Nikon F3 Tribute

:cool:
ampguy said:
I like to meter and see shutter speed for A mode when there's no film in. I understand film will soon be hard to get, and want to be prepared to shoot and meter accurately without film ... ;)
Click to expand...

well, squeeze that button a couple of times and you should be in business. or are you saying your counter is not advancing either?
 
counter doesn't increment

counter doesn't increment

unless there's film in.

Perhaps my earlier one was an F3P.


Vilk said:
:cool:

well, squeeze that button a couple of times and you should be in business. or are you saying your counter is not advancing either?
Click to expand...
 
So much knowledge and experiences in here so I'll try posting a question regarding my F3. Last summer it started malfunctioning all of a sudden. The camera works but some of the connections seem wrong, the shutter speed is capricious regardless setting. The slower times e.g. 1/30 sometimes sound like 1/60 or even one second. The shutter in its self isn't lagging in any way, it seems more an electrical issue.
Has anyone experienced something like this? Any report is helpful, it's so sad just leaving the camera in the shelf. And yes, the finder is dented :)
viewpic.asp
 
Riouzan (Robert) indicated to me that a really great deal on a F3P was on the classifieds so this is another bump.

Anyways the update is that I traded away one of my beloved F3's, a HP, as part of a deal for a vintage Bruce Davidson print, and now I only own a F3 non HP and my F3P, both equipt with MD-4's and AH-4 handstraps.

The F3 non HP with its lower magnification VF'er offers higher contrast for low light so this is the camera that has my Noct-Nikkor permanently mounted. I am beginning a project to use extended developement and minimized agitation to push Tri-X to 1600 and HP5 to 3200 for nightstalking in Madhattan as a winter project. Last night shot 1600 ISO with lots of shutter speed to play with.

My beloved F3P has an "E" screen (ground glass with grid) and a 105/1.8 AIS permanently mounted.

Most recently I got a 50 Lux ASPH and a M6 with 0.85 VF'er so I could shoot a 28 Cron with a 50 Lux ASPH and shoot with two M-bodied cameras. Thought for a moment that I should cull down the Nikon F3's further, but now I see wisdom in keeping the two I have.

Dispite all the new gear, my F3's are keepers. Thanks Robert for reminding me how they have become part of me. What a great camera.

Cal
 
malmeqvisto said:
So much knowledge and experiences in here so I'll try posting a question regarding my F3. Last summer it started malfunctioning all of a sudden. The camera works but some of the connections seem wrong, the shutter speed is capricious regardless setting. The slower times e.g. 1/30 sometimes sound like 1/60 or even one second. The shutter in its self isn't lagging in any way, it seems more an electrical issue.
Has anyone experienced something like this? Any report is helpful, it's so sad just leaving the camera in the shelf. And yes, the finder is dented :)
viewpic.asp
Click to expand...

I've read that the F3 typically has electrical issues. I know mine does, but not all the time... just when ever it feels like acting up. I think mine is a girl....
 
I bought mine back in 1982 or so and I also ended up using it on my microscope to take photomicrographs of cells. It was easier and more reliable than the special Nikon microscope camera setup. I still have the camera and it has survived dropping it on the concrete sidewalk, rain, snow and heat. It is still an amazing camera and it's great to see so many still being used today.

Auguri!
David
 
Calzone said:
Riouzan (Robert) indicated to me that a really great deal on a F3P was on the classifieds so this is another bump.

Anyways the update is that I traded away one of my beloved F3's, a HP, as part of a deal for a vintage Bruce Davidson print, and now I only own a F3 non HP and my F3P, both equipt with MD-4's and AH-4 handstraps.

The F3 non HP with its lower magnification VF'er offers higher contrast for low light so this is the camera that has my Noct-Nikkor permanently mounted. I am beginning a project to use extended developement and minimized agitation to push Tri-X to 1600 and HP5 to 3200 for nightstalking in Madhattan as a winter project. Last night shot 1600 ISO with lots of shutter speed to play with.

My beloved F3P has an "E" screen (ground glass with grid) and a 105/1.8 AIS permanently mounted.

Most recently I got a 50 Lux ASPH and a M6 with 0.85 VF'er so I could shoot a 28 Cron with a 50 Lux ASPH and shoot with two M-bodied cameras. Thought for a moment that I should cull down the Nikon F3's further, but now I see wisdom in keeping the two I have.

Dispite all the new gear, my F3's are keepers. Thanks Robert for reminding me how they have become part of me. What a great camera.

Cal
Click to expand...

Hey Cal, your comment about the non HP finder inspires me, to get and try one of those with my F3HP and Noct.

I didn't shoot the Noct at all the last months, as I have preferred the Leica M bodies and rangefinder focussing, but man, I do miss that Noct!

I am now shooting also a lot more with external meter in the nights, so the mediocre LCD in the F3 might not pose much difficulties, just using it as a meter less body.

My standard film actually is TriX400 @ 3200 in D-76 1:1 - I would be quite interested in your results of push experiments.
I just lost my favorite lab (price raise by 40% !!!), where I had my film pushed in D-76 and finding another with consistent quality @ 3200 seems impossible !@#$%

Looks, like I have to start developing myself again (preferring Kodak TMax dev, to push TriX to 3200).
 
menos said:
Hey Cal, your comment about the non HP finder inspires me, to get and try one of those with my F3HP and Noct.

I didn't shoot the Noct at all the last months, as I have preferred the Leica M bodies and rangefinder focussing, but man, I do miss that Noct!

I am now shooting also a lot more with external meter in the nights, so the mediocre LCD in the F3 might not pose much difficulties, just using it as a meter less body.

My standard film actually is TriX400 @ 3200 in D-76 1:1 - I would be quite interested in your results of push experiments.
I just lost my favorite lab (price raise by 40% !!!), where I had my film pushed in D-76 and finding another with consistent quality @ 3200 seems impossible !@#$%

Looks, like I have to start developing myself again (preferring Kodak TMax dev, to push TriX to 3200).
Click to expand...

I just bought a chrome F2 with DE-1 eye level prism to go meterless. I was lucky and only got it for $299.00 at B&H. I'll use my Gossen Luna-Pro as my external meter.

I rigged both my F3's with MD-4's so I could short the illuminator light switch so that whenever the meter is activated the light comes on. The only problem with this mod is that it requires use of the MD-4 for power because battery drain is an issue.

The F2's DE-1 eye-level prism is very much like the DE-2 on my F3 non HP. Less magnification equals a brighter viewfinder with more contrast than a DE-3 HP finder. I find the DE-3 HP finder is best suited for use with long lenses and that is why I have the 105/1.8 AIS permanently mounted.

Anyways long developement times lowers contrast. RanceEric posted and shared with me his development for HP5 at 3200 ISO using Microphen. He gets nice greytones that are acually amazing considering the film speed. His trick is to minimize aggitation where he only performs two gentile inversions per minute, but this requires an extended developement of 25 minutes. Also Rance's images don't have the blown highlights that often come with extreame high ISO. Like in stand developement highlight development is limited.

I also saw a pattern on the Massive Development chart where Tri-X and HP5 use all the same times, but the ISO's are staggered. Tri-X at 800 has the same time as HP5 at 1600; and Tri-X at 1600 has the same time as HP5 at 3200 ISO. I'm hoping that I will be able to shoot Tri-X at 1600 and HP5 at 3200 using RanceEric's process and be able to process HP5 and Tri-X shot at different film speeds all in the same tank.

This would be great because I shoot lots of film and have the capacity to develope 8 reels of 135 at a time. Also even better if I can cross formats and process 135 and 120 in the same tank.

I guess I'm spoiled because I have gotten Diafine to work for me. I'm basically just a clever slacker who wants to get the highest output, yet the highest quality, with minimal effort. Also at the lowest cost.

I will start with a 4 reel batch first restricted to 135.

Cal

P.S. Also want to try Acufine, another high energy developer. I use to use a lot of ID-11 at 1:1. I liked it for lowering contrast, but it does not have the pushing abilities of Microphen, especially at the higher ISO's.
 
Last edited:
Hmm, I think the DE2 finder has a bit higher magnification, the HP has more eye relief (ability to keep eye further from finder, good for glasses users).
 
MD-4 is worth it. The camera becomes a self-defense weapon, especially with the firing rate converter on the bottom. It's easier to hold with big lenses and, if you don't want to use the motor, just turn it off, let it power the camera, and crank by hand.
 
ampguy said:
Hmm, I think the DE2 finder has a bit higher magnification, the HP has more eye relief (ability to keep eye further from finder, good for glasses users).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the correction. Anyways I find the F2's DE-1 to be the same as the DE-2 finder which is a good thing.

BTW I where glasses.

Cal
 
Hypnotizedd said:
Found myself an F3 and a 50mm 2.0 AI converted for $100. hyped to shoot. is an MD-4 really worth it?
Click to expand...

The F3 was really engineered to be used with a MD-4. The film advance incorporates ball bearings for high speed frame rates.

I find the added weight balances well and stabilizes the camera, but for many the weight is too much and they perfer a F3 without a MD-4.

Both my F3's have MD-4's. When I had thre F3's all had MD-4's.

Cal
 
6407835687_6e40f99f43_z.jpg

When we went to Japan in November. I picked up 3 F3's. One HP and 2 regular finders and 2 of the MD4's. I kind of like it for the AR system when doing macro stuff.
I used to work with four of these, doing AV shows (80-90 rolls/day of Ektachrome!). They are heavy, but the MD4 allows you to hold it steady - and is surprisingly comfortable to carry.
My "stock" lenses are a Voigtlander 58f1.4 Nokton and the 40f2 + a large assortment of Macro lenses (55/105/bellows 135/200) and of course a couple of 105f2.5's - just because it is still one of the best "short" tele's made.
OK, I also have about 7 Nikon F's - just plain like them too!
Shot with the Voigtlander Nokton 58f1.4 @ f1.4 and closest focussing distance.
 
Last edited:
6407835995_2d3c2e741c_z.jpg


Cruising various camera stores in Tokyo with Shintaro - we ended up at Cross Point. small, somewhat disorganized. Looking through the various boxes on the floor, I spotted this 135f3.5 Nikkor. The tag said 300 yen. Lens looked OK, a bit "foggy" but everything was smooth and solid. The owner did not want to change my 1000 yen note and as I only had 200 yen in coins - he decided that that was the price (approx. $2.50). At dinner Shintaro took it apart and cleaned it - some residual oil helicoil/aperture blades. Works OK now.
 
6484161319_faef00b044_z.jpg


One of the other F3's - this is the HP and the with the 40f2 Ultron (with it's Proxar lens). Very good all-round lens and with that proxar you have a "instant" macro - and it is very good as such.
The other thing with the MD4 is that it powers the metering system when on the camera!
It is still a bit noisy - but it is more of a "burp" than a slam/bang of the F2's MD1 and the F36.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom