out. Adapters worked fine with it on m4/3, but that wasn't why I spent the money to have it done. Hence my hesitant to have this lens done. I'm thinking I would have the same issue with the rear of the lens.

So, I'm now thinking of using it on a m42 camera, or adapt it somehow to another--Maybe Canon AE-1? I haven't got that far with the research about film plane to flange differences.

So, I'll keep looking into it.

Thanks again.

 

[wjlapier]

Oh, and I noticed the asking prices of this lens has doubled since I last looked into selling it. Amazing.

 

[f16sunshine]

Lens: IMG_1467 IMG_1466 Thanks for the info on different bodies and things to look out for. My original plan was to have SK Grimes convert the mount to F for Nikon, but never got around to sending it in. They did two other lenses in the past and for the most part I was happy. Canon FD 35/2.8 T/S and Canon FD 85/1.2L. The 85 rear went too far into a Nikon body and had other issues with the Nikon mount I could never figure out. Adapters worked fine with it on m4/3, but that wasn't why I spent the money to have it done. Hence my hesitant to have this lens done. I'm thinking I would have the same issue with the rear of the lens. So, I'm now thinking of using it on a m42 camera, or adapt it somehow to another--Maybe Canon AE-1? I haven't got that far with the research about film plane to flange differences. So, I'll keep looking into it. Thanks again.

Nikon, Canon Fd/Fl ..... Won't convert without a glass element.

 

[wjlapier]

Both the FD 35/2.8 and 85/1.2L were converted to F. I still have the 85/1.2.

The 35/2.8 T/S mounted on any Nikon body I have/had. The 85 wouldn't without serious modification to the mirror and top part of the inside of the mount. I managed to finally mount the 85 on a shaved mirror F3.

 

[f16sunshine]

Yes I'm sorry. I meant M42 will not convert to Nikon Or canon Fd/fl.
The m42 register is too short to reach infinity on a Nikon body.
You would only have close focus/macro ability.

 

[wjlapier]

Yes I'm sorry. I meant M42 will not convert to Nikon Or canon Fd/fl.
The m42 register is too short to reach infinity on a Nikon body.
You would only have close focus/macro ability.

Thanks for the info.

I once converted a Minolta 58/1.2 lens to Nikon F. A lot of sanding and the spacer was getting thin. I never got further than 20ft. And on a D700 the mirror hit the rear of the lens at 15ft.

Anyway, I'll look at the recommended cameras to use the Tomioka lens.

I'm still at a loss as to why I would need the pin fixed. The aperture opens and closes just fine. I guess I need to see the working parts of a m42 camera.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Thanks for the info.

I once converted a Minolta 58/1.2 lens to Nikon F. A lot of sanding and the spacer was getting thin. I never got further than 20ft. And on a D700 the mirror hit the rear of the lens at 15ft.

Anyway, I'll look at the recommended cameras to use the Tomioka lens.

I'm still at a loss as to why I would need the pin fixed. The aperture opens and closes just fine. I guess I need to see the working parts of a m42 camera.

Well, if the pin is jammed in the lens has essentially converted itself to a manual aperture lens. But if you wanted it to work they way it was designed to, with automatic stop down on an M42 body (and this is after all what you started the discussion about) then the pin would need to be remedied so it is free to move, in order for the bar inside the throat of M42 bodies to be able to depress it when the shutter is fired.
Cheers
Brett

 

[Greyscale]

If it were mine, it would be on my TL Electro X ITS.

 

[leicapixie]

I still don't see Full Automation as we all understand it now!
Some Pentax had an additional pin and a piece of metal for precise positioning.
The screw mount can vary the place where pin can be pushed in, to close diaphragm.
Changing mounts is both daring, dangerous and expensive..
Canon with FT, A-series were thinner bodies than Pentax and Nikon-F.
The Canon FT, A-series bodies can all have an adapter to accept M42 and Nikon-F.
The lenses would require stop down to use.
My Chinon SLR is aperture auto, but K-Mount.
If it was my lens, sell, move on.
It's only a lens..

 

[tunalegs]

I'm still at a loss as to why I would need the pin fixed. The aperture opens and closes just fine. I guess I need to see the working parts of a m42 camera.

I don't want to sound intelligence insulting, but this is a very basic thing. In an SLR you view an image projected onto the ground glass from the lens. To make viewing and focusing easier, SLR lenses are engineered so that the lens diaphragm is wide open any time the shutter is not in operation - so that the viewfinder is bright and the image easy to focus. When the shutter is fired the lens diaphragm automatically stops down from wide open to the selected aperture to give the desired exposure.

If the pin on an M42 camera is pushed in the lens does not operate like that. The diaphragm remains stopped down to whatever f/stop is selected instead of remaining open until the shutter is fired. Even though the lens is still useable, one loses the bright, easy focusing without a functional aperture pin.

If you have any SLRs you can set the f/stop to a small aperture, then fire the shutter and watch the diaphragm stop down then reopen.

 

[CameraQuest]

Aperture Priority AE with ANY Pentax Screw Mount 42mm Lens

It seems about a zillion 42mm Screw Mount SLRs were made, by about a million different manufacturers. OK, so maybe I exaggerated a little bit. Anyway, the standard metering for most of them was the none too popular stop down mode, because it meant a darkening of the SLR finder before you took the pic. Some manufactures offered later 42mm mounts and lenses which were modified to allow full aperture metering, some even allow full aperture AE. The problem is that most makers used their own system, which would NOT give full aperture metering on other cameras.

A few cameras ingeniously were able to use ALL 42mm lenses with Aperture Priority AE exposure. They did it by taking the exposure reading just after the lens stopped down, and just before the shutter opened. This rather short list is useful if you are searching for a convenient AE body for your screw mount lenses. The ones I know about are:

Chinon CE Memotron, advanced silicon metering system, 2-1/2000th second shutter, aka GAF L-ES, Sears 2000 ES.
Chinon CE2 Memotron, advanced silicon metering system, 1-1/2000th second shutter, aka GAF L-ES2, Argus CR3E
Chinon CE-3 Memotron, all of the above in a compact body.
Side note: the Chinons seem relatively dependable cameras, but NOT the trouble prone CE-3 winder!

The Chinons offered advanced features such as motor drive, radio control, intervolmeter, and a very advanced Data Back.

Cosina Hi-Lite EC 4-1/2000th, silicon metering, aka Argus / Cosina EC 2000
Cosina Hi Lite ECII, AE hold added, spot and averaging meter, aka Vivitar 650 SLX

Yashica AX, CDS metering

 

[wjlapier]

Who would you recommend I send the lens to to have the pin repaired?

I did find a Yashica TL Electro X body. Everything seems to work. I can't tell if the pin stuck causes any issue with this body, short of running a roll through it.

 

[tunalegs]

Who would you recommend I send the lens to to have the pin repaired?

I did find a Yashica TL Electro X body. Everything seems to work. I can't tell if the pin stuck causes any issue with this body, short of running a roll through it.

The pin won't cause any issue with the camera body. As for repairs any competent repair shop should be able to fix it pretty quickly.

 

[Greyscale]

Who would you recommend I send the lens to to have the pin repaired?

I did find a Yashica TL Electro X body. Everything seems to work. I can't tell if the pin stuck causes any issue with this body, short of running a roll through it.

The pin won't cause an issue, as the TL Electro X would normally stop down the lens to meter. But the view through the finder will also be the view through the stopped down lens, even when the meter has not been activated. But hey, you're probably going to be shooting wide open on that first roll, anyway ...