New to me Olympus epl1 converted to IR

Here is a question for the IR experts.

I used to shoot IR on film, with the Efke 820 IR "AURA" in 35mm. I absolutely love the look:

8265122822_283ba7aa99_b.jpg


8264059559_1fcdbb0b82_c.jpg


8264185235_818bc9d10a_h.jpg


That film is not available any more, not even remainders, not for love or money. But I have to continue with a big project, and I have to mix analog images with... well, I have no choice, with digital images.

Does anyone have a good idea how to achieve this look with a mft camera?
 
That film is not available any more, not even remainders, not for love or money. But I have to continue with a big project, and I have to mix analog images with... well, I have no choice, with digital images.

Does anyone have a good idea how to achieve this look with a mft camera?

Well Efke went bust didn't they? I can't help you but I really like these shots!
 
Here is a question for the IR experts.

I used to shoot IR on film, with the Efke 820 IR "AURA" in 35mm. I absolutely love the look:

8265122822_283ba7aa99_b.jpg


8264059559_1fcdbb0b82_c.jpg


8264185235_818bc9d10a_h.jpg


That film is not available any more, not even remainders, not for love or money. But I have to continue with a big project, and I have to mix analog images with... well, I have no choice, with digital images.

Does anyone have a good idea how to achieve this look with a mft camera?

While I was doing my investigations about converting one of my sigma to ir, kolari (one of the ones Keith used), pointed me to a website dedicated to both digital and film ir stuff. Maybe they can help out on your question.

http://irphotocom.proboards.com

I am too new at this, but my first thought was that look appears to be when u don't cut off part of the visible light range ... Maybe when shooting around 650nm.

Good luck
Gary
 
Reading this thread has convinced me to have my Panasonic G1 converted to IR. I did a bit of research and am thinking of sending the camera to Lifepixel (a local company) for the conversion. On their website they highly recommend u4/3 cameras for conversion. They go on to say that the u4/3 lenses focus IR accurately and do not need to be adjusted.
 
you'll enjoy it, Mike; especially in low light with fast lenses--try it one dark eve at Pike Place or Elliott Bay retail district, someplace with ambient lighting and with people.
 
Here is a question for the IR experts.

I used to shoot IR on film, with the Efke 820 IR "AURA" in 35mm. I absolutely love the look:

Not that I would consider myself an expert and I wouldn't know how to reproduce this with film, but with an IR-converted digital camera (665nm or 720nm), you can use Photoshop to desaturate the false colors to B&W, then add toning. Here's an example - not quite the same level of toning saturation as your images, but the concept is the same.

20131205004304-ad1398d3-me.jpg


Reading this thread has convinced me to have my Panasonic G1 converted to IR. I did a bit of research and am thinking of sending the camera to Lifepixel (a local company) for the conversion. On their website they highly recommend u4/3 cameras for conversion. They go on to say that the u4/3 lenses focus IR accurately and do not need to be adjusted.

It's great fun. Just make sure you select the filter you'd be happy with. I started out with 590nm because I wanted bight yellows, but with my second one, I decided to go with 665nm -- yellows are not quite as bright but allow blacker blacks when using an 830nm IR filter on top of it. Lifepixel does a great job.
 
Good luck with the conversion.

Now that I have been shooting ir for a bit, I am now tending to think maybe going full spectrum or two spectrum might be the way to go. That way the same camera can be used normally or as an ir.

The issue w/ this is that u need a uv+ir cut filter similar to the one used for the Leica m8 or u will get blacks that are not true black when u want to shoot normal. On the other hand u can choose the level of ir by choosing the ir filter u wish to use. I would carry a 650 and 720..

I had not heard about m43 lenses being good here, but so far I have not had any facings issues w/ the w/ the two lenses that I have tried from my collection, the Panasonic 14 and 20. The kit zoom that came w/ the camera, if it was calibrated for it, I don't know.

In talking to kolari vision, I know they will calibrate the lens to the body.

I was thinking about getting my dp1 or 2 Merrill converted, but issues w/ what is going on w/ the ir filter and the where the red pixel sensor is located are pointing me away from this.

Now I am thinking about my x100 or gf1 for full spectrum conversion. After learning about m43 lenses.. I am more tending to the gf1.

Please keep report back about how it all goes.

Gary
 
Keith

U have used both life pixel and kolari vision. Did u like the work of one better over the other?

Thanks
Gary
 
Keith

U have used both life pixel and kolari vision. Did u like the work of one better over the other?

Thanks
Gary

Kolari's work is good enough, but I like Lifepixel better than Kolari. Lifepixel is more expensive though, so for me, it came down to cost.

BTW, if I were to do it now, I'd go with the dual spectrum conversion with Kolari (only because I don't think Lifepixel offers it). The dual spectrum provides better "regular" images when you put a hot mirror filter on your lens. Of course, you can still get those regular images with a full spectrum conversion plus hot mirror filter. In fact, I am think of doing that if I can find a cheap NEX body to convert.
 
Thanks Keith. Yeah I thought of the two spectrum as well but I mentioned the full since they are offered by both.

Gary
 
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