New Pixii 26MP

For people who would rather look at a picture than at trigonometric calculations (which is all of us, since this is a photography forum, right?) here's a graphic representation of my crude calculations above. Downloadable actual-size PDF version here.

pixii-friendly.png

Friendly warning: Before anyone gets too invested, literally or figuratively, in these numbers, keep in mind that I derived them by measuring strips of cut-up paper!
 
there are vented and conical hoods for the 50mm summicron f2. I have the newly issued hood from Light Lens Lab which also fits the 35 summaron. Extremely well made and match for Leica lenses. Perhaps the vented one is most appropriate for the Pixii?

Yes: I have one fitted to mine because I really dislike the built-in, slide out type of lens hood quite a lot.

G
 
Yes: I have one fitted to mine because I really dislike the built-in, slide out type of lens hood quite a lot.

G

The LLL non vented hood has an OD of 55 mm. Seems Pixii friendly according to Ranger9 estimations....for those who will ultimately own a Pixii.
 
Pixii software update

In case anyone is using this thread to follow along on general Pixii news (and this is about the only place to do that -- the major photo sites don't pay any attention to Pixii, and the manufacturer doesn't exactly bombard owners with communication either)...

Just before the New Year weekend, Pixii pushed out an over-the-air camera software update [4.11.29] and a firmware update [211231.] A lot of the changes are housekeeping items ("Improve USB charger detection logic and debug display") but there also are some updates that will make a noticeable difference to the user:

Sensor mode option: fast or fine. The change with the most user impact is a new "sensor mode" menu item, with choices of "fast" or "fine." No, setting the sensor mode to "fast" does NOT turn the Pixii into a Nikon Z9 or anything like that! In fact, in a quick test, it had almost no effect on the camera's overall throughput: If you press the shutter button once per second for one minute, you'll get 11 DNG images in "fine" mode and 12 in "fast" mode...not much difference. Either way, the camera responds quickly for the first six images; then the processor pipeline gets filled up, the "Busy" indicator appears, and you need to wait for the camera to catch up before you can add another picture to the pipeline (typically about 10 seconds.) So if you're the type of photographer who fires off 30 or 40 frames in quick succession and then picks the best one later, you'll still be frustrated by the Pixii and should stay away from it.

That's not how most of us use a rangefinder camera, though, and switching to "fast" does something many of us will find useful: it improves shot-to-shot speed. In other words, if your model gives you a great expression, and then immediately gives you a better one... or if your dog does something cute, and then immediately does something cuter... being in "fast" mode gives you a better chance of catching that second shot. In terms of pace (for you classic-camera fans) it's about like switching from a knob-wind camera to one with an advance lever. You're not going to burn through a whole roll either way, but the lever lets you be ready for a surprise follow-up shot just that much quicker.

To put numbers on it: Remember that you're going to light the "Busy" indicator after six shots no matter which mode you're in. But in "fine" mode, you'll hit that six-shot barrier after about five seconds of clicking as fast as you can; in "fast" mode, you'll hit it in about three seconds. In other words, shot-to-shot speed in "fast" mode is about 40% faster. You could even hold the shutter button down and shoot a six-frame burst at about 2fps, if you wanted to... but most of us wouldn't want to, and that's not the point. What the new "fast" option does for me is make me feel better about using the Pixii in spontaneous situations -- more confident that I'll be ready for that second great expression or cute dog trick.

Potential kicker: One thing I haven't figured out yet, since I just downloaded the update today, is what you're giving up -- if anything -- when you switch from "fine" to "fast." Does the camera reduce bit depth, or use less-precise calculations, or cut down on error checks, or simply allocate more processor power to the sensor-readout task? I'll need to do some testing to find out if there's really any impact on image quality.

Improved power management: Aside from that dratted "Busy" indicator, the thing that worried me most at first about using the Pixii seriously was poor battery life. On my very first attempt at a long shoot, the battery warning came on after only about 45 minutes, and that seemed like a potential deal-breaker.

I quickly learned, though, that battery life could be improved a lot by making one change: turning off Wi-Fi, except when you actually need it. While you're shooting, you usually don't need it. You can use the Pixii app to change camera settings and make a quick check of low-res preview images without needing Wi-Fi... those functions run over Bluetooth, which is a lot more energy efficient. The only functions that require Wi-Fi are downloading high-res previews or full-size DNG images, and making software updates... and those are things I usually can defer until I'm camped out in a café or have gotten home. With this change, plus buying an extra battery, I now feel free to wander around for hours with the Pixii without worrying about running out of battery power.

Still, the updates add some tweaks to squeeze out more power if you need it. The "suspend" [sleep] timer, previously fixed at 120 sec., now can be set to put the camera to sleep in as little as 30 sec. (to save more battery power) or as much as 180 sec. (to keep the camera awake during extended shooting sessions.) And one of the firmware changes supposedly provides "lower power usage prior to camera sleep/power-off"... they don't say how, but lower power is better, right?

Auto-lock options: I've noted before that the Pixii is almost totally a software-defined camera. One example is the lock that keeps the exposure in "Auto" mode when you set the shutter wheel to the A position. Lots of cameras have a lock for this, usually some kind of mechanical catch, but on the Pixii it's a "soft lock." If you turn the wheel off A by accident, the camera stays in A mode and the display shows a warning. To unlock it, you need to half-press the shutter release and then turn the wheel off A.

This seemed like a good idea at first, but as I used the camera I found it more and more of a nuisance. It was too time-consuming and fiddly if I didn't like an auto exposure recommendation and wanted to take control right now. Apparently other Pixii owners felt the same, because now there's a preference item that lets you turn the auto-lock on (same way it worked originally) or off, with "off" now the default.​


There are other changes too, such as a top ISO setting of 25,600 instead of 12,800 (haven't tried it yet) and an improved auto-white-balance routine that disregards poorly-exposed frames. (The promised custom white balance feature didn't make it into this software release; fingers crossed for the next one!) Some menu-item names and behind-the-scenes routines have been tweaked too.


IMO, it all adds up to a package with no game-changer features, but several welcome updates that add real value for the user... exactly what I'm hoping we can expect routinely from a "camera" that exists mostly as lines of programming code.
 
Sounds good!

My thoughts keep circling back around to this camera. I just might have to spring for one ... I'll sell some of my excess stuff to fund it.
The gods know I have a minor tonne of excess stuff I can stand to do without... ;-)

G
 
Sounds good!

My thoughts keep circling back around to this camera. I just might have to spring for one ... I'll sell some of my excess stuff to fund it.
The gods know I have a minor tonne of excess stuff I can stand to do without... ;-)

G

One thing you (or anyone) should consider is how much value you place on refinement. For example, the Pixii's range/viewfinder is effective, but less clear and comfortable than that of a Leica M, Bessa R3, or Epson R-D1. It's particularly important to keep your eye centered behind the Pixii's eyepiece, to avoid a blurry rangefinder patch and flares in the corners of the framelines; you don't see those problems on the more-highly-refined cameras. The two buttons and two input wheels that control everything on the Pixii feel like high-quality electronic parts (which they are) but don't have the sensuous Rhinemaidens-lovingly-polished-this-with-their-hair tactility you might associate with an expensive camera.

In other words, in terms of the look and feel you might expect from a $3000+ luxury item, the Pixii is many cuts above a prototype or Kickstarter project -- but it's not a Hermés-edition Leica, either. If that's your ideal, you'll probably consider the Pixii shockingly over-priced and under-done. On the other hand, if your standard for quality gear is something like a '70s-vintage Hewlett-Packard lab instrument, the Pixii will make a lot more sense to you. Just sayin'...
 
One thing you (or anyone) should consider is how much value you place on refinement. For example, the Pixii's range/viewfinder is effective, but less clear and comfortable than that of a Leica M, Bessa R3, or Epson R-D1. It's particularly important to keep your eye centered behind the Pixii's eyepiece, to avoid a blurry rangefinder patch and flares in the corners of the framelines; you don't see those problems on the more-highly-refined cameras. The two buttons and two input wheels that control everything on the Pixii feel like high-quality electronic parts (which they are) but don't have the sensuous Rhinemaidens-lovingly-polished-this-with-their-hair tactility you might associate with an expensive camera.

In other words, in terms of the look and feel you might expect from a $3000+ luxury item, the Pixii is many cuts above a prototype or Kickstarter project -- but it's not a Hermés-edition Leica, either. If that's your ideal, you'll probably consider the Pixii shockingly over-priced and under-done. On the other hand, if your standard for quality gear is something like a '70s-vintage Hewlett-Packard lab instrument, the Pixii will make a lot more sense to you. Just sayin'...

1970s HP Lab Instrument feels fine to me. I'm don't get all wet over "sensuous Corinthian leather camera wraps" ...
Actually, the camera feel sounds much like my Fuji GS645S Wide 60. Which is fine. :cool:

G
 
1970s HP Lab Instrument feels fine to me. I'm don't get all wet over "sensuous Corinthian leather camera wraps" ...
Actually, the camera feel sounds much like my Fuji GS645S Wide 60. Which is fine. :cool:

G

Hear, hear! I just want to be careful not to make people think I'm over-touting what I have chosen to anthropomorphise as my “temperamental French girlfriend” of a camera. A lot of people who enjoy the fine-machinery feel of classic film cameras will find the Pixii decidedly lacking… and since this isn't a camera you can try out at your local dealer, or buy from Amazon and then send back if you don't like it, I want to make sure they know what they'd be getting into.
 
FYI: I've just posted an updated Pixii review on my YouTube channel. This one concentrates on changes introduced by the December software update: "sensor fast" mode, defeatable auto lock, and minor tweaks to improve battery life.

 
Hey! It turns out that Pixii SAS has a blog (why don't they tell us these things?!) and the latest entry has a lot of technical detail about the recent software update (including some info that corrects errors I made in my video above.) Read it here: https://www.pixii.fr/blog/new-pixii-camera-software-update

There's some interesting technical detail about the new "sensor mode" feature, which lets you switch the sensor between "fast" and "fine" settings (with "fast" being the default.) The "fine" mode apparently runs the analog-digital converter (ADC) at higher precision, potentially allowing extraction of more fine details... although I assume this increases the risk of motion artifacts, since the sensor is being sampled more slowly. They suggest sticking to "fast" mode except for landscape or studio photography.

Speaking of fast mode, Pixii indulges in a bit of flex that's likely to be controversial for people who believe everything they see on DPReview TV:

Fast mode is the standard operating mode for the sensor. This is the default mode for the camera since its release in September. It drives the sensor at 30FPS+ to avoid any rolling shutter artefacts if taking pictures with moving features.

We are talking about 30FPS+ in RAW mode, not JPEG. By comparison the recent Nikon Z9 is limited to 22FPS+ in RAW mode, and older cameras like Hasselblad or Sigma FP are even slower. Pixii achieves this by using a very fast SDRAM and FPGA to let the sensor operate at the maximum of its performance. This is very similar to what is achieved by stacked BSI sensors.

Pixii has been pioneering a camera design without mechanical shutter since the first model announced in 2018. The New Pixii Camera model improves on this design. it is quite funny now to see the industry heavy-weights also going in the same direction…

Cheeky, no? But I like to see that in a small, feisty camera company...
 
I just got the Pixii and I am getting used to it. I noticed that the Fast mode generates 12-bit DNGs, while Fine mode generates 16-bit DNGs (!!!). I am looking forward to shooting with it and testing it.
 
I just got the Pixii and I am getting used to it. I noticed that the Fast mode generates 12-bit DNGs, while Fine mode generates 16-bit DNGs (!!!). I am looking forward to shooting with it and testing it.

Interesting, but how are you determining this? Update: Never mind, I found out. I downloaded the demo version of RawDigger and used its EXIF button to display each file's EXIF data. This does show 16-bit depth for DNG files saved in "fine" mode and 12-bit depth for DNG files saved in "fast" mode.

When I asked Pixii Support about the two sensor modes after they appeared in the December software update, I was told that the only difference between Fine and Fast was that in Fine mode, higher-precision calculation was used in the analog-to-digital converter stage, and that this higher precision might be able to recover more fine detail in some subjects such as landscapes. Maybe the higher-precision mode uses 16-bit variables and that's why it generates 16-bit files?

The downside, Pixii said, was that Fine slows down sensor readout, which I inferred to mean there might be more risk of motion distortion in photos of fast-moving objects. Presumably that would explain why Pixii uses Fast as the default mode and recommends using Fine only for static subjects such as landscapes and studio photos.

When I made test files in Fine and Fast and looked at them in Lightroom, I couldn't see any difference either in the images or their histograms. But maybe a difference would show up in more demanding subjects with greater dynamic range. It would be interesting to see someone produce results that show a visible difference!
 
Another reason I'm liking the Pixii concept...

After having watched the way the package containing my newly-arrived Pixii was thrown around by the Shipping Company That Shall Not Be Named Because Lawyers when I had gone to pick it up, I had wondered if the rough handling might have thrown the rangefinder out of whack.

I didn't have any problems at first, because I started out using it with a couple of 7Artisans lenses I already had (the 35/2 M and the 50/1.1 M.) You've probably heard about how 7Artisans designs its M lenses with a user-adjustable rangefinder coupling cam (they include instructions, a calibration chart, and the tool you need) and it's common practice to check before using these lenses on a new camera even though they DO come pre-adjusted from the factory. So the first thing I did once I got the Pixii unpacked and charged was put these two lenses on it, check them with the chart, and tweak their cams as necessary. This worked fine and I got good results with them on the Pixii right away.

However, I also wanted to try some of my Canon and Cosina Voigtlander screw-mount lenses using screw-to-M adapters, and with these my results were lackluster. I tried to tell myself that maybe my adapters were "off" or that the lenses weren't digital-friendly (although they worked fine on my Epson R-D 1) but after checking carefully I discovered that none of them would line up the rangefinder patch at infinity, even though the same lenses lined up fine on the R-D 1 and my Bessa R3M, not to mention my various screw-mount rangefinder Canons.

So I conceded my Pixii's rangefinder was out of whack and emailed Pixii SAS asking what I should do. I got an email back from Pixii's product engineer, Melric Artus. He asked for a few specifics about what I was seeing, and also asked if I had ever adjusted the rangefinder on another brand of camera. I sent him some sample images and told him I had adjusted the rangefinders on my Canon P and Canon 7s with good results, and waited to see what would happen.

A couple of days later, Melric sent me a PDF file containing two pages from what appears to be a professionally designed and illustrated document titled "Pixii Customer Service", along with a similar document containing photos instead of illustrations. These pages contained instructions for adjusting the horizontal alignment of the rangefinder.

"You can try to do it by yourself," Melric's email assured me, "there is quite no way to damage your PIXII. If you don't feel like doing it alone come back to me with all the questions you have in mind. I'll try to answer it and if it's not enough, we can try to have a video call."

As it turned out, no such intervention was needed. The instructions were very clear and the process was easy. After removing the accessory shoe, I located the adjustments shown on the diagram. They were small and were down in a recess (Melric suggested a flashlight would be helpful, and he was right) but they were all by themselves and there wasn't anything near them that I would be likely to booger up by mistake. The adjustment process consisted of loosening a locking screw by about 1/4 turn, turning the adjusting screw until the RF image aligned at infinity, then tightening the locking screw again. (Clever design feature: The locking screw has a cross-point head and the adjusting screw has a regular slotted head, so there's no way to get them mixed up. It's almost as if they wanted to make their camera easy to service!)

If the camera were on a sturdy tripod, you probably could do the adjustment in one step while viewing through the finder, but my tripod was at work so I resorted to turning the screw a tiny bit, checking through the viewfinder, and repeating until I had it dialed in. The whole thing took about five minutes, and now all my screw-mount lenses focus correctly. (I'll still need to re-set the cams on the 7Artisans lenses back to their normal position, but that's easy to do.)

Pixii SAS had assured me that I could return the camera for servicing if I wanted, but I really appreciated the fact that they also offered me a do-it-yourself option. It was a quick fix and a big improvement over the time and complication I would have encountered if I had had to ship it back to France!

Entertaining mental exercise: Imagine yourself emailing another rangefinder camera company -- let's just randomly call it "Company L" -- to say your rangefinder seems to be out of calibration and it would take a long time to send it in for service, so would they mind telling you how to adjust it yourself? Now imagine getting an email back from one of Company L's engineers saying, "Sure, here's how to do it, and if you run into problems we can have a video chat..."
 
That's wonderful customer service! And lovely photos too! :D
I'm waiting to see if there's any money left in the pot once I'm done with the work on my other toy... ;)

G
 
That's wonderful customer service! And lovely photos too! :D
I'm waiting to see if there's any money left in the pot once I'm done with the work on my other toy... ;)

Are you ever actually DONE with the work on any Italian car? :-D (Asking for a friend who once briefly owned a Fiat Abarth 1000...)
 
Are you ever actually DONE with the work on any Italian car? :-D (Asking for a friend who once briefly owned a Fiat Abarth 1000...)

Like all Art, being "done" means the artist has abandoned it. :D

Done in this case is a little less metaphysical ... All of the major restoration issues are funded and the work on them is completed/paid for. The interior refurbishment work is the big lump o cash now underway... completely rebuilding the seats, replacing the carpeting, repairing age damage on the dash surround and such. Once that's done, the rest is penny ante details, mostly bolt-on things like better shock absorbers, new gas cap, replacing the crufty/ruined rear view mirror, etc.

The rest is just regular car maintenance. Much of my restoration/upgrade mechanical work has been done with the spirit of minimizing old Italian car drama and unexpected mechanical repair. How effective that will be is up to the gods of mechanical mischief... I pay them the appropriate obeisance to keep them mollified as a matter of course. I managed to reach this state with my last Alfa Romeo Spider once upon a time.


1979 Alfa Romeo Spider, "FrankenSpider"

It's much like dealing with quirky old cameras. ;)

G
 
Oh yes: I noticed in all the ballyhoo about the new Leica M11 that it has 64G of built-in storage now. Made me laugh ... I have had a 64G card in my CL since I bought it, and I think I've only actually filled the card more than 50%, or needed a second card for a day's shooting, once or twice since I've owned (since summer of 2018), and I've been shooting with my Light L16 after completely restoring it to factory settings with clean 256G storage since 2019 ... it's barely up to one-eighth full.

If I buy the Pixii with 64G storage, I am completely confident that for my photographic use I'll never miss not having a storage card. And if I bought an M11, I'd likely forget to ever put one in. :)

G
 
Interesting, but how are you determining this? Update: Never mind, I found out. I downloaded the demo version of RawDigger and used its EXIF button to display each file's EXIF data. This does show 16-bit depth for DNG files saved in "fine" mode and 12-bit depth for DNG files saved in "fast" mode.

When I asked Pixii Support about the two sensor modes after they appeared in the December software update, I was told that the only difference between Fine and Fast was that in Fine mode, higher-precision calculation was used in the analog-to-digital converter stage, and that this higher precision might be able to recover more fine detail in some subjects such as landscapes. Maybe the higher-precision mode uses 16-bit variables and that's why it generates 16-bit files?

The downside, Pixii said, was that Fine slows down sensor readout, which I inferred to mean there might be more risk of motion distortion in photos of fast-moving objects. Presumably that would explain why Pixii uses Fast as the default mode and recommends using Fine only for static subjects such as landscapes and studio photos.

When I made test files in Fine and Fast and looked at them in Lightroom, I couldn't see any difference either in the images or their histograms. But maybe a difference would show up in more demanding subjects with greater dynamic range. It would be interesting to see someone produce results that show a visible difference!

I am also using RawDigger and looking at the maximum RGB values for RGB (2^12 vs. 2^16).

I used Jim Kasson's method to determine the readout speed:
Fast: 33ms
Fine: 150ms

Comparisons of electronic shutters:
a7rIV: 100ms (14-bit)
Z9: 4ms
Z6: 26ms (12-bit)
X1D: 300ms
 
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