Clanky44
Guelph, Ontario
Hello folks,
This will be my first time developing film. I'm shooting 35mm b&w (hp5+, delta400, acros100). I've purchased Kodak Tmax developer, Kodak stop bath and Kodak 2 part fixer (rapid fixer with hardener).
I'm assuming that the 2 part fixer will have to be premixed and stored in an opaque container.
Is there a preference to using distilled water over tap water for mixing the dev/stopper/fixer)?
How will I know if my fixer is still good? I've read that you can reuse it 10-15 times.
Thanks in advance
This will be my first time developing film. I'm shooting 35mm b&w (hp5+, delta400, acros100). I've purchased Kodak Tmax developer, Kodak stop bath and Kodak 2 part fixer (rapid fixer with hardener).
I'm assuming that the 2 part fixer will have to be premixed and stored in an opaque container.
Is there a preference to using distilled water over tap water for mixing the dev/stopper/fixer)?
How will I know if my fixer is still good? I've read that you can reuse it 10-15 times.
Thanks in advance
Steve M.
Veteran
Tap water is generally fine. I filter mine and all of my chemicals through a coffee filter in a funnel into my gradients before each developing session.
Yes, you can pour fixer back into the storage bottle, and do a clip test now and then to see if your fixer is still good. Lots of instructions on clip tests on the web. Always store chemicals in the correct type of plastic container w/ the lid on tightly and in a cool, dark place. Like under the sink. Label all bottles correctly, date them, and mark them POISON in case anyone else is living in your place. Have fun! Don't forget to give the developing tank some good inversions now and then, and tap it on the counter top to remove bubbles on the film.
Yes, you can pour fixer back into the storage bottle, and do a clip test now and then to see if your fixer is still good. Lots of instructions on clip tests on the web. Always store chemicals in the correct type of plastic container w/ the lid on tightly and in a cool, dark place. Like under the sink. Label all bottles correctly, date them, and mark them POISON in case anyone else is living in your place. Have fun! Don't forget to give the developing tank some good inversions now and then, and tap it on the counter top to remove bubbles on the film.
Bill Clark
Veteran
Welcome to Rangefinder forum.
I don’t use a fixer with hardener. Ilford Hypam for me.
I use tap water but it is just fine here for photography.
As the fixer is used it takes longer to work on film. At some point I throw it away.
With printing I throw it away after a day of use.
Don’t know where you live but I use this business for supplies:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com
I don’t use a fixer with hardener. Ilford Hypam for me.
I use tap water but it is just fine here for photography.
As the fixer is used it takes longer to work on film. At some point I throw it away.
With printing I throw it away after a day of use.
Don’t know where you live but I use this business for supplies:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Fixer doesn't need to be kept in an opaque container; unlike developer, it is not damaged by light. You can do about 50 rolls of film in a gallon of fixer.
As Bill Clark said, don't use a hardener with your fixer. that's what the Part B is with Kodak Rapid Fix. Just mix it without the Part B. Hardener increases wash times needed for film and is believed to reduce the lifespan of the film. It was used in the past when film emulsions were much softer than modern films; its no longer needed.
I use distilled water for all chemicals. It does make a difference. Especially for developer.
I have a bunch of tutorials on film developing, including a start-to-finish video.
http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/index.php
As Bill Clark said, don't use a hardener with your fixer. that's what the Part B is with Kodak Rapid Fix. Just mix it without the Part B. Hardener increases wash times needed for film and is believed to reduce the lifespan of the film. It was used in the past when film emulsions were much softer than modern films; its no longer needed.
I use distilled water for all chemicals. It does make a difference. Especially for developer.
I have a bunch of tutorials on film developing, including a start-to-finish video.
http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/index.php
Clanky44
Guelph, Ontario
Fixer doesn't need to be kept in an opaque container; unlike developer, it is not damaged by light. You can do about 50 rolls of film in a gallon of fixer.
As Bill Clark said, don't use a hardener with your fixer. that's what the Part B is with Kodak Rapid Fix. Just mix it without the Part B. Hardener increases wash times needed for film and is believed to reduce the lifespan of the film. It was used in the past when film emulsions were much softer than modern films; its no longer needed.
I use distilled water for all chemicals. It does make a difference. Especially for developer.
I have a bunch of tutorials on film developing, including a start-to-finish video.
http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/index.php
Thanks for the advice Folks,
The Kodak Tmax developer comes in a clear container, should I transfer it to an opaque one?
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Thanks for the advice Folks,
The Kodak Tmax developer comes in a clear container, should I transfer it to an opaque one?
Tmax Developer used to come in an opaque gray bottle, and the stuff lasted damn near forever. The transparent bottles definitely affect lifespan. Instead of moving it to a different bottle, you can just store the one Kodak gives you in a dark place, like a cabinet or a box.
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