New page - An Introduction to the 50mm Summicron-M
- Thread starter Meleica
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Nick R.
Guest
Nice job, Dan, but can you explain one thing. When you state "viginetting 1.9 stops" what exactly do you mean?
Meleica
Well-known
Krosya
Konicaze
Meleica said:
Nice chart. It would be even better if you could include photos of the actual lenses with each description.
Meleica
Well-known
photos by dawn !
cmogi10
Bodhisattva
Nice work! Cleared up some of my questions.
Thanks
CM
Thanks
CM
Jerevan
Recycled User
Nice write-up! I probably never will be able to sample all of them and see for myself what they can do. I would love to see something similar for the Summicron 35 versions.
Meleica
Well-known
Page now updated with some photos, and some edits.
http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/summicron.htm
Dan
PS - I incorporated the SM collapsible into the text - thanks Brian
http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/summicron.htm
Dan
PS - I incorporated the SM collapsible into the text - thanks Brian
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visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
Thanks Dan,
A very good description.
A very good description.
colyn
ישו משיח
Brian Sweeney said:
Minolta used this glass in their 28mm f/2.8 SI lens or at least some of them. The yellowed glass affected photo quality as a result so I was wondering if the same happens with this lens?
Brian Sweeney said:
Will it make your tongue glow?? 😀 😀
Meleica
Well-known
Brian
Any comparison shots you'd like to do that I can put on the page or link to, would be great !
Dan
Any comparison shots you'd like to do that I can put on the page or link to, would be great !
Dan
Meleica
Well-known
Yellowing glass is from "radioactive" lens elements and their decay. This is not dangerous unless it is constantly kept close to your eyes. Many lenses from the 60's to 70's used these glass elements ( many with thorium elements ), including Leica, Canon ( 50/1.4, 35/2 ) and Pentax Super Takumars to name a few. To get rid of the yellow, follow this procedure:
you can "clear" yellowed radioactive glass by sitting them in direct sunlight for about a week. wrap the lens in aluminum foil to minimize heating, leaving the glass exposed, and set it on a windowsill in the sun. Word has it that if the problem was radioactive yellowing, it will be clear as new in a week.
PS - you should also be aware that almost all photo lenses up until the past few years are LEAD based and do pose a minor threat if crushed, and create dust. In fact, due to some international laws, lens makers are now making and advertising "lead free" lenses. Canon is very public about this.
Who knew photography was so dangerous :>
you can "clear" yellowed radioactive glass by sitting them in direct sunlight for about a week. wrap the lens in aluminum foil to minimize heating, leaving the glass exposed, and set it on a windowsill in the sun. Word has it that if the problem was radioactive yellowing, it will be clear as new in a week.
PS - you should also be aware that almost all photo lenses up until the past few years are LEAD based and do pose a minor threat if crushed, and create dust. In fact, due to some international laws, lens makers are now making and advertising "lead free" lenses. Canon is very public about this.
Who knew photography was so dangerous :>
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35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
good analysis. Thks much.
colyn
ישו משיח
Meleica said:
I tried this with my 28mm SI lens but the yellow did not go away.
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varjag
Guest
The lens should be placed outside, because window glass filters out UV part of spectrum (that does the healing). Most likely you are aware of that already, just that it might be the cause in some cases.colyn said:
colyn
ישו משיח
For years I owned a DR Summicron but never used the close focus. This lens had minor cleaning marks on both the front and rear elements. I ended up trading it for a ridged Summicron with no visible marks. Both were outstanding lens.
I also own a collapsible Summicron and always thought these were identical optically until I looked at your chart and realized the collapsible version while looking to be identical was in fact different in that it used smaller elements.
Optically this lens is nearly identical in performance to the ridged and DR except mine is very slightly lower in contrast.
I also own a collapsible Summicron and always thought these were identical optically until I looked at your chart and realized the collapsible version while looking to be identical was in fact different in that it used smaller elements.
Optically this lens is nearly identical in performance to the ridged and DR except mine is very slightly lower in contrast.
colyn
ישו משיח
varjag said:
During part of the day the lens was placed outside. While inside it was placed in an open window so it had maximum exposure but the yellowing remained.
I have a second SI lens that shows no signs of yellowing.
Graham Line
Well-known
Brian Sweeney said:
The right references aren't available at the moment, but it was my impression the factory didn't refer to the lenses as Summicron-M until the 1969 version appeared. They were simply listed as 'Summicron' up to that point.
I'm sure someone out there has the correct information.
Rico
Well-known
I think the "-M" suffix became imperative when R lenses appeared on the scene. Beyond the mount itself, the optical formulae were diverging.
