Nikon F3 Tribute

Timmyjoe said:
Cal, when you get your Noct back, post a picture of it for those of us who aren't familiar with that lens. Then post some pictures taken with it.

Best,
-Tim
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Tim,

The next day My friend and I did the reverse trade on the steps of the Met.

Understand that I'm a lazy slacker, and I do not post. Sorry.

Lately kinda went SLR crazy and bought a R8, and a black SL2-MOT. For glass I bought a 50 Lux-R "E60." Another interesting lens like the Noct-Nikkor.

Cal
 
I Leitaxed a Leica 50 R Lux "E60" and mounted it on my F3P last night. I used a new "Almost-Auto-Aperture" Leitax mount that features a lever to open the iris like a perspective control lens. This mitigates a lot of the awkwrdness of having to use manual stop-down metering and the loss of an auto diaphram.

Anyways this rig is "brutal."

Anywys the 50 "E60" is a lot like my 50 Lux ASPH as far as rendering, but the OOF and bokeh has a kinda Noctilux look to them. A very cool blend of sharp and creamy that is kinda magic.

Cal
 
Have too many F3HPs (one in classified). They are all very solid compare to OM-4Ti and Pentax LX.
 

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Took the F3HP w/MD4, FM2n w/MD-12 and F2 on a little road trip this past weekend down the Mother Road (Route 66). The F2 was loaded with Ektar, so I'm still waiting for that film to get back from Dwayne's, but I processed all the rolls of Tri-X that were in the F3HP and FM2n. Doing the arduous task of scanning hundreds of images and noticed that with the rolls from the FM2n, I had about a 60% rate of keepers (about 20-21 shots per 36), but with the F3HP my keeper rate was about 80% (29-30 shots per 36).

So I guess that makes the F3HP a better camera, RIGHT!!! ;)
 
Timmyjoe said:
Took the F3HP w/MD4, FM2n w/MD-12 and F2 on a little road trip this past weekend down the Mother Road (Route 66). The F2 was loaded with Ektar, so I'm still waiting for that film to get back from Dwayne's, but I processed all the rolls of Tri-X that were in the F3HP and FM2n. Doing the arduous task of scanning hundreds of images and noticed that with the rolls from the FM2n, I had about a 60% rate of keepers (about 20-21 shots per 36), but with the F3HP my keeper rate was about 80% (29-30 shots per 36).

So I guess that makes the F3HP a better camera, RIGHT!!! ;)
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Tim,

To me the Pro camera with 100% view records what I see in the VF'er. To me this is a big deal.

I own a R8 and a Leica SL2-MOT. I love both cameras, but I wish they had 100% VF'ers.

Cal
 
I just rebuilt a Nikon F3 from the body up (I was given the body, it's been collecting dust at a local newspaper for the last couple of decades). New finder, focusing screen (B screen, NOS for $10 my favorite type too!), seals and mirror foam, md4 cover, etc. It was pretty much a hull. I'm enjoying it so far though. The wind is much smoother than my fm2n, maybe even the M6, though not my M3 DS. The shutter sounds more solid than the FM2n as well. I can't wait to get the film developed and see A. How well it shoots and B. if I rebuilt it right. It came with another beater body for spare parts if need be, 2 beat up 50mm f1.4's AI and a 85mm f2 AIS. I've got plenty of nikon glass to use with it, so it's a fun addition. The only problem is I've spent as much on the seals and parts as a beater sells on Ebay, =oP. I'm impressed that it still works so smoothly after sitting idle for so long as well.
 
This is a bump for other F3 threads.

I'll see if at this Sunday'sc NYC Meet-Up if I can get some shots posted of my F3HP that is disguised as a DF. LOL. Basically rigged a F3HP with an aftermarket grip, DF-18 Databack, and AH-4 Handstrap. Add on a Nikon AF-D 28/1.4 and it pretty much resembles a Nikon DF.

Another one of my famous "Monsters." LOL.

Cal
 
The MR-1/ MR-2 /MR-3 Shutter Release screws into the remote terminal on the motor drive and converts the terminal on Nikon motor drive to a release button. Since the F3P shutter button is not threaded, the MR-3 can be used with a [Nikon] cable release.

MR-1%20MR-2%20MR-3.jpg


Casey
 
Mudman said:
I just rebuilt a Nikon F3 from the body up (I was given the body, it's been collecting dust at a local newspaper for the last couple of decades). New finder, focusing screen (B screen, NOS for $10 my favorite type too!), seals and mirror foam, md4 cover, etc. It was pretty much a hull. I'm enjoying it so far though. The wind is much smoother than my fm2n, maybe even the M6, though not my M3 DS. The shutter sounds more solid than the FM2n as well. I can't wait to get the film developed and see A. How well it shoots and B. if I rebuilt it right. It came with another beater body for spare parts if need be, 2 beat up 50mm f1.4's AI and a 85mm f2 AIS. I've got plenty of nikon glass to use with it, so it's a fun addition. The only problem is I've spent as much on the seals and parts as a beater sells on Ebay, =oP. I'm impressed that it still works so smoothly after sitting idle for so long as well.
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Bearings for the film transport.

A great story that displays your character.

My friend John will be posting some pics of my F3HP disquised as a DF shortly.

Cal
 
For Cal... here are some Nikon F3 / Nikon DF pics. Also, a Canon F-1 as well...

Forgive the high ISO mixed light photos, but they were taken in a relatively dim bar.

23086316431_a71b15acb0_b.jpg


22453903793_c39d266a56_b.jpg
 
wakarimasen said:
Posted elsewhere, but I'll ask here too: does anyone know it it's possible to get the finder light fixed?
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Chances are it's a contact problem. It's very fiddly with some small contact plates and a rubber pad. I fixed one of mine a few years ago. The light itself is probably fine.
I apologise if this sounds like i'm telling you stuff you already know, but make sure you are not checking the light when the camera is off and or the meter circuit is not active. Turn camera on, press release to activate meter and then check the light.
 
nobbylon said:
Chances are it's a contact problem. It's very fiddly with some small contact plates and a rubber pad. I fixed one of mine a few years ago. The light itself is probably fine.
I apologise if this sounds like i'm telling you stuff you already know, but make sure you are not checking the light when the camera is off and or the meter circuit is not active. Turn camera on, press release to activate meter and then check the light.
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Thanks nobbylon - I just tried that and it's still unresponsive. I found this page and might have a go with my screwdrivers :eek:
 
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