'New' Fed 3 - couple of questions.

Goodyear

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I've just received my first FSU camera, although it's not actually mine. I've bought it as a gift for my father, although I'm wondering if there may be one in my future, as well. Will see how the test roll goes :)

It's the leverwind version of the Fed 3.

Anyway, being new to these cameras:

When setting slow speeds, is it normal to have to 'fight' the clockwork? Like if you let it before you drop the dial again, it'll swing back round to the faster speeds?

And I think I remember reading somewhere that the first two digits of the serial number were the year of manufacture. But Matt Denton's site says these were made up to 1980, and the s/n on this copy is 87*****. So, either the info is wrong, I've remembered it wrong or misapplied it (most likely, I think), or someone's started copying Feds!

And you know what, I feel like a total n00b again :D

Already I can see the appeal, althoguh I'll need to put something (nail varnish?) on that viewfinder surround-thing - both my father and I wear specs...

Thanks.
 
Mark,

you do know that you should NOT change shutter speeds without cocking the camera first? And yes, turning to the slower speeds you will feel a bit of resistance.

About the serial number: what you said is only true for Zorkis, not for FEDs.

Roman
 
Mark,
For the eyepiece--I found a rubber O-ring at my local hardware store(10 for a dollar, I think) and rubber cemented it to the eyepiece surround. Dunno what size the FED3 would need but just take the camera along and it should be easy to find the right size.
Rob
 
If you glue an o-ring to the eye piece, be sure that it will still rotate. The metal surround rotates to adjust the diopter, which is a helpful feature for wearers of eye glasses.
 
I have the same Fed 3 and the same exact problem. If I move the shutter speed dial below 50 (after cocking the shutter, of course) then it gets tough to move around and I can't move it back to the high speed with out a lot of fiddling. So, I've just been using the higher shutter speeds. I'm sure something is screwed up with the shutter speed dial, but I'm not sure I want to open it up and fix it, or just get a new one...
 
I had it out to run a test roll through this afternoon - I'm finding it a bit of a pain with the glasses. I found myself focussing from a distance of a few inches from the finder (where I can see just the RF patch and a little more), then removing my specs and coming in close to frame, sometimes adjusting the diopter between the two.

Unfortunately, the built-in diopter isn't enough for me to focus without my glasses - I'm quite seriously short-sighted, plus a bit of astygmatism (sp?), so even with it dialled all the way up I can't really focus comfortably. And even with the ring padded, I suspect I wouldn't be able to see enough of the VF with my specs on to keep me happy.

Fortunately my father's eyesight isn't as bad as mine :)

Which is all a shame, as I found it a fun wee camera to use, with a nice heft and a nice feel. Despite the dimmer VF, I actually found it easier and quicker to focus than my Bessa R, since the RF on my R is out of alignment in the vertical and I'm not confident enough to adjust it myself. It's still in warranty, but I bought it from CQ and am not sending it to the States and back just for that. Must find someone in the UK who will adjust it economically... But that's OT by a ways :D

I doubt I'll be lookng for a Fed 3 for myself, however much fun it is. Now I await the test roll to see if there's any light leaks or other trouble...
 
Solinar said:
If you glue an o-ring to the eye piece, be sure that it will still rotate. The metal surround rotates to adjust the diopter, which is a helpful feature for wearers of eye glasses.
Thanks for pointing that out, Solinar! I don't own a FED3 and the FSU cameras I have with diopter adjusment each use a lever under the re-wind knob. I will remember to include that info when/if I reccomend the o-ring again!
Rob
 
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