lynnb
Veteran
I've just bought my first FSU, a Revue 3 which appears to be a rebadged Fed 3. It's got 53mm/2.8 lens which seems in good condition, the RF is aligned for vertical targets but objects are displaced vertically in the RF patch. Shutter speeds all seem to work OK and the curtains seem to be in good nick.
I have arrived at the conclusion by trial and error that shutter speeds are adjusted after the shutter has been cocked - is that correct? The red pointer arrow on top of the shutter dial points to the indicated speed after cocking, not before.
I am a little mystified by the ASA scale above the film counter mechanism as the camera doesn't have a light meter. There are also symbols for sunlight and incandescent light there. Is this just a reminder for what film speed you have loaded?
I've just loaded some film, but meanwhile any helpful comments will be much appreciated.
Regards,
Lynn
I have arrived at the conclusion by trial and error that shutter speeds are adjusted after the shutter has been cocked - is that correct? The red pointer arrow on top of the shutter dial points to the indicated speed after cocking, not before.
I am a little mystified by the ASA scale above the film counter mechanism as the camera doesn't have a light meter. There are also symbols for sunlight and incandescent light there. Is this just a reminder for what film speed you have loaded?
I've just loaded some film, but meanwhile any helpful comments will be much appreciated.
Regards,
Lynn
wolves3012
Veteran
Welcome to FSU ownership - trials and tribulations!
Yes, your Revue is a FED 3 (b). Don't adjust the shutter speed until you've cocked it - you run a serious risk of damaging the mechanisms if you do. Assuming it all works, you'll discover that the Industar 61 lens is sharp and contrasty - enjoy.
The ASA and other settings are purely for use as a reminder to you about what film you have in it. they don't "set" anything at all. Use or ignore, your choice.
Yes, your Revue is a FED 3 (b). Don't adjust the shutter speed until you've cocked it - you run a serious risk of damaging the mechanisms if you do. Assuming it all works, you'll discover that the Industar 61 lens is sharp and contrasty - enjoy.
The ASA and other settings are purely for use as a reminder to you about what film you have in it. they don't "set" anything at all. Use or ignore, your choice.
lynnb
Veteran
thank you wolves3012 - I had adjusted it a few times before cocking, but luckily it doesn't seem to have done any damage and it is working on all speeds - phew! First roll of expired Fujicolour 100 in the camera now... can't wait to see how the Industar draws.
At some stage I would like to attempt re-aligning the rangefinder. When I get around to that I'll try following your instructions in your sticky.
Regards,
At some stage I would like to attempt re-aligning the rangefinder. When I get around to that I'll try following your instructions in your sticky.
Regards,
konicaman
konicaman
Put a lens cap on when rewinding - some FSU camera have a slight light leak between shutter blades when the rewind lock is depressed - especially if you could not wind the last frame all the way. If you don't have a lens cap set the aperture to 16 and press the lens against something dark.
Camera looks to be in good condition - happy shooting!
Camera looks to be in good condition - happy shooting!
lynnb
Veteran
My first roll was some expired Fujicolour 100, and I'm really pleased with the results - here's the first scan on a V700 - not too bad for a $20 eBay purchase!
David Hughes
David Hughes
Nice one! Photo and camera but it's tempting me. If your ears start to burn you'll know I've spotted one on ebay and my wife has spotted me drooling...
BTW, I think that there's an English version of the instruction manual available but have never seen one. Luckily there's nothing much to learn and you seem to be managing very well.
Regards, David
BTW, I think that there's an English version of the instruction manual available but have never seen one. Luckily there's nothing much to learn and you seem to be managing very well.
Regards, David
greyelm
Malcolm
lynnb
Veteran
Thanks David, and thanks for the link to the manual greyelm!
Kind regards,
Kind regards,
wolves3012
Veteran
Glad no harm was done and it's working well. The problem with setting speeds uncocked does depend on what speeds you change between and how carelessly you ignore the extra resistance winding on!
Adjusting the RF isn't difficult, just tedious. Hopefully, the bezel will come off easily and it'll be straightforward.
lynnb
Veteran
I've put a few more photos from my first test roll in the gallery - here they are
paulfish4570
Veteran
You have a good copy there, Lynn. The I-61 is a dandy lens ...
lynnb
Veteran
Thanks Paul - I'm delighted with it! Here's a close focus test from the same roll:
Now I can't wait to play around with the rangefinder to fix the vertical alignment.
Cheers,
Now I can't wait to play around with the rangefinder to fix the vertical alignment.
Cheers,
paulfish4570
Veteran
That is the lens I keep on my FED-2(d). I would like to nab a Canon P or 7 in top shape, though, on which to mount it ...
Kiddo88
Newbie
Hi,
I am sorry for re-newing such an old topic but mine is pretty similar so did not wanna create a new one. Just got a camera my grandfather owned many years ago - FED3 (or Revue 3).
I have to say I never owned any analog camera so it is a pretty confusing device for me. Do I need a light meter along with my camera?
My grampa did not have one, he had all the numbers written on a piece of paper and would adjust the properties according to his notes. You think it makes sense?
Maybe you find my question goofy but what do the numbers on the lens mean? What do I adjust them for? There is also a flash light for this camera but it is really strong, do you ever use it?
Really, I am blushing thinking about my ignorace but I have to ask this question. Any help will be appreciated.
I am sorry for re-newing such an old topic but mine is pretty similar so did not wanna create a new one. Just got a camera my grandfather owned many years ago - FED3 (or Revue 3).
I have to say I never owned any analog camera so it is a pretty confusing device for me. Do I need a light meter along with my camera?
My grampa did not have one, he had all the numbers written on a piece of paper and would adjust the properties according to his notes. You think it makes sense?
Maybe you find my question goofy but what do the numbers on the lens mean? What do I adjust them for? There is also a flash light for this camera but it is really strong, do you ever use it?
Really, I am blushing thinking about my ignorace but I have to ask this question. Any help will be appreciated.
NorpA
Established
Sure it does, I can suggest this topic to replicate what your granpa had in his hands. New questions will arise, but in the same time you will start learning Photography. Enjoy!
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Welcome to the club.
Well, you might need a light meter or a chart or a calculator. The trouble is all of them give bland average sort of advice, even the meters and you have to adjust them a little. So a bit of experience comes in handy. Quickest way to gain that is a notebook and jotting down when you did for each shot and comparing with the prints.
Or stick to granny's box camera rule of the sun or light somewhere behind you for a while.
Incidental, you can pick up light meters cheaply but then you need to check them; perhaps, by comparing with a digital camera's meter. Weston make the classic meter; it's usually cheap on ebay, instructions can be found on the web and they are easily checked and repaired by a lot of people (for a price). If you go for one, then try and get it with the manual, case and incident light thing (a blob of white plastic).
You'll also find exposure guides in old book, on film maker's websites and on tabs at the end of the box the film was in, perhaps.
Any old book about photography will tell you most that you need to know and will be dirt cheap in a charity shop as "people don't use film any more"...
Go here and copy and print what you find; it's brilliant and explains a lot you need to know.
http://www.pbase.com/ericsorensen/image/52955921/original
Also you ought to be able to find an instruction manual for the camera on the www, too.
Have fun.
Regards, David
Welcome to the club.
Well, you might need a light meter or a chart or a calculator. The trouble is all of them give bland average sort of advice, even the meters and you have to adjust them a little. So a bit of experience comes in handy. Quickest way to gain that is a notebook and jotting down when you did for each shot and comparing with the prints.
Or stick to granny's box camera rule of the sun or light somewhere behind you for a while.
Incidental, you can pick up light meters cheaply but then you need to check them; perhaps, by comparing with a digital camera's meter. Weston make the classic meter; it's usually cheap on ebay, instructions can be found on the web and they are easily checked and repaired by a lot of people (for a price). If you go for one, then try and get it with the manual, case and incident light thing (a blob of white plastic).
You'll also find exposure guides in old book, on film maker's websites and on tabs at the end of the box the film was in, perhaps.
Any old book about photography will tell you most that you need to know and will be dirt cheap in a charity shop as "people don't use film any more"...
Go here and copy and print what you find; it's brilliant and explains a lot you need to know.
http://www.pbase.com/ericsorensen/image/52955921/original
Also you ought to be able to find an instruction manual for the camera on the www, too.
Have fun.
Regards, David
Kiddo88
Newbie
Thank you, NorpA and David Hughes, I appreciate your help.
I downloaded the charts Keith uploaded. Seems like they are more 'advanced' than my grandfather's 'mountains: 250 - 8; sea: 500 - 5,6' etc. The chart will be a good way to start revealing what this camera can do.
Think I will stick to the charts for now, even tho light meters seem to be really cheap. I just do not think I would do it right, I am too much of a newbie.
Thank you also for the exposure explanation, gonna be my necessary guide.
Now having your guidance on light and exposure times, I am up to buy a film, which, of course, raises some questions
- what ISO of the film do I need? Let's say I am gonna use the 1st film as a test to make some reasearch on what I can do with my FED. Boy, analogs are really charming and so intriguing but I did not know they were so demanding
Thank you again for your kind help.
I downloaded the charts Keith uploaded. Seems like they are more 'advanced' than my grandfather's 'mountains: 250 - 8; sea: 500 - 5,6' etc. The chart will be a good way to start revealing what this camera can do.
Think I will stick to the charts for now, even tho light meters seem to be really cheap. I just do not think I would do it right, I am too much of a newbie.
Thank you also for the exposure explanation, gonna be my necessary guide.
Now having your guidance on light and exposure times, I am up to buy a film, which, of course, raises some questions
- what ISO of the film do I need? Let's say I am gonna use the 1st film as a test to make some reasearch on what I can do with my FED. Boy, analogs are really charming and so intriguing but I did not know they were so demanding Thank you again for your kind help.
MartinP
Veteran
For the most practical results it would be a good idea to choose one of the C41 process films. That means they can be processed by any normal photographic processing outlet and saves time and cost over specialised black-and-white processing, if you choose a b+w film.
Next question is whether you would prefer colour or black-and-white film? If colour, then just go for supermarket own brand and buy a three-pack of ISO200 as something like that is very 'standard', and cheap. If black-and-white is your preference then there are two options (also a third, Fujifilm, version if you are in Japan, but that is actually the Ilford film under licence), one by Kodak and one by Ilford.
The Kodak has an orange filmbase, similar to normal colour-neg film and will be easy for a processing outlet to print but more difficult for you (if you get yourself an enlarger in the future), while the Ilford film has a clear(-ish) filmbase and can be printed by a lab or yourself. Probably availability will make the decisions for you. Don't forget that the films can all be found much more cheaply, and easily, online via the large webshops than in the high street.
So think what you want to do initially, step through the decision process, and the answer is easily found. Of course, when you have got used to the camera a little more then you will want to try 'higher quality' films of whatever variety, but the basic choices are a practical starting point.
Don't forget that from most processing outlets the cheap scans, which you can order with your developing and prints, are ok for web use, such as in this forum
Next question is whether you would prefer colour or black-and-white film? If colour, then just go for supermarket own brand and buy a three-pack of ISO200 as something like that is very 'standard', and cheap. If black-and-white is your preference then there are two options (also a third, Fujifilm, version if you are in Japan, but that is actually the Ilford film under licence), one by Kodak and one by Ilford.
The Kodak has an orange filmbase, similar to normal colour-neg film and will be easy for a processing outlet to print but more difficult for you (if you get yourself an enlarger in the future), while the Ilford film has a clear(-ish) filmbase and can be printed by a lab or yourself. Probably availability will make the decisions for you. Don't forget that the films can all be found much more cheaply, and easily, online via the large webshops than in the high street.
So think what you want to do initially, step through the decision process, and the answer is easily found. Of course, when you have got used to the camera a little more then you will want to try 'higher quality' films of whatever variety, but the basic choices are a practical starting point.
Don't forget that from most processing outlets the cheap scans, which you can order with your developing and prints, are ok for web use, such as in this forum
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I'll tag along with the film advice. Supermarkets here sell packs of three 200 ASA or ISO as I should say but old habits etc, etc. (Called C200 or some letter and 200.) Get 24 exposure film not 36 as 36 can take a while to fill up and you probably want to get started and, also it's a test roll.
Things called exposure calculators are often found on ebay and work very well, plus they give an idea of what is going on when deciding on the correct exposure. They look like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-J...y_VintagePhotoAccessories&hash=item4166e87a8c
Don't confuse them with the artificial light one which is for collectors to display only...
Regards, David
I'll tag along with the film advice. Supermarkets here sell packs of three 200 ASA or ISO as I should say but old habits etc, etc. (Called C200 or some letter and 200.) Get 24 exposure film not 36 as 36 can take a while to fill up and you probably want to get started and, also it's a test roll.
Things called exposure calculators are often found on ebay and work very well, plus they give an idea of what is going on when deciding on the correct exposure. They look like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-J...y_VintagePhotoAccessories&hash=item4166e87a8c
Don't confuse them with the artificial light one which is for collectors to display only...
Regards, David
Kiddo88
Newbie
I appreciate your kind and helpful replies. I will be buying ISO 200 film very soon in this case. Also read some more about FED online, even found a manual, that was way cool. Hope I can load a film into my rangefinder or ask a photographer in this little photo lab in my town to do it for me.
Besides all these technical details, there is another 'dimension' to the topic of photography in my case. I suffer from depression, taking pictures (with a digital cam so far) was a way to communicate a lot of things, to express a lot of amotions and to deal with what I have been going thru. There is some certain magic and charm in being able to say a lot thru pictures without opening your mouth. And, of course, it keeps me kind of active when illness wants to beat me up.
I can not afford to buy a digital camera so my friend from Mizzou gave me his old one, good old Sony Mavica. Jumbo awesome to be able to use it and I will always be thankful for that, he knows he helped my heart a lot.
Oops, i think I made quite an off-topic here, sorry.
God bless you for your help.
Besides all these technical details, there is another 'dimension' to the topic of photography in my case. I suffer from depression, taking pictures (with a digital cam so far) was a way to communicate a lot of things, to express a lot of amotions and to deal with what I have been going thru. There is some certain magic and charm in being able to say a lot thru pictures without opening your mouth. And, of course, it keeps me kind of active when illness wants to beat me up.
I can not afford to buy a digital camera so my friend from Mizzou gave me his old one, good old Sony Mavica. Jumbo awesome to be able to use it and I will always be thankful for that, he knows he helped my heart a lot.
Oops, i think I made quite an off-topic here, sorry.
God bless you for your help.