Neopan 1600 & Rodinal Recipe

[Thardy]

You lost me on this. Don't know what you are talking about.

There's a discussion on APUG about this. Develop at high temp and short time.

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/111422-45-seconds-45-degrees-so-crazy-just-might-work.html

Results are probably ugly.

 

[gb hill]

There's a discussion on APUG about this. Develop at high temp and short time.

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/111422-45-seconds-45-degrees-so-crazy-just-might-work.html

Results are probably ugly.

Ok! I think I'll pass on that technique. I'd screw it up for sure.😉 BTW why would anyone wan't bigger grain with rodinal? Rodinal is grainy enough, least it is with me.

 

[sleepyhead]

I happen to be scanning some negs from the year 2005 shot on Neopan 1600...

GOD I MISS THAT FILM!

WHY? WHY? WHY is it gone?

 

[gb hill]

I happen to be scanning some negs from the year 2005 shot on Neopan 1600...

GOD I MISS THAT FILM!

WHY? WHY? WHY is it gone?

Post some examples here & let us know what you developed them with. BTW what speed did you shoot it at?

 

[semilog]

I miss it too. DDX 1:4 or XTOL 1:1. EI 800 or 1600.

 

[Tom A]

Neopan 1600 @ 1200 in Rodinal 1:100 with 5% Sodium Sulphite added (75 gram for 1500 ml of the Rodinal 1:100 soup). Semistand development 30 min (agitation @ 10 and 20 min - just a flip of the tank). Color Skopar 24mm f4.0 M-mount version.

 

[gb hill]

Here is one of the better frames that came out of the roll. Still not sure if I like the grain. Tom's photo & Roland's 1:100 stand method is the way to go it seems if I want less grain. Most of the frames were too grainy or a bit muddy looking. Looking at the negs. it does look somewhat foggy which is a bummer since the film is only 5 months out of date but kept in the fridge. The light at the edges are from my chepo film scanner.

 

[sleepyhead]

Post some examples here & let us know what you developed them with. BTW what speed did you shoot it at?

I used to shoot it at 1200, and process in DDX 1:4.

I still have 10 rolls in the freezer (expiration date was in 2007 I believe). I think I'll try the recipe Tom just posted - the results look very nice indeed.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Thanks Roland. those 2 shots are nice. I read where Chris Crawford shoots this film at the same speed as you do. I think I will shoot my next roll at 640. I've been told by a few that I should give stand dev. a try. I have a local friend who is getting excellent results with 1:200 stand with rodinal but i'm not that brave. I may give your 1:100 stand results a go next time. I think you have a post you made when you 1st started stand dev. I'll read through that thread. Merry Christmas to you Roland. I bet you have some lovely shot's made of this season of your family. I always enjoy seeing your post.🙂

Greg,

Sorry it took me a few days to see this, I've been sick all week. Santa brought me a nasty respiratory infection on Christmas eve that is just now starting to subside. 🙁

I shot Neopan 1600 at EI-640 and developed it in D-76 1+1 for 7 minutes at 68 degrees (20C). I haven't tried it in Rodinal, so I can't help you on that, but I know it is gorgeous in D-76.

 

[gb hill]

Chris those examples look so good in D76. I wish I had some to use & no one sells it around here, besides money is very tight right now. I'm gonna rate the film at it's true speed @ 640 & see if I get better results. I might research to see if others have used HC110. I have some of that also. BTW Chris I hope you got over that nasty infection.

 

[Fotohuis]

If you want to shoot Neopan 1600 at box speed you will need already a speed enhancing type developer. in Diafine you will get excellent results at E.I. 1600.
In Rodinal E.I. 640 is the regular speed. In most developers like D76, HC-110 E.I. 800.
Of course you can try a push development which can be done succesfully with HC-110.

 

[Roger Hicks]

I happen to be scanning some negs from the year 2005 shot on Neopan 1600...

GOD I MISS THAT FILM!

WHY? WHY? WHY is it gone?

Because hardly anyone bought it, and because its true ISO is maybe 1/3 stop higher than HP5 Plus. In other words, it was making false claims about speed. Look on the box with Delta 3200 and they admit the true ISO. The only Fuji reps I ever talked to pretended that Neopan 1600 was ISO 1600, which it never even approached.

Because the market couldn't even support TMZ alongside Delta 3200, let alone a film that was neither medium speed (ISO 400) nor pushable to really high speeds (ISO up to 1250, good EIs at 1600, 2000 and above).

Also, many were not taken with its tonality. It's all very well to say that they might have been keener if they'd persevered, but that argument can be used of any film. After all, any film can produce good pictorial results if you persevere long enough, even microfilm.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Tom A]

I rated NP 1600 at 1000 or 1200 iso with good negative as a result. Usually in Rodinal but also in D76 and other developers (Pyro etc). I did try it at 1200 in Rodinal 1:100 with conttinious agitation for 14 min - looked quite decent.
It was not 1600 iso, but neither TMZ 3200 or Ilfords 3200 were "box speed" either. Usually worked best at around 1000 iso.

 

[Tom A]

Tokyo, 1995, Fishmarket. Neopan @ 1200, Leica M3 and Elmarit 90mm f2.8 vIV. Developed in PYRO developer for 15 min.

 

[jan normandale]

Neopan 1600 @ 1200 in Rodinal 1:100 with 5% Sodium Sulphite added (75 gram for 1500 ml of the Rodinal 1:100 soup). Semistand development 30 min (agitation @ 10 and 20 min - just a flip of the tank). Color Skopar 24mm f4.0 M-mount version.

Tom what effect does the Sodium Sulphite have on the development process. Like you I do 'semi stands' with one or two agitations of a "flip" as you call it.

 

[Fotohuis]

 

[Fotohuis]

Neopan 1600 E.I. 1600 in SLD (Spur). But you can have similar results with all type speed enhancing developers: Diafine, Microphen, Acu-1 whatever.