New to Developing Film : Need input

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mikechambers

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I have been shooting for about a year, and shoot film for the last 6 months. I want to start developing my own black and white film, and had a couple of questions that I was hoping I could get some help with. I apologize in advance if this is not the correct forum for this.

I shoot mostly with Ilford 400 Delta Pro black and white.

First, here are the materials I am planning to get:

Developer : Ilford ILFOTec DD-X
Fixer : Ilford Rapid Fixer
Stop Bath : ILFO Stop
Wetting Agent (Any suggestions?)
Developing Tank (Any suggestions for 35mm and 120)
Film Clips x 4
Mixing Cup / Measuring Cylinder (which size?)
Thermometer
Stirring Rod
Squeegee
Film Canister opener (is this required?)
Sleeve for storing negatives

Am I missing anything vital?

Any suggestions for a wetting agent and developing tank?

Would Ilford Ilfosol 3 Liquid Film Developer work as well as Ilford ILFOTec DD-X? (the DD-X costs twice as much).

What size measuring cup should I get?

What is the best way to store negatives? (I will be scanning them). If it is sheets, is there a particular size I should get? 6 x 6?

Also, for the reels, would you recommend metal reels, or plastic one? I have read the plastic ones are easier to load / spool.

Finally, any suggestions on where to buy this stuff (materials and chemicals) online or in person? (I am in San Francisco, CA). (Im also on a tight budget).

Thanks for any help and input...

mike
 
Last edited:
Hi Mike,

Wetting Agent: Distilled water (dump the squeegee!)

Film cannister opener: Bottle opener

Developing tank: Paterson (2/4 film reel tank)

Mixing Cups: 1000ml, 100ml, syringe

Negative storage: Binders + 35mm /120 VUE ALL NEG sleves

You are missing: water filter, 3-1L. brown polyethylene bottles, kitchen towel, funnel, scissors, Kitchen Timer, Sharpie ...

Ilfosol 3 is for older films (fp4 Plus, ...).


Regards,
Robert
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mikechambers said:
I have been shooting for about a year, and shoot film for the last 6 months. I want to start developing my own black and white film, and had a couple of questions that I was hoping I could get some help with. I apologize in advance if this is not the correct forum for this.

I shoot mostly with Ilford 400 Delta Pro black and white.

First, here are the materials I am planning to get:

Developer : Ilford ILFOTec DD-X
Fixer : Ilford Rapid Fixer
Stop Bath : ILFO Stop
Wetting Agent (Any suggestions?)
Developing Tank (Any suggestions for 35mm and 120)
Film Clips x 4
Mixing Cup / Measuring Cylinder (which size?)
Thermometer
Stirring Rod
Squeegee
Film Canister opener (is this required?)
Sleeve for storing negatives

Am I missing anything vital?

Any suggestions for a wetting agent and developing tank?

What size measuring cup should I get?

What is the best way to store negatives? (I will be scanning them). If it is sheets, is there a particular size I should get? 6 x 6?

Also, for the reels, would you recommend metal reels, or plastic one? I have read the plastic ones are easier to load / spool.

Finally, any suggestions on where to buy this stuff (materials and chemicals) online or in person? (I am in San Francisco, CA). (Im also on a tight budget).

Thanks for any help and input...

mike
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Use Kodak Photoflo as wetting agent. A large bottle will last a long long long long time.

Some of us here (where Kodak Photoflo has not been seen in a long long long long time) have had success in using plain liquid dishwashing detergent, diluted at 1/8 tsp per litre of water. The plain kind - mildly scented, and no skin-care or grease cutting additives- is used. No water marks on the negatives. So-treated negatives processed 10 years ago show no deterioration, but with a slight whiff of lemon.

The tanks/reels you quoted are the same, likely from the same EU maker but badge-engineered.
 
So, if I use a wetting agent, do I still need a squeege?

And if I use distilled water instead of a wetting agent, do I do the final rinse with all distilled water?

thanks...

mike
 
I use distilled water (no wetting agent) as my final rinse and I don't use a squeege. No water marks.
Don't touch the wet film emulsion!


mikechambers said:
So, if I use a wetting agent, do I still need a squeege?

And if I use distilled water instead of a wetting agent, do I do the final rinse with all distilled water?

thanks...

mike
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
FotoFlo is a simple standard.
No squeegee necessary. I bought one but never use it. After you pull the reel from the FotoFlo, you just use your (clean) fingers as a squeegee to get rid of the liquid. You don't try to 'dry' the negs with your fingers, just slide the film between your fingers to remove Most of the wetness.

Get more than 4 film clips. I usually hang TWO on the bottom of each neg. I also use the clip type to secure the top. I develop in the bathroom and hang film from the shower rod. I tape gaffer's tape to the rod, and then clip the film to the tape ends, as the wet film won't stick to tape.

I recently acquired a Photoflex changing tent. Much more convenient than when i had to wait until sundown, then shutter the blinds, turn off all lights+tv in my main room, and then stuff a towel under the bathroom door just to load film. With the changing bag, i can load film reels while watching tv. A nice thing, as sometimes (with 120 film), it can take me a while.

Here's a tip:
When i rewind film from the camera, i leave the leader out. When i'm about to process it, i cut the leader edge square, while the film's still in the canister. Before i put the stuff into the changing tent, i feed the leader end and an inch or two into the reel so i don't have to fumble with it blind, in the bag. Saves me some time/effort. Wish i could do that with 120....

I have the Patterson tank and plastic reels. Nice system. But, i think i'm going to get some steel Hewes reels, as it would be nice to be able to keep developing more film without having to wait for the plastic reels to dry.
 
Film drying

Close the bathroom door and let the shower/ bathtub's hot water run for 5 min. Wait 15 min., for the dust to settle, before hanging your film to dry from the shower bar. Let it air dry for 8 hours (don't open the bathroom door during that time). Voila! dust free negs.
 
mikechambers said:
So, if I use a wetting agent, do I still need a squeege?
mike
Click to expand...

I use Photo Flo and a Yankee SPONGE squeegee (no rubber)...
pour your Photo Flo after your 30s soak, in a 1L beaker and put the Yankee Sponge Squeegee in the the Photo Flo, and make sure the whole sponge absorbs Photo Flo Then squeeze out MOST of it.... Then while you have the film hanging by the top clip, run the sponge squeegee down the film [once]...
Hook the bottom clip on, and in about 1 hour, you can cut and scan the negatives... Following this routine will not scratch your negatives at all.... 1 word of caution...DO NOT use a heavy hand with pressure on the Yankee Sponge Squeegee.. Just enough to have good contact.,

DO NOT RINSE OUT THE PHOTO FLO FROM THE SPONGE... Just squeeze out any excess back in the beaker, and let it dry on top of your 1L beaker, balanced, after you pout it back in the "Used Photo Flo" container.
 
Last edited:
rlouzan said:
Film drying

Close the bathroom door and let the shower/ bathtub's hot water run for 5 min. Wait 15 min., for the dust to settle, before hanging your film to dry from the shower bar. Let it air dry for 8 hours (don't open the bathroom door during that time). Voila! dust free negs.
Click to expand...

If you use Photo Flo, the film will be bone dry in about an hour....
And, getting bathroom humid is a must...

Also, turn off your Central Heat/Air, so you have NO Air flow in the bathroom to stir up dust.
 
mikechambers said:
I have been shooting for about a year, and shoot film for the last 6 months. I want to start developing my own black and white film, and had a couple of questions that I was hoping I could get some help with. I apologize in advance if this is not the correct forum for this.

I shoot mostly with Ilford 400 Delta Pro black and white.

First, here are the materials I am planning to get:

Developer : Ilford ILFOTec DD-X
Fixer : Ilford Rapid Fixer
Stop Bath : ILFO Stop
Wetting Agent (Any suggestions?)
Developing Tank (Any suggestions for 35mm and 120)
Film Clips x 4
Mixing Cup / Measuring Cylinder (which size?)
Thermometer
Stirring Rod
Squeegee
Film Canister opener (is this required?)
Sleeve for storing negatives

Am I missing anything vital?

Any suggestions for a wetting agent and developing tank?

Would Ilford Ilfosol 3 Liquid Film Developer work as well as Ilford ILFOTec DD-X? (the DD-X costs twice as much).

What size measuring cup should I get?

What is the best way to store negatives? (I will be scanning them). If it is sheets, is there a particular size I should get? 6 x 6?

Also, for the reels, would you recommend metal reels, or plastic one? I have read the plastic ones are easier to load / spool.

Finally, any suggestions on where to buy this stuff (materials and chemicals) online or in person? (I am in San Francisco, CA). (Im also on a tight budget).

Thanks for any help and input...

mike
Click to expand...

Congrats on tackling the world of film developing. The process is something that is easily mastered, but like learning to drive, try and avoid and bad habits now and try to be as consistent as possible with your process. If you don't you will pay for it with problem negatives.

From my own 12 months of film developing, I would offer the following advice/ tips:

- Be as consistent as possible with regard to your film process. A consistent process will allow you to identify any errant variables, should you have problems with your negs.

- Sacrifice an unexposed roll of film and practice loading it onto your reels again and again in daylight. When you feel you have it down, then practice doing it in the dark/ in the changing bag. When you feel you have it down, then is the time to brave a real roll

- Your choice of chemicals is good. DDX is a great developer, but pricey. Try to stick with one developer, until you know why you would want to change developer.

- Stop bath and fixer can be re-used, so re-bottle after use, and store away for your next developing session

- Film clips not really necessary, in my opinion, as they are too pricey for the function they provide. I prefer to use clothes pegs to weight down the end of my film when it it's hanging to dry

- Paterson tanks ok, but be prepared for the eventuality it may leak when inverted. I do not rate Paterson production/ design quality, but then again it's ok.

- Paterson film reels tend to be overpriced, with film guards (to catch the film when loading) that are too small. Most people suffer through them and adjust, but I prefer cheaper reels which have larger film guards, which I find much easier to load, especially 120

- Never use plastic reels that are not 100% bone dry. Many film loading problems originate here

- Mixing cups - two words: kitchen store

- Film canister opener not required - a bottle opener will do the job fine

- Sleeves - stay away from glassine sleeves, which will require you to remove the negatives from the sleeve to get a proper look at them/ when you want to make a contact sheet. Transparent sleeves, such as those by Printfile, I woud heartily recommend

- Re: developer, I believe Delta negs in Xtol are truly exceptional. Xtol is Kodak's modern wonder developer, akin to Ilfords DDX, but like most Kodak developers it needs to be mixed up from powder. It is a good deal cheaper than DDX, and worth investigating, if you have not settled on a developer yet

- Freestyle photo may be a good place to start your search. If budget is truly a concern, Freestyle also sell re-badged 35mm TriX and PlusX under their house brands, Arista Premium 400, and Arista Premium 100 respectively, according to common wisdom.
 
I mostly use general household items to process my film. I use D76 and Tri-X because it comes out printable/scannable every time no matter what (and looks good too). It is nice to get a consistent process down for sure, but don't get too fancy with all the stuff. I have started to just do developing and fixing, using water as stop bath and not even bothering with photo-flo or any of that washing stuff.
U19407I1280774238.SEQ.0.jpg
 
sonofdanang said:
Using photo-flo, or any wetting agent, obviates the need for wiping. It's physics, not magic.

Here's the logic:

If squeegeeing/sponging/TOUCHING your wet Photo-flo'd negs probably won't scratch your negs 99% of the time but might once in a hundred rolls due to bad luck,

and not touching/sqeegeeing/sponging your wet photo-flo'd negs definitely WON'T scratch them,
But try it and see.

IT'S DELICATE WHEN WET!! And pretty robust otherwise.

If you sense some evangelism about the subject, you might be correct.

But that's me.

Have fun.

Do your own proofing of what anyone here tells you - especially me!
Click to expand...

I still get an occasional dust though, even though I turn on the hot water to steam up the bathroom first, I have processed 1000's of rolls over my lifetime, and, I may have had a scratch or two, but, very minimal at best, easily taken care of now with the Computer an all. The % is so low, that it's moot. But, I will try my next few rolls without a squeegee (sponge type) and see how it goes.

Each must find the work-flow that works best for their environment.
 
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