Nikon F3 Tribute

According to Peter Braczko's book "The Complete Nikon System", the F3 Limited was only available in the Japanese home market. It's supposed to have a titanium-coated HP finder, a fixed focusing screen and no cable release thread in the shutter button. Seems it's an interesting piece.
 
SS,

If you don't wear glasses consider a DE-3 (HP), or DE-5 (P with the hot shoe) even though it has slightly less magnification because you can bump up the magnification further and higher by using a DK-17 magnifier.

this explains why my F3P finder felt smaller all of a sudden after using a F3HP before returning it, might buy an extra DE-3 then!

after owning a F3P, I'm ready to go back to a regular F3 (maybe a T)
Playing press photographer is fun, but an F4s scratches that itch for me
The first three frames don't bother me, I like the interlock, the raised controls don't matter to me, its on Aperture priority most of the time, and is always on (I don't know why the switch was such a big deal on the P, by having it on an MD4, you never have to use the cameras switch anyways), too valuable to actually abuse, and I don't need a motordrive...(the mf4b means its awkward without an md4)

The F3P is one of the few cameras that will be on my permanent collection ( Leica M3 being the other one), thinking of getting a FM3a next
 
Having an odd event with my F3-HP. When I was out shooting with it today, a couple times, after I advanced the film, when I went to push the shutter button, nothing happened. It felt "spongey", went all the way down to the stop, but did not trip the shutter. I know the film was advanced all the way. But it wouldn't trip the shutter. I let my finger off the shutter button, tapped it a few times, then pressed it again and it worked as normal. Happened twice on a walk-around today. Anyone else ever have this happen, and know what might be the cause.

Best,
-Tim
 
Not sure if this has been posted before...

I was looking for a -2 diopter for my Nikon F3P... the staff at a used camera shop said that for the F3 High Point Finder you can also use a diopter from the F801 (N8008), F100, and/or F90. He had an F-801 / N8008 eyepiece correction lens so I picked it up.

I have since found that its possible to buy the -2 eyepiece correction lens for the F100 / F90 / N90 / F-801 / N8008 as a new item at Yodobashi in Tokyo... Nikon Brand, made in Japan at USD 6.17. The same diopter from the big online NYC store seems to be USD 20.00.
 
About time this thread was brought back to life, there is much to read and appreciate here.
I have been playing a patient waiting game for an F3P, let down a couple of times by unscrupulous sellers on a certain auction site (why do I even bother to try) but a random glance in the usually very uninteresting local camera shop window had an F3HP for sale with MD-4 and 50mm f1.8 priced as one would expect for that camera. Except it was a P version. Isn't it good when even the camera shops are ignorant of the film camera heritage?
It has returned from my tech. with a new mirror bumper and light seals, he was most impressed with the condition given the early serial which points to press distribution.
Test film was great fun, the lens is a good example as well, as a bonus.

33576420130_a545c92c7e_c.jpg


33148323933_44656bafe5_c.jpg
 
About time this thread was brought back to life, there is much to read and appreciate here.
I have been playing a patient waiting game for an F3P, let down a couple of times by unscrupulous sellers on a certain auction site (why do I even bother to try) but a random glance in the usually very uninteresting local camera shop window had an F3HP for sale with MD-4 and 50mm f1.8 priced as one would expect for that camera. Except it was a P version. Isn't it good when even the camera shops are ignorant of the film camera heritage?
It has returned from my tech. with a new mirror bumper and light seals, he was most impressed with the condition given the early serial which points to press distribution.
Test film was great fun, the lens is a good example as well, as a bonus.

33576420130_a545c92c7e_c.jpg


33148323933_44656bafe5_c.jpg

Chris,

Congrates on your F3P. Yours is mighty clean.

My F3P was a real press camera once owned by "Newsday" and I got my camera after it came back from "Operation Desert Storm."

Consider getting a MF-18 that imprints the date between frames. Kinda hard to find. It kinda adds a comfortable thumb grip. Currently I have my F3P set up without a MD-4 and the tongue from my MF-18 is protected by the baseplate from some rare F3 aftermarket grip.

I have a Beattie Intenscreen with an oversized split prism, but what makes this camera so great is that I mounted my Leica 50 Lux "E60" on the F3P using a Leitax "almost auto aperture" F-mount flange. Basically there is a lever that opens the diaphram like on wide angle shift lenses. I use the middle finger of my left hand to open the iris and can still use my thumb and index finger to focus. To expose I release the lever and press the shutter after focusing.

I did not like the Leitax almost auto aperture on a D3X or F5. It seems that ergonomically the grip intruded on these cameras making utilization of the lever awkward. Also the 100% VF'er on the F3 is the reason why to shoot a SLR, meaning accurate framing. On my F3P the 50 Lux is awesome, and it became second nture using the almost auto aperture.

Unfortunately my Leica SL2-MOT and the R8 I owned do not have 100% VF'ers.

One other mod I invented is that I use the baseplate from a AH-4 Handstrap to hang my F3P vertically like a M5. Understand the right strap lug on my F3P is loose and wobbly, I bought it that way, but the bonus is that my F3P is more comfortable.

Don't forget the DK-17 magnifier.

Anyways my love for my F3P never went away...

A black 45/2.8 P AIS looks mighty evil on a F3P BTW. A contrasty lens due to NIC and having so few elements. With a MD-4 this tiny pancake lens with its short focus throw is great for street shooting. Also you see the contrast in the VF'er which also speeds up focusing due to its snap.

Cal
 
Chris,

Congrates on your F3P. Yours is mighty clean.

Cal

You know Cal I kind of knew, hoped, you would chime in, thanks, I shot a roll before sending it off and can't wait to get back on the street with it now.
Clean indeed as I said for such a relatively early number.
Your tips are appreciated indeed. I didn't shoot the strap in the rush to catch some light it is a Nikon period one that came with the body, I'm digging out my F2 Domke bag now :D
I do really fancy a 40mm, love the CV f1.4 on my M2, I had looked at the Nikon version from CV but I'll investigate that 45mm, thanks for the tip.
 
My most recent acquisition is a black F3/T with the DE-2 finder. It was sold as non-working and I planned to take it in for a CLA. Low and behold it fired up and works just fine! My guess is the seller had no idea there was the on/off switch on top....

Current kit for this is:

Hawkesmill strap (black/red)
50mm f1.8
28mm f2.8
AS-4 flash coupler
Nikon AR-9 black soft shutter release
Zing black standard neoprene camera case

One roll through so far with two more in the que for processing.

Below with 50mm f1.8 & Superia 400

Street Photography by Joe Lopez, on Flickr

Nikon F3/T black by Joe Lopez, on Flickr

Nikon F3/T by Joe Lopez, on Flickr
 
I used a F3HP for years along side other cameras. Never had an issue with it apart from lens weight and large bottom bit of the MD4 (and the batteries it went through). I used to forget that it was body-battery dependent and get stuck on a job and improvise, but hey thats what we do isn't it. All the best
gels
 
F3(s)

F3(s)

I used a F3HP for years along side other cameras. Never had an issue with it apart from lens weight and large bottom bit of the MD4 (and the batteries it went through). I used to forget that it was body-battery dependent and get stuck on a job and improvise, but hey thats what we do isn't it. All the best
gels
 
FullSizeRender by desmolicious, on Flickr

Not really liking the shutter release. The rubber boot for water resistance dulls the break point and needs more effort, so much so I much prefer the release on my F2. I'm hoping I get used to it.
 
I added the Md-4 motor drive and feel that it much improves the F3-P and Limited. Instead of dealing with the mushy, imprecise rubber covered shutter release button, the drive has a nice, crisp, short release.
 
Haven't seen this thread in a while. Well, my F3HP gave up the ghost. The electronics stopped working and was going to cost more than I paid for the camera to have it fixed. Turns out there's an achilles heel to the F3 in that part of the electronics circuitboard is below the rewind knob where the flash adapter mounts. Too much torque, from a big flash like the SB-28 can crack that circuitboard under the flash mount. That's what happened to mine. Bums me out as the rest of the camera was in good shape.

Best,
-Tim
 
Unfortunately, Nikon threw out all the spare parts for the F3 once the 10 year support period was up. A Nikon tech warned me years ago to be careful mounting a flash. The FRE (functional resistance element) that inputs the ASA/ISO is right under the flash, controlled by the ISO setting ring. A bad knock and your ASA settings are gone.

The only thing you can do now is to cannibalize another parts F3 with a good FRE.

This reminds me that I'd better start using the flash on a bracket with a TTL cable instead.
 
Unfortunately, Nikon threw out all the spare parts for the F3 once the 10 year support period was up. A Nikon tech warned me years ago to be careful mounting a flash. The FRE (functional resistance element) that inputs the ASA/ISO is right under the flash, controlled by the ISO setting ring. A bad knock and your ASA settings are gone.

The only thing you can do now is to cannibalize another parts F3 with a good FRE.

This reminds me that I'd better start using the flash on a bracket with a TTL cable instead.

I knew about circuit board (flex-board) issues with the F2. I didn't know the F3 suffered too. I've used F3s on and off for years. I never had a flash attached to the camera. I have an adapter for a flash shoe but, use it to hold a bubble level at times. I'll remember this issue.

I own 3 well cared for F3 HPs and one, like new, parts camera. I've not needed to get into the parts camera so far. I use these cameras along with two XAs for all my film work. I think if I continue to service them regularly, they may out live me.

A pal from Nikon USA stood next to the assembly women (Japan factory) as she built the last one in 2003(?). He told me the story. The F3 is/was Nikon's longest "in production" camera.
 
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