New in the Darkroom - Chem Question

[DanielDuarte]

Hi all, I am completely new in the darkroom and want to assemble some chemistry for developing and printing B/W film. If you were starting from square zero list your ideal chemistry set up. What I am now facing is that I am having a hard time figuring out if I should stick to certain brands and/or how some brands react with each other.

For example, if I were to pick up Adox Rodinal how would that developer pair up with say Formulary TF4 as a fixer. I'm just unsure of what the best "combo" of chemicals is.

I'd like to stick to liquid, I had the hardest time dissolving powder when working in some other formats in the past (alternative photography).

Thanks everyone.

 

[leicapixie]

The most important part for me, is consistency.
Stocking your darkroom, should bear that in mind.
I have used many brands at different times, without problems.
Use chemicals easily available.

Film developing.
I use Blazinol (Rodinal).
Ilford's Rapid Fixer.
Ilford Wetting agent for final rinse.

Go with steel tanks and reels.
Easier to wash out old chemicals..

Actual wet darkroom, doing printing.
I only use Ilford chemicals.
Kodak stuff disagrees with me.
See that you have adequate ventilation.
Keep everything simple!

Scanning!
It sucks compared to a projection print.
Sadly for internet usage that is a must.

Good luck.
It really is fun.

 

[DanielDuarte]

The most important part for me, is consistency.
Stocking your darkroom, should bear that in mind.
I have used many brands at different times, without problems.
Use chemicals easily available.

Film developing.
I use Blazinol (Rodinal).
Ilford's Rapid Fixer.
Ilford Wetting agent for final rinse.

Go with steel tanks and reels.
Easier to wash out old chemicals..

Actual wet darkroom, doing printing.
I only use Ilford chemicals.
Kodak stuff disagrees with me.
See that you have adequate ventilation.
Keep everything simple!

Scanning!
It sucks compared to a projection print.
Sadly for internet usage that is a must.

Good luck.
It really is fun.

The whole ventilation thing is going to be an issue. While certainly not safe, I'd probably say I will have no reaction to the chemistry because I've been making collodion images in my darkroom, sans any ventilation, for a year and I've never felt any lightheadedness or anything.

 

[bojanfurst]

leicapixie, just out of curiosity, when you say Kodak chemicals disagree with you, what do you mean. I get a very uncomfortable rash from both film and paper chemistry that can last for days and I think I got it down to kodak fixer, not 100% sure. And gloves, sadly, don't help.

To answer OP's question. Experiment with small batches until you find out what is that you like. I like HP5+ in Blazinal when pushed to 1600, but prefer it in TMax or D76 developer at 400. Don't like FP4 at all, but prefer Delta 100 in Tmax or D76. I like TMax 400 pushed to 800 and developed in TMax developer, but I don't like it at all at its native speed. It all comes down to personal preference. If you have a dedicated darkroom (i.e. not a makeshift one in your bathroom), it makes experimentation that much easier. And I concur with leicapixie, steel reels and tanks are better than plastic even if they do take a little bit of practice.

You may get away with ventilation, but the moment you try to use something like selenium toner it becomes mandatory. some of that stuff can be quite poisonous.

 

[MISH]

I use Rodinal for 35mm and 120 and Xtol for large format. (mostly Tri-x film) Funny you should mention Formulary TF-4, it is the fixer I have been using for years and use it for both film and paper. Definitely a product I would endorse.

 

[DanielDuarte]

I use Rodinal for 35mm and 120 and Xtol for large format. (mostly Tri-x film) Funny you should mention Formulary TF-4, it is the fixer I have been using for years and use it for both film and paper. Definitely a product I would endorse.

I saw the TF4 mentioned in one of Ted Forbes podcast, I love his shows.

 

[Bill Clark]

Sorry Dan, I use a lot of powdered chemicals, especially for the film developer. I have found that the powdered chemicals last far longer as a powder than the liquid solutions bought usually in "stock" solution with various dilution ratios. It costs a fair amount to ship liquid chemicals. My main film developer is D-76 or Ilford ID-11.

What I follow with powdered chemicals is to warm the water up to the recommended temperature and I pour in small amounts of the chemical and mix up, pour in some more powder, mix up until the packet is empty. I found that, when mixing, too much powder at once can result in some not getting mixed into the water. I don't have any formula for the amount of powder but small amount works as its easier to get it dissolved into solution. If its a gallon packet I will mix up the entire packet.

For stop bath I buy concentrate solution. Mix up for stock.

For fixer I've used both liquid and powder. Got a deal on some liquid Ilford fixer and Am still using that.

I keep my working solutions in empty 2 liter soda bottles. They work great.

Hope this helps you.

 

[mdarnton]

Black and white chemicals you can mix brands, types, worry-free. Not so color, where the chemicals come in complete kits.

 

[mike rosenlof]

My suggestion (lots of years of experience) is to pick a good general purpose developer, D-76 is great if you're willing to mix powder, HC-110 or one of its many clones is fine as well. Rodinal and Ilfosol, fine also but maybe not best if you push for film speed.

Anyway, pick a developer, and stick with it. Be consistent on your temperatures and agitation. The difference between any of the developers I named really is not that dramatic. I like a HC110 knock-off from "Legacy Pro" or something like that (freestyle) it keeps a long time as concentrate and works.

Stick with one thing and perfect basic technique. Do it for a while -- years -- and make your technique good. Then you can tweak with other chemistry. If you really have a reason to.

Stop bath, any is fine, or just use a water rinse.

Fixer, also any is fine. Watch your capacity and keep it fresh. Err on the side of over-fixing. Yes, you can over fix, but it takes hours not minutes. My film developing volume is low enough that I'm almost ready to start using fixer one-shot, but not quite yet.

 

[RAZOR]

Film:
A bag of D-76 developer (mix stock solution with hot water)
H20 stop
TF-4 fix
10 min. rinse
1 min. with photo flo or similar

Paper:
A bag of Dektol (mix stock solution with hot water)
H20 stop
TF-4 fix

I like this combination because TF-4 is fast (4 min. for film, 1 minute for FB) It does not require an acidic stop bath (use plain water) and the rinse times are very reasonable (20-30 minutes with DW FB paper) Without the use of a hypo eliminator. Very cost effective as well. The Dektol can also be used at 1:6 with only a marginal increase in dev. time.

This combination will cover asa 200-1600 with a 400 speed film.

Good luck and have fun!