ped
Small brown dog
Hi guys
I've used ID11 for some time now with various films (usually PanF and Tri-X) but I'd like to try some Rodinal.
Now, I'm going to be using my Rondinax tank which uses 200ml of developer.
What mixture do you propose is best for me to use, bearing in mind the minimum recommended amount of Rodinal per film (10ml?) even though I read that's an overestimate.
I was thinking 1:25 (8ml of Rodinal, 192ml water)?
Also, can the solution be re-used or do I chuck it after use?
Many thanks
Chris
I've used ID11 for some time now with various films (usually PanF and Tri-X) but I'd like to try some Rodinal.
Now, I'm going to be using my Rondinax tank which uses 200ml of developer.
What mixture do you propose is best for me to use, bearing in mind the minimum recommended amount of Rodinal per film (10ml?) even though I read that's an overestimate.
I was thinking 1:25 (8ml of Rodinal, 192ml water)?
Also, can the solution be re-used or do I chuck it after use?
Many thanks
Chris
Johnmcd
Well-known
Hi Chris,
I always use Rodinal at 1:50 with great results. And chuck it after use.
Unmixed it lasts forever.
Cheers - John
I always use Rodinal at 1:50 with great results. And chuck it after use.
Unmixed it lasts forever.
Cheers - John
Steve M.
Veteran
I like 1:25 myself, even w/ 35mm film. Your exposures need to be good, and don't over agitate. Once you've mixed it, use it or chuck it. Most people draw up what they need in a syringe out of the bottle for one shot developing. Great developer. Once you play around w/ it a little, you can tailor make your negs to look like you wish, which is the appeal of Rodinal.
Vince Lupo
Whatever
I was going to try to put this in my own words, but this info (from digitaltruth.com) seems to sum it up pretty well:
"Rodinal can be used for contrast control by varying the dilution, allowing you to use a single bottle to produce negatives to suit your requirements. The recommended 1+50 diluton produces crisp negatives of normal contrast with slightly more obvious grain than standard fine-grain developers. Lower dilutions (eg. 1+25) produce high contrast images; whereas at higher dilutions (eg. 1+75 or 1+100) Rodinal has a compensating effect and can be used to render high contrast scenes with normal contrast. The appearance of grain is also proportional to the dilution, so at 1+25 it is at its most obvious, and at 1+100 it is at its finest. (Note: if you are not experienced with this developer, we do not recommend using the 1+100 dilution unless you want low contrast results.) Extreme dilutions can be used for special purposes: 1+10 will develop ortho film, and 1+300 will produce pictorial results from document-type films.
One of Rodinal's undoubted attributes is its incredible shelf life, with half-opened bottles reported to last over 40 years. The solution is light straw colored when first opened, and during the course of a year turns darker until eventually becoming deep purple-brown. Don't be fooled into throwing it out! Rodinal continues to perform perfectly regardless of the color of the solution, and is the ideal product to keep on your shelf if you often find your usual developer is exhausted."
"Rodinal can be used for contrast control by varying the dilution, allowing you to use a single bottle to produce negatives to suit your requirements. The recommended 1+50 diluton produces crisp negatives of normal contrast with slightly more obvious grain than standard fine-grain developers. Lower dilutions (eg. 1+25) produce high contrast images; whereas at higher dilutions (eg. 1+75 or 1+100) Rodinal has a compensating effect and can be used to render high contrast scenes with normal contrast. The appearance of grain is also proportional to the dilution, so at 1+25 it is at its most obvious, and at 1+100 it is at its finest. (Note: if you are not experienced with this developer, we do not recommend using the 1+100 dilution unless you want low contrast results.) Extreme dilutions can be used for special purposes: 1+10 will develop ortho film, and 1+300 will produce pictorial results from document-type films.
One of Rodinal's undoubted attributes is its incredible shelf life, with half-opened bottles reported to last over 40 years. The solution is light straw colored when first opened, and during the course of a year turns darker until eventually becoming deep purple-brown. Don't be fooled into throwing it out! Rodinal continues to perform perfectly regardless of the color of the solution, and is the ideal product to keep on your shelf if you often find your usual developer is exhausted."
ped
Small brown dog
Great, thanks for the replies. I'll most likely try 1:25 then as I'm trying to get a different look than my ID11.
Mablo
Well-known
Tri-x needs a slightly special treatment in Rodinal unless you like your negatives with grain. I'm using EI 200 (weighted average metering avoiding sky) and use 1+50 for 12 minutes (20C). It's very important to agitate only every three minutes after the initial agitation.
ped
Small brown dog
Right, this reminds me - Massive Dev Chart shows 1:25 for 7 mins. Sounds OK - however in a Rondinax Tank you are essentially constantly agitating, so wondered how that might change.
TBH I'm going to use Rodinal as a 'grain dev' and ID11 if I want less grain. I'm really happy with the results I've had with Tri-X in ID11 so I kind of want it to be different in Rodinal..
Also, I'd like to use Rodinal for more grain on films like Pan F and Fomapan 200. I like the slow speed (so I can use my lens wide open in daylight) but I actually don't always want super fine grain.
Does that sound reasonable??
Cheers!!
leicapixie
Well-known
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143785
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143785
I hate to be bearer of bad news.
Rodinal is Not Rodinal of the past.
The past before Agfa folded it's tent and made off,
with the pension funds.
The replacement Blazinol whatever is slightly different.
The concentrate ages in bottle, gathering "crystals".
It has eaten it's way thru the container..
Original Rodinal never did.
I used chemical that was many years old..
it worked perfectly.
The new stuff is different...
There are very accurate charts for Rodinal users.
Use dilutions of 1:50.
Some films are bad in it.
HP-5 is one..Tri-X is good.
Grain is not a problem.
It is part of it's result.
After it being my main developer for 40 years, i quit.
i moved to Kodak HC-110.
I love the clean negatives, no base fog.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143785
I hate to be bearer of bad news.
Rodinal is Not Rodinal of the past.
The past before Agfa folded it's tent and made off,
with the pension funds.
The replacement Blazinol whatever is slightly different.
The concentrate ages in bottle, gathering "crystals".
It has eaten it's way thru the container..
Original Rodinal never did.
I used chemical that was many years old..
it worked perfectly.
The new stuff is different...
There are very accurate charts for Rodinal users.
Use dilutions of 1:50.
Some films are bad in it.
HP-5 is one..Tri-X is good.
Grain is not a problem.
It is part of it's result.
After it being my main developer for 40 years, i quit.
i moved to Kodak HC-110.
I love the clean negatives, no base fog.
ped
Small brown dog
I have Agfa Rodinal R09
Drago
Established
Nothing is the same and you can't expect it to be. My bottle of rodinal had this " crystals" since about an year, but it's still working perfectly fine. Just use it for 3-4 years and if you are so concerned about it's shelf life throw it away. It's still more economical as it's about 10 euro for bottle. The thing i love about rodinal is in the character it give my negs. It'll always surprise you, for better or worse
charjohncarter
Veteran
Rodinal is a great developer: easy to use (one shot), last forever, you do lose some film speed, grain is a problem with 35mm, but the good side is high acutance. Any dilution works well so take your pick, I like 1+50 so I have a smaller chance of timing error.
DNG
Film Friendly
When I try a new developer, I take a roll with varied ISOs from 100-1600, and use a the MDC temp/times, and my normal Agitation routine, and pick the ISO with best overall exposure/contrast/grain as my base film speed for That developer/dilution.
It gets you to a starting point at least for predictable results with the next rolls.
It gets you to a starting point at least for predictable results with the next rolls.
Bill Clark
Veteran
Try stand developing. Works great!
Here is a good place to read:
http://www.everythingbloom.com/stand-development-tutorial-by-jason-watts-photography
Here is a good place to read:
http://www.everythingbloom.com/stand-development-tutorial-by-jason-watts-photography
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
1+50 for common development, 1+100 for stand development.
Rodinal is highly temperature sensitive...
It will give you its look and crisp grain always, but the grain is beautiful if temperature is kept low (16-18C), and 1+25 is not necessary, nor special in any way, as you can get more contrast increasing time and/or agitation.
It's also highly agitation sensitive, so grain likes slow and gentle agitation: 2 times every minute for normal cases, 2 times every second or third minute for contrast control.
For pushing it doesn't take 400 film beyond 1600...
I use 4ml as a minimum for 35mm rolls.
I like it more for classic grain films than for TMax or Delta films, and for present grain in common size prints, it works very well with Tri-X exposed at 200 for complete shadow detail. Also great for street shooting with Tri-X at 800, for keeping f8 and prefocusing...
Cheers,
Juan
Rodinal is highly temperature sensitive...
It will give you its look and crisp grain always, but the grain is beautiful if temperature is kept low (16-18C), and 1+25 is not necessary, nor special in any way, as you can get more contrast increasing time and/or agitation.
It's also highly agitation sensitive, so grain likes slow and gentle agitation: 2 times every minute for normal cases, 2 times every second or third minute for contrast control.
For pushing it doesn't take 400 film beyond 1600...
I use 4ml as a minimum for 35mm rolls.
I like it more for classic grain films than for TMax or Delta films, and for present grain in common size prints, it works very well with Tri-X exposed at 200 for complete shadow detail. Also great for street shooting with Tri-X at 800, for keeping f8 and prefocusing...
Cheers,
Juan
HHPhoto
Well-known
Well, that is not quite the original Rodinal formula.
It is a clone made by Tetenal for Compard, who is bottling it and delivering it to Maco Photo Products, who are responsible for world wide distribution.
If you want the original, latest Agfa formula, then take Adox Adonal (it is sold as Adox Rodinal in the US).
Adox has bought the original formula.
Cheers, Jan
ped
Small brown dog
Thanks for the further info guys.
Again - I'm using a Rondinax tank, so agitation suggestions are irellevant as you keep the spool turning throughout development. FWIW, the results with ID11 are identical (at least to my eye) to when I used to use a Petterson tank...
Again - I'm using a Rondinax tank, so agitation suggestions are irellevant as you keep the spool turning throughout development. FWIW, the results with ID11 are identical (at least to my eye) to when I used to use a Petterson tank...
williams473
Well-known
Yes I use the Adox Adonal at 1:25 and it works well. It turns dark brown over time but still works. I chose it for the economy - when times are tight I switch to 1:50 or higher dilutions to save money. I purchased a nice glass graduate from a scientific supply company so that I can measure it out easily. Typically for a couple rolls of 120 in a 1000ml tank I'm mixing 40ml of Adonal with 1000ml of water. Primarily shooting Ilford FP4.
Colin Corneau
Colin Corneau
+1. Chuck it after one time use whether you use 1:50 or 1:25, which are most common ratios. Good ones to try out if you're just new to this developer and want to get to know it.
People say different ratios have different qualities -- honestly the only thing I've ever noticed is one's own experience. I suggest you try both, on a few test rolls, and see what YOU think.
ped
Small brown dog
Can I use (and re-use) the same stop and fixer that I've been using (and re-using) with ID11, or should I mix up a separate batch to stop cross contamination?
Bill Clark
Veteran
You should be fine with the stop bath and fixer used for finishing your ID 11 for your Rodinal. I mix stock fixer 1+4 for working solution. I will discard the fixer if it takes more than 4 minutes to clear the film. Stop bath lasts a long time for film processing. An indicator stop bath I use and will turn purple when exhausted.