Nikon F3 Tribute

That F3 that kitok has looks like an F3P also. I can't see if there's a lever on the front side of the Shutter Speed Dial or not, but it looks the same as mine.
 
Here's mine, an F3P "Press" model with SC-12 flash rig. I love this camera, but every once in a while it will decide to not shoot anything. Nothing works. Then it just works. Never figured out why but I've read that they had some wiring issues with these. Maybe it's time for a CLA.

02_march_2011_photo_a_day_by_dudewithad700-d3arnnc.jpg

I'm having similar issues with my cleanest F3. It seems like the camera just won't fire sometimes, but the first simptom is that I can't get the meter to activate using the shutter release on the MD-4. If I use the shuter release on the body it works every time.

I'm thinking that the electrical contacts on the shutter release need a cleaning, or something has worked loose over decades of ab/use. I'll probably try to isolate the problem further by swapping in anothe MD-4 to see if the problem goes away. I have one MD-4 I got at B&H for $17.00, but its a bit hammered. I can activate the meter with the MD-4 shutter release, even if its in lock position. Now I wish all my MD-4's offered this feature. LOL.

I'll report back further results. I doubt that your problem is in the body. I suspect your MD-4.

Cal
 
Interesting thread. I only recently got my first Nikon, a nice F2 and have been loving it. I have been pondering adding a 2nd body but really don't know that much about Nikon. It's a tossup between a F3 with MD4 or a F4.

I've got one kit AI modified lens, a 35/2, the rest are Pre-AI. I expect to also track down kits (if I can) for my 50/1.4 & 105/2.5 as those three are the ones I primarily use.

Ah well, still setting pennies aside so no need to decide today. But this thread has been quite educational.
 
Interesting thread. I only recently got my first Nikon, a nice F2 and have been loving it. I have been pondering adding a 2nd body but really don't know that much about Nikon. It's a tossup between a F3 with MD4 or a F4.

I've got one kit AI modified lens, a 35/2, the rest are Pre-AI. I expect to also track down kits (if I can) for my 50/1.4 & 105/2.5 as those three are the ones I primarily use.

Ah well, still setting pennies aside so no need to decide today. But this thread has been quite educational.

Congrats on owning your first Nikon "Pro" camera. Lucky us that the market is flooded because these cameras have proven themselves to be so durable. Load up when you can with these crazy low prices.

Cal
 
wlewisiii, I just sold an F4e. The only one I did not have was the F2. I just didn't need the 4 since I only use my F and F5. If I were you, I'd go with an F3 or F5. The 4 is a rugged model and won't let you down, but the F5 is all that but sleeker and fits better in the hand. The F3 just feels like an all out Give-Em-Hell model for sure.
 
...and have been loving it.

So, what's wrong with another F2? :cool:

Keeping a uniform stable will help you standardize on accessories--heads, motor drives, focusing screens, backs--and generations of lenses. Just an idea. Works for yours truly.
 
I've pondered that, but for me the big reason to try the F3 first is the difference between 60/40 & 80/20 metering patterns. Canon's patterns were tighter (the FTbN's center weighted meter is damn near a spot meter.) so I get myself in some trouble with that 60/40 meter pattern. Going with a F4 would get me matrix or spot metering with AI lenses which have their own advantages & disadvantages.

In the meantime, I'm having a hella lotta fun with the F2. :D
 
The other two cameras I've had seriously recommended to me are the Nikkormat EL (aperture priority with pre-AI lenses) and the Nikon FA (primitive matrix metering as long as the lenses are at least AI'd.) With the glass I own these would certainly make a certain amount of sense.
 
Cal, are you having that problem on your F3HP or the F3P ??

The intermitent problem is on a F3HP that happenes to be very clean. I tried to isolate the problem further by mounting another MD-4 and initially the problem seem to vanish, but this morning the irratic behavior returned. I'll likely take it to Nippon Camera Clinic here in NY later this month.

The way I see it, after probably thirty years of service a repair is due.

Also the MD-4 I installed is likely the one that came with my F3P. Not only can the meter be activated when in the locked position, the dial for lock-single-continuios works more like an aperature ring with detents where it works more like an aperture ring. Kinda works so reliably and smoothly that its possible that it was a modification.

Cal
 
Seems like my clean F3 does not like my new MF-18 Data-Back. I reconfigured my most hammered F3 that I got for a meager $185.00 with MD-4 with my Noct-Nikkor and new MF-18.

Now I'm back to three reliable F3's. Did extensive testing and shooting. Everything is up.

Cal
 
Wow. Has anyone taken notice of how the F3 supply went from a glut to a vaccum. At Adorama they are mostly offering bodies that are not even users that are only good for parts.

I'm glad I bought double backups.

Cal
 
I have a question for any F3 experts out there. I had a previous one, with a newer s/n and it metered regardless of where the film counter was, with AI or non AI lenses, never got the 1/80th lock until frame 1.

The one I have now only meters after frame counter is at 1, which I understand occurs with many (most)?

So the question is, to meter at anytime like my first F3, is it a special s/n range? Or did a previous owner mod it?
 
both

both

I like to meter and see shutter speed for A mode when there's no film in. I understand film will soon be hard to get, and want to be prepared to shoot and meter accurately without film ... ;)


Do you mean meter or show correct shutter speed?

Al
 
My F3P does not lock out the meter upon loading. Perhaps you had the electronics of a F3P installed your camera.

Cal
 
Wow. Has anyone taken notice of how the F3 supply went from a glut to a vaccum. At Adorama they are mostly offering bodies that are not even users that are only good for parts.

Maybe a lot of people read this thread and bought one....

;)
 
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