New M8.2

Doug said:
I wish my threads generated such a number of opinions so quickly. I'm either dull or don't start with such provocative posts, maybe both. Wiyum and jaapv, I sense the OP was hoping for some heated responses, and will be pleased... swoop picked up on that quickly.
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Perhaps your posts are serious and on topic? 😀
 
The Voightlander 28mm f2 is a nice lens that would compliment your portrait lens and not cost a premium.

An important question to ask is what kind of street photography you want to do. How close would you want to be from your subject? Here are the 35mm film lenses and photographers that might help you decide.

28mm - quite close, think Winogrand
35mm - versatile and popular for street, think David Alan Harvey or Alex Webb
50mm - some what removed, HCB

More than 50mm and you'll have trouble getting back far enough to encompass street scenes close to you.

cheers
 
Actually I quite like M8.2/50, though I use a Sonnar (the Noctilux is good too -- I've tried it). But I'm just about to try out the 24/1.4 and 21/1.4. I suspect that the former is the closest I can get to my favourite film shooting lens, 35/1.4.

A lot of it is a question of getting used to whatever combination you choose, and 'seeing' in a way that suits it. Given that my second favourite lens on film is a 75/2, I can't help suspecting that 24+50 (=32+67 on film) is the natural equivalent of 35+75. Frankly, though, it doesn't matter much what you use, as long as you're happy with it.

Oh: and why would anyone want to use a screw Leica just to pretend to be HCB? It won't get you better pictures. Anyone contemplating such a course of action would be well advised to decide whether they're a photographer or an historical re-enactor.

Tashi delek,

R.
 
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Is this one of threads that only exists in the twilight zone?

The OP needs to back up their original post with a little more info ... why an M8, why street photography, why blame HCB, why even mention the Noctilux, etc etc!
 
Keith said:
Is this one of threads that only exists in the twilight zone?
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As a victim myself, allow me to say:
god-kills-kitten-troll.jpg
 
This thread made me laugh! It has to be a gag....

If not, I would recommend a nice light compact 24/28 as the all rounder and to get out there and practice. Forget the Noct. I cannot imagine a bigger waste of money for the stated purpose. A 24 Elmar or 28 Elmarit, or even 35 Summarit would be just the ticket.

Screwmount Leica to be shoot in the style of HCB? Nah. Give me a M anything to make my life easier. Off to buy a Kodak Masterview and panel van before heading off to the mountains...
 
Well, it's hard to really know what the intention of the original poster (who made this thread as their first post on the RFF forum). I would say trolls are usually more long-standing members who get a kick out of stirring up nonsense. This person could actually be a beginner. There are some people who start out with M8's and new to photography having asked, "what's the best camera for street photography?" I heard about one in my local camera store recently. We won't know until, as Keith said, the original poster comments. If it is someone trying to be a pain in the butt and take advantage of our good will, well, then I wish there was a middle finger emoticon available 😉 on RFF.

I think all the information to answer the question is in the thread now. I'm afraid people are going to start repeating each other in their own words from here on!

Hey, this is my 1,111 post on RFF. I guess I should be quiet for a while and bask in the glow...anybody want to throw me a party thread?

-edit-

Oh, edits get included in post numbers. Sheesh, my glow lasted about three seconds.
 
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Roger Hicks said:
Oh: and why would anyone want to use a screw Leica just to pretend to be HCB? It won't get you better pictures. Anyone contemplating such a course of action would be well advised to decide whether they're a photographer or an historical re-enactor.

Tashi delek,

R.
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My point is more why would any one actually spend £6k on acamera just to pretend to be HCB! It could be done a lot cheaper! I am not a purist about screw mount lenses or anything. But really I have to question the naivity of the original post and strongly suspect it is an early April 1. I would of course love to be proven wrong.


Cheers

Richard
 
Richard Marks said:
My point is more why would any one actually spend £6k on acamera just to pretend to be HCB! It could be done a lot cheaper! I am not a purist about screw mount lenses or anything. But really I have to question the naivity of the original post and strongly suspect it is an early April 1. I would of course love to be proven wrong.


Cheers

Richard
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My brother turned round to me yesterday and said he wanted to buy an MP because he like the photos I take. After growing up with dSLRs, I pointed him towards a Leica R6.2 and a 35mm 'cron - no use in throwing the baby out with the bathwater if all he wants is a manual camera with (I think) Leica glass.

Some people just see photos that they like, see the camera that took them and immediately think it's all down to the camera...
 
Richard Marks said:
My point is more why would any one actually spend £6k on acamera just to pretend to be HCB! It could be done a lot cheaper! I am not a purist about screw mount lenses or anything. But really I have to question the naivity of the original post and strongly suspect it is an early April 1. I would of course love to be proven wrong.


Cheers

Richard
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Dear Richard,

Fair point! But then again, many people think only about digi. If that's your bag, you've a choice of Epson (out of production, even bigger crop factor, 6MP), M8 (nice, but not as nice as M8.2) and M8.2. If you can afford to spend that kind of money, more or less on a whim, the best of luck to you. Wish I could! Then again, if you can afford that kind of money you can afford a lab too...

Tashi delek,

Roger
 
HCB is tour most famous Leica user (sorry Roger!) and any one contemplating a Leica purchase can not fail to be aware of his legacy. However buying a camera to shoot like some one is a little sad and misunderstands why he was so good. By analogy, no amount of money spent on a Cello would allow me to sound like Du Pre. In some ways I hope the original post was a joke.

Best wishes

Richard
 
Thanks for the hepful suggestions. I just spent the weekend practicing with my new camera. It's great and very quite. The rangerfinder isnt so hard to focus - just line two things up in the little bright square in the center, right? Am I missing something. It was sunny so I tried A and lens setting 8. Anyway, I didn't take to many pictures of people yet. Now just getting use to the camera. I practised by focusing on street signs and lisence plates letters first, then on pidgons . By the end of the day, I'm mostly in focus. I'm using fine jpg. Does DNG give better focus? I'll read up on wide angel lenses next. Maybe a 24mm?

El

What does OP mean? I saw it in some answers.
 
m8point2 said:
Thanks for the hepful suggestions. I just spent the weekend practicing with my new camera. It's great and very quite. The rangerfinder isnt so hard to focus - just line two things up in the little bright square in the center, right? Am I missing something. It was sunny so I tried A and lens setting 8. Anyway, I didn't take to many pictures of people yet. Now just getting use to the camera. I practised by focusing on street signs and lisence plates letters first, then on pidgons . By the end of the day, I'm mostly in focus. I'm using fine jpg. Does DNG give better focus? I'll read up on wide angel lenses next. Maybe a 24mm?

El

What does OP mean? I saw it in some answers.
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If you ARE a newbie (and not a troll), gotta admit you seem to be doing the learning thing absolutely right. As much as I think the 50mm is the wrong lense, just keep shooting ONLY with it until you feel comfortable with the way the rangefinder (the camera, not the focus) works, and the way the lense 'sees' the world.

Once you get the focusing down, start playing with the aperture (or 'camera setting 8') to test depth-of-field. Those numbers correspond to distance charts on the lense and will affect how much is in/out of focus (based on where your focus point is). With an M8, you'll be able to see the effects immediately.

Keep trying, and don't get downhearted - it's an incredibly rewarding learning experience at the end...
 
The DNG will capture more information and I recommened you save in DNG and JPEG just so you have the DNGs when you learn to play with them later on down the line, even if you do nothing with them now. I have some photos I took early on in my usage of the camera that I shot in JPEG only and I wish to goodness I'd saved them in DNG as well.
 
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