Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Joe,
Nikon built around a million F3's over one of its longest production cycles and I say about 3/4's of the F3's ever made still work today. The F3 has proven itself to be a very durable camera, even though it has an electronic shutter, AE, and revolutionary metering electronics built into the body.
Recently I bought a LN F3HP for only $150.00 because the market is kinda flooded with working cameras that don't seem to break. (The camera is so fresh that the foam seals are still good.) Plenty of $50, $75 and $100 user cameras to use as hammers, but we are talking a Nikon Pro Camera here with mucho accessories with a 100% VF'er. (To me the idea of shooting a SLR is accurate framing.)
Also very recently I bought a black DE-1 eye level prism at a very good price that was in excellent condition. I bought a black F2 body with a dead meter from KEH, but overall this pure mechanical camera cost me $390.00 to build. Perhaps this is the route you would like to go?
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
DE-2 non HP finder is 0.80 magnification while the DE-3 HP finder is only 0.75. Add in a DK-17 and 0.75 X 1.2 equals 0.90 magnification which is very close to the 0.92 magnification of a Leica M3.
BTW both my F3's feature DK-17's, and I feel that there is nothing negative about using one. Also know that with a Noct-Nikkor's 58mm focal length that the added magnification due to the focal length gave me a 100% VF'er.
Cal
Joe AC
Well-known
Hi Cal,
The F2 route sounds like a possibility. How's the user experience in comparison to the F3? Also, how's the size and weight?
Joe
nobbylon
Veteran
If you love the F3 then no need to change. If it hasn't broken by now it probably never will! The Fm2N is a tough and proven camera but it's not in the same league as an F3 and I've always sold mine after getting them as to me after F2's and 3's they feel cheap.
F2 is a great camera. I have 2 but the F3 is the nicer camera to use. AE and just feels more refined which of course it is!
nobbylon
Veteran
Cal,
what are you using to hold the DK17m to the DE2? I'd like to find a proper step ring as my solution is only temporary,
rgds j
what are you using to hold the DK17m to the DE2? I'd like to find a proper step ring as my solution is only temporary,
rgds j
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
John,
I haven't come up with anything yet that is an elegant solution, but I will because I'm stubborn. LOL.
A DE-1 0.80X1.2=0.96. This would be really helpful to me because I like 28mm FOV, but with SLR's the focus gets vague.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Joe,
A black paint F2 with a DE-1 prism is mighty small. In comparison, if you discount the small bump of the DE-1 prism it is shorter than a Leica M-body, but it is a little wider.
Rangefinder lenses are overall smaller than SLR glass, but the 45/2.8P AIS is a very flat pancake lens that offers a Tessar design and mucho contrast due to very few lens elements and that fantastic Nikon multicoating. No hood is needed.
An other great lens if you want to go small and wide is the Nikon 28/2.8 AIS. Make sure you get the AIS version because it is simply the best. CRC close focus, newest coatings and a 28 FOV that rivals Leica "R" glass.
The F3 has great metering: a F2 with DE-1 has no metering.
The F3 has a quieter smoother shutter because it is electronic: the F2 has a bomb proof mechanical shutter that's kinda loud. Reguardless I utilize the mirror lock-up for prolonged periods of time to relieve some of the mirror slap which quiets the camera, but know that the F2 will always be louder than any F3.
The F2 has this almost "German" overbuild and is the height of all mechanical Nikon SLR, but the F3 overall I think is a refinement. The film advance features ball bearings to eliminate friction for both a high frame rate and for durability. Perhaps the only other camera that can compare is my friend's M3-DS that has been constantly used for decades where the film advance literally offers no resistance.
The F2 prisms all offer 0.80 magnification and 100% viewing. What you see in the viewfinder is exactly what will be exposed onto the film. The DE-2 non HP VF'er offers the same 0.80 magnification of an F2 prism, but without the eye relief of the DE-3 HP prism which has a magnification of 0.75. The HP prism though can be boosted to 0.90 magnification by adding a DK-17 with no negatives (my favorite).
The difference between the DE-2 and DE-3 is hard to see unless you own both and can A-B a single camera and make a comparison by only changing prisms. The HP prism with its eye relief seems brighter, but the higher magnification of the non HP prism offers more and better contrast. Think about looking at a slide being projected at 25 and 30 feet. The same slide projected at 30 feet will seem brighter, but you have to realize that the contrast gets washed out. Also know that if you want the smaller camera that the DE-2 non HP prism is signifigantly smaller than the HP prism, but a F2 with DE-1 is smaller still.
While I built an exceptional F2 with DE-1 prism for $390.00 know that I bought a LN F3 for $150.00.
Cal
Joe AC
Well-known
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Joe,
On the current December NYC Meet-Up thread post number "60" are two pictures from the meet-up: one is the black paint F2 with DE-1; and the second is of a F3"P" ("P" is for Prada.) LOL.
Also take note of the rare/unusual aftermarket F3 grip.
If possible could you create a link for others interested. Even though I own a Monochrom I'm still an old analog slacker.
Cal
jwicaksana
Jakarta, Indonesia
Cal, did you get it from cameraleather? Is it their Natural Grain Kid Leather article? It does look very elegant I agree. I am so tempted with their Dark Grey Lizard skin for my new M4-P.
Paul Jenkin
Well-known
I've got a very nice black F3HP with MD4. The camera came with me and was my main camera on the drive my wife and I did along Route 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica. I loaded it up with XP2 Super and my FE with Provia 100f. Neither missed a beat but the F3HP was a joy to use as well as being a very solid tool.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Cal, did you get it from cameraleather? Is it their Natural Grain Kid Leather article? It does look very elegant I agree. I am so tempted with their Dark Grey Lizard skin for my new M4-P.
Jon,
I bought a square yard of this leather for $20.00 at a sample sale in NYC's garment district, and I cut out the leather using the old leatherette as a template. I basically used double sided tape to secure the old leatherette on top of the goat leather, but first I removed some of the tackiness by sticking the face that would touch the good side of the leather to my jeans a few times to avoid any damage.
The hard part to recovering any camera is removing the old covering, but the Nikon leathette came off intact and did not tear apart. Since I had great templates cutting out the leather was not difficult.
Perhaps not clear in the photo is that I left the DE-3 prism naked for a more minimalist look. My F3HP was in "Like New" condition before I upgraded it with the leather. What is remarkable is that I could find a Nikon Pro camera in this condition for only $150.00.
Cal
JChrome
Street Worker
The lighting is not the best for the left side of the camera. But here is Cal's F3HP.
BTW, that goat skin feels like butter...
BTW, that goat skin feels like butter...
nobbylon
Veteran
I've managed to get myself a well worn 28 AIS 2.8 for £55. It looks like it's been used professionally so i'll bet it's a good copy. It's got a few marks on the glass but nothing that will affect my pics. The 28 is a great lens to pair with the F3 and is the lens I used to use on my F2's and 3's before I sold the lot! Full circle again!
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
The lighting is not the best for the left side of the camera. But here is Cal's F3HP.
BTW, that goat skin feels like butter...
Jeremy,
Thanks for posting this for me. Is it possible to show that rare/unusual F3 grip either mounted on the F3 or separately? It is kinda interesting to anyone who owns a F3.
Cal
