kdemas
Enjoy Life.
alistair.o
Well-known
nobbylon
Veteran
I believe it says 80 until you get past zero on the frame counter
nobbylon
Veteran
It was so that when changing films in A mode and the cap on, you didn't get very long exposure times therefore slowing film loading. Mine's stuck at 40 so it doesn't affect me. Better this than stuck at zero or zero minus as the camera would be stuck at 1/80th
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Thanks for reminding us of yet another sore point.
I have read that many brand new F3's when they first came out were returned as being defective. As stated above, the disabling of the meter was done rather than locking up the camera if the camera was in Auto mode and the lens cap happened to be on.
This is yet another one of those quirks that you have to live with. In the old days, on my F2's I frequently would get reliably get 38 and sometimes even 39 frames on a roll.
When I develope film that was shot in a F3 sometimes see the two extra frames that are exposed because I had the lens cap off when I reloaded.
Nikon F3 is a good example of a great camera with many-many flaws. Overall I still love all of mine.
BTW: For those of you who pay for processing, it pays to always have your lens cap on when you reload because you'll be charged for those "dead frames" in the form of mounted slides or prints.
Cal
I have read that many brand new F3's when they first came out were returned as being defective. As stated above, the disabling of the meter was done rather than locking up the camera if the camera was in Auto mode and the lens cap happened to be on.
This is yet another one of those quirks that you have to live with. In the old days, on my F2's I frequently would get reliably get 38 and sometimes even 39 frames on a roll.
When I develope film that was shot in a F3 sometimes see the two extra frames that are exposed because I had the lens cap off when I reloaded.
Nikon F3 is a good example of a great camera with many-many flaws. Overall I still love all of mine.
BTW: For those of you who pay for processing, it pays to always have your lens cap on when you reload because you'll be charged for those "dead frames" in the form of mounted slides or prints.
Cal
clayne
shoot film or die
This is overly dramatic. The camera doesn't have "many-many" flaws. It does have flaws - the flaws are minor and easy to work around.
Perhaps for people who can't deal with the fact that it isn't perfect the flaws continue to bother them. Everyone else just ignores them.
DennisPT
Well-known
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I used two F3's with motor drives to shoot the NYC Halloween Parade, and I took notice that my F3P does not need to get past zero on the frame counter to have the meter functioning.
Also picked up a "BlackRapid" strap at the PhotoPlusExpo that works well when carrying two F3's. Effectively the camera is free to slide along a strap that is worn over the left shoulder and the camera hangs upside down on your right hip.
The F3 non HP that I modded to have the light come on whenever the meter performed well when it got dark. For those who shoot under dim light or darkness I highly recommend this enhancement.
BTW I bought a third MD-4 at B&H for $16.00. Now all my F3's will be with MD-4's.
Cal
meillana
Member
here's a portrait of my champagne f3/t (w/c i bought for less than $100 with a 50/1.4 AIS) with the micro-nikkor 500/f8
it has mighty loud "clang" against the subtle "snick" of the leica mp's shutter but loving it still....
it has mighty loud "clang" against the subtle "snick" of the leica mp's shutter but loving it still....
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
here's a portrait of my champagne f3/t (w/c i bought for less than $100 with a 50/1.4 AIS) with the micro-nikkor 500/f8
it has mighty loud "clang" against the subtle "snick" of the leica mp's shutter but loving it still....
You stole that camera. Nice rig BTW. The clang is louder with a MD-4. Someone said it in an earlier post, "The opposite of a Leica," I think it was MENOS (Dirk).
Is your F3T as clean as it looks in the shot above?
Cal
meillana
Member
thanks cal.
wish it were but not quite..... scuff marks on both areas of the strap lugs and a big bang of a dent on the right side of the hp finder. other than those its "clean" and works like clockwork.
i use both the mp and the f3/t in a room w the latter always getting a head turn on a single shot but i can fire off several shots on the mp as stealthy as can be
craygc
Well-known
Focusing my F3 usually takes a little concentration as I've had an intra ocular lens transplant which is monofocal set to infinity. I know a diopter would help but I tried a +1 and that made things worse.
Point of a long story, short ...last night just playing with the F3, for some reason I decided to try the original eye piece from my FM3a on the F3 and "fantastic"!!! Everything is suddenly sharp and snaps into focus. Both eye pieces are the originals, go figure...
Point of a long story, short ...last night just playing with the F3, for some reason I decided to try the original eye piece from my FM3a on the F3 and "fantastic"!!! Everything is suddenly sharp and snaps into focus. Both eye pieces are the originals, go figure...
nobbylon
Veteran
An update on the one I bought because of this thread!
I mentioned that the frame counter was stuck at 40 so I decided to fix it myself. All attepts at getting the pin out failed so I opened up the right hand side. No amount of coaxing would budge the plunger and it's very difficult to get at so I removed the advance, shutter release and frame counter assembly. I actually just lifted it up and with the extra space was able to tap the top hat pin back through. It was very firmly stuck and prob due to some moisture setting off some surface corrosion on the magnesium alloy and the steel pin. Anyway it eventually moved and a tiny pinhead of oil had it working correctly again. Put it all back together and DISASTER. Dead camera. I was gutted. I took it apart again and discovered that by moving the assembly I had detached two of the 4 wires on the front side. Whilst looking at it the other two came off. ARGHHHHH.
I spent probably 4-6 hrs getting these 4 wires re connected and I can honestly say it was a nightmare however I managed it and finished putting it all back together this morning. The end result is that it all works as it should but it was definately a patience tester!!!!!
I mentioned that the frame counter was stuck at 40 so I decided to fix it myself. All attepts at getting the pin out failed so I opened up the right hand side. No amount of coaxing would budge the plunger and it's very difficult to get at so I removed the advance, shutter release and frame counter assembly. I actually just lifted it up and with the extra space was able to tap the top hat pin back through. It was very firmly stuck and prob due to some moisture setting off some surface corrosion on the magnesium alloy and the steel pin. Anyway it eventually moved and a tiny pinhead of oil had it working correctly again. Put it all back together and DISASTER. Dead camera. I was gutted. I took it apart again and discovered that by moving the assembly I had detached two of the 4 wires on the front side. Whilst looking at it the other two came off. ARGHHHHH.
I spent probably 4-6 hrs getting these 4 wires re connected and I can honestly say it was a nightmare however I managed it and finished putting it all back together this morning. The end result is that it all works as it should but it was definately a patience tester!!!!!
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Wow. You are either brave or foolish, but that took a lot of couage either way. I would not have attempeted what you accomplished.
Update: I shot two recent NYC events with two of my F3's: the Halloween Parade; and the NYC Marathon. For both events I used my Noct-Nikkor and 105/1.8AIS.
The metering mod I performed worked well for shooting at night, and I had no problem metering in darkness. I also found that even though I was shooting the 58/1.2 wide open at 1/30th of a second the MD-4 really helped stabilize my camera for surpisingly sharp results that I didn't expect. All of this occurred as I was allowed onto the parade route and eventually became part of the parade. A lot of rapid/fast shooting was required on a chilly night. The MD-4's 4 second rewinding came in very handy.
The F3's with MD-4's were also in their element shooting the Marathon's fast action.
Also some film I shot in Portland Oregon indicated that the F3 meters bulb exposures in auto very well. This feature will save a lot of film by not having to bracket as much. I would perform a second shot to account for any reciprocy failure as insurance.
Cal
nobbylon
Veteran
Cal,
foolish? not at all. I didn't pay a lot for it and I thought it would be a simple push the pin from the other side job. Unfortunately it got a bit more involved. I'm not a camera technician but I am mechanically minded and like a challenge. It was VERY difficult to solder the wires as they are very short. I had to support the advance unit on a block next to the camera to do this. If I had not opened it up then the counter would still be at 40 and would bug me constantly. For the cost of repair I might as well have bought another one. I'm happy with it now and I'm even starting to prefer it over my F and F2's.
foolish? not at all. I didn't pay a lot for it and I thought it would be a simple push the pin from the other side job. Unfortunately it got a bit more involved. I'm not a camera technician but I am mechanically minded and like a challenge. It was VERY difficult to solder the wires as they are very short. I had to support the advance unit on a block next to the camera to do this. If I had not opened it up then the counter would still be at 40 and would bug me constantly. For the cost of repair I might as well have bought another one. I'm happy with it now and I'm even starting to prefer it over my F and F2's.
sykotec
Well-known
Yup, that's the expected behavior for the F3P, one of the changes from a 'normal' F3/F3HP. Many are for durability, but the meter live at the beginning of the roll and the 1-step open for the back were (as I remember, sold mine a bit ago) the biggest operational differences.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I hope I didn't come across as being harsh or judgemental. I just remember how scary it was for me to start opening my F3 to investigate how to bypass the meter's light switch. You are a better man than me. I also figured that a pro repairman/woman would of charged enough that it would approach the price of a replacement.
Slightly off topic: My M6 that I bought off Ebay came with a surprise dead frame counter. You are correct in that it drove me nuts untill I had it overhauled by Sherry as well as upgraded with a MP finder. I remember when I first got a TA Rapidwinder I thought I moight have snapped a roll loose from the spool because it seemed like an endless roll. LOL. I hate when I rudely find out that I'm at the end of a roll as a surprise and then miss a shot.:bang:
Cal
ruby.monkey
Veteran
Number 1 Son approves of my F3HP/MD4. He's always had good taste in cameras.
Focus by ruby.monkey, on Flickr
Focus by ruby.monkey, on Flickr
Biggles
My cup runneth amok.
Even I've got one. Gift from a cousin by marriage, who knows I run around with cameras sometimes. My Xmas present from him was his old F3 and a trio of lenses, including a 55/2.8 Micro. They'd been in storage for a good ten years. This thread, and the fact that the ASA dial tops out at 6400(!), have me convinced I should get that rig 'hauled and operational.
I'm gonna want the body cleaned up, the meter adjusted and calibrated for modern battery voltage, and the helicoid on the 55mm lens lubed, at the very minimum. Would love to simply walk it into a repair shop in Manhattan, next time I'm there. So, New York City people: Who do you take your Nikon Fs to for overhauls? Nippon Photo Clinic? And what's a routine oil change likely to cost?
I'm gonna want the body cleaned up, the meter adjusted and calibrated for modern battery voltage, and the helicoid on the 55mm lens lubed, at the very minimum. Would love to simply walk it into a repair shop in Manhattan, next time I'm there. So, New York City people: Who do you take your Nikon Fs to for overhauls? Nippon Photo Clinic? And what's a routine oil change likely to cost?
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Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
The F3 is a pretty modern camera, made in the 1980s and 1990s, they use modern batteries, 357/SR44 type silver oxides, so there's nothing to calibrate.