JeffGreene
(@)^(@)
I recently acquired a Rolleiflex Automat MX-EVS (Serial #171XXXX, 1954). I shot a test roll and apparently have a light leak. Please excuse me if I've misdiagnosed the issue. In some cases the problem presents as a light bar between frames and in this case there seems to be a vertical band which may be the result of flare, but may also be attributed to shutter issues. The shutter jams at 1/4 and slower. I'm considering sending it out to Krikor Maralian for a CLA, but was interested in what the rolleiflex experts on the forum thought. Here's a sample image from the test roll. Please ignore the dust. The vertical band is consistent throughout. Is this camera salvageable?
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VictorM.
Well-known
An MX-EVS is one of the best Rolleiflexes made. Mine,which I stupidly sold, was very worn but was the equal of the 3.5E I now use. I'd say it's worth a complete cla, but Krikor should have the final word on that.
momus1
Established
It looks like flare doesn't it? Until you look at the right hand side of the photo. Definite light leak somewhere.
I also stupidly sold my MX-EVS w/ Xenar, and haunt the auctions looking for a possible replacement. I have a 2.8D w/ a better Xenotar lens, and it's a lot easier to focus, but the one roll I shot w/ the Xenar was pretty darn good! Congratulations on your new camera.
I shot this w/ the now departed MX-EVS. Film was Tri-X.
I also stupidly sold my MX-EVS w/ Xenar, and haunt the auctions looking for a possible replacement. I have a 2.8D w/ a better Xenotar lens, and it's a lot easier to focus, but the one roll I shot w/ the Xenar was pretty darn good! Congratulations on your new camera.
I shot this w/ the now departed MX-EVS. Film was Tri-X.
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jmcd
Well-known
Is it possible that the edge of the roll was fogged while loading? The fogging pattern does have a set of hard edges to it, deepest in the middle of the frame.
Also, I wonder if your back door fits evenly without any obvious gaps, and if it is without dents.
The overall shot has quite a bit of flair. Which lens do you have? A lens hood helps much, but a clean Xenar or Tessar is not prone to flair.
I agree that properly tuned this is a great camera—I have two.
At any rate with the shutter sticking at the slow speeds it has been a long time since this camera has seen service. I vote to send it to a Rollei expert to get it tuned up.
Also, I wonder if your back door fits evenly without any obvious gaps, and if it is without dents.
The overall shot has quite a bit of flair. Which lens do you have? A lens hood helps much, but a clean Xenar or Tessar is not prone to flair.
I agree that properly tuned this is a great camera—I have two.
At any rate with the shutter sticking at the slow speeds it has been a long time since this camera has seen service. I vote to send it to a Rollei expert to get it tuned up.
JeffGreene
(@)^(@)
Thank you all...
Thank you all...
It does look like flare. I didn't use a hood. But the issue is whether it is shutter-related flare or a light leak somewhere in the body. There are no dents in the back door that I can see. I will send it to Krikor and go with his work. He transformed my SL66. This is my first rolleiflex. Thanks again.
Thank you all...
It does look like flare. I didn't use a hood. But the issue is whether it is shutter-related flare or a light leak somewhere in the body. There are no dents in the back door that I can see. I will send it to Krikor and go with his work. He transformed my SL66. This is my first rolleiflex. Thanks again.
raid
Dad Photographer
I may have a similar problem with my MX-EVS. I got a roll back last week, and there is flare on the right side of the images. I think, my camera has a Tessar. It looks very nice cosmetically.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
I've seen reports that ham-fistedness in attaching a tripod to the base of the Rolleiflex can warp the door (sometimes permanently) and allow light leaks. My recently acquired Planar 2.8 E2 doesn't have this problem but I've bought a Rolleifix mounting accessory to ensure it doesn't happen. I'd also vote for a full CLA with attention paid to the door fit and light seal condition.
JeffGreene
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Leigh, Raid et al:
I spoke to Ken Ruth of Photography at BaldMtn, also a well-know rollei repair person and he says it could all be shutter related. Who knows? I will be sending it to Krikor after May 13th when he returns.
I spoke to Ken Ruth of Photography at BaldMtn, also a well-know rollei repair person and he says it could all be shutter related. Who knows? I will be sending it to Krikor after May 13th when he returns.
raid
Dad Photographer
Hi Jeff,
I will wait with any repairs until I hear back from you regarding Krikor's work on your camera.
Thanks.
Evanjoe610
Established
I recently bought a Rolleiflex MX-EVS Type 1 with the Schneider Xenar lens. The camera will be going to Krikor for a CLA. At the same time, I would love to keep my investment cost down and was exploring the focusing screen issue. Has anyone here installed the Richard Oleson screens into their camera? How is it?
Krikor prefers either the Rolleiflex or the Maxwell screens. He suggested for the time being, I use the camera as is, only diference would bee that he will clean the mirror, wwhich should help. He will install & re-adjust the Oleson screen and I can buy into a Rollei or Maxwell screen when funds are more available.
Evan
Krikor prefers either the Rolleiflex or the Maxwell screens. He suggested for the time being, I use the camera as is, only diference would bee that he will clean the mirror, wwhich should help. He will install & re-adjust the Oleson screen and I can buy into a Rollei or Maxwell screen when funds are more available.
Evan
laurentb
Established
My MX-EVS was fitted with a Mamiya RB67 screen, and is a delight to use, this could be an option also ?
Evanjoe610
Established
Laurentb,
I believe that it is a Mamiya screen that is being sold by Rick. I guess that your screen is a split image with grid?
I believe that it is a Mamiya screen that is being sold by Rick. I guess that your screen is a split image with grid?
ZeissFan
Veteran
I wouldn't think it would be the shutter, as leaf shutters open from the center in an ever-expanding circle and then close in the same manner. There is no left-to-right or top-to-bottom action.
I would try a second roll of film to rule out the film as a possible cause. Ensure that it's wound reasonably tight (not insanely tight) before putting it into the camera. A changing bag is best for this.
I've found some of the off-brand films to be rolled a bit loosely.
If possible, I would select a different brand of film.
I would try a second roll of film to rule out the film as a possible cause. Ensure that it's wound reasonably tight (not insanely tight) before putting it into the camera. A changing bag is best for this.
I've found some of the off-brand films to be rolled a bit loosely.
If possible, I would select a different brand of film.
JeffGreene
(@)^(@)
Sorry for the delay in replying, but I am still learning my way around the camera. The shutter was the issue. Here is one of the first images that I'm ok with.
Kodak Ektar
Kodak Ektar