Nikon F3 Tribute

[Huss]

FullSizeRender by desmolicious, on Flickr

I knew about circuit board (flex-board) issues with the F2. I didn't know the F3 suffered too. I've used F3s on and off for years. I never had a flash attached to the camera. I have an adapter for a flash shoe but, use it to hold a bubble level at times. I'll remember this issue.

Which is why the F3-P and the F3 Limited (same camera) are the best of the F3 series. Hot shoe on top of the titanium prism.

 

[PKR]

Which is why the F3-P and the F3 Limited (same camera) are the best of the F3 series. Hot shoe on top of the titanium prism.

I was given a P by Nikon in 06. I tried to like it but, the hot shoe and the shutter knob, and other stuff I can't remember now, caused me to let it sit unused. I finally sold it. I used F3s with MD4s through out most of my heavy Kodachrome years. Most of the shutter speeds between 1/15 and 1/250 were used alot. I used 1/500 when doing aerials. Funny the stuff one remembers. I had to exercise the other speeds to keep the springs happy. I used the mirror lock-up a lot.. I was on a tripod every time I had the chance.

I also used FEs during the F2 years. I didn't like the F2. So, FEs with MD12s and my old F's until the F3 was around. I'm happy to still use them.

I use modern digital stuff for work, fine gear, but video-game-like sometimes.

Edit .. in looking at your photo, I didn't like the high rise shutter release. Too much time with a common F3 I guess.

 

[Huss]

Edit .. in looking at your photo, I didn't like the high rise shutter release. Too much time with a common F3 I guess.

I prefer the high rise shutter button, as well as the shutter speed dial. It's why I also have the AR-1 extended shutter release button on my Fs and F2s.
What I don't like is the mushy rubber covered shutter button, which is why I much prefer it with the MD-4.

 

[PKR]

I prefer the high rise shutter button, as well as the shutter speed dial. It's why I also have the AR-1 extended shutter release button on my Fs and F2s.
What I don't like is the mushy rubber covered shutter button, which is why I much prefer it with the MD-4.

I packed 2 F3s with MD4s plus a third F3 with a Forschier Polaroid back for a lot of years. Add to those, about 7-10 lenses, some heavy, and a bunch of lighting and gaffer gear. I was happy to dump the motors. Most of my color is digital, and those cameras are bigger, plus batteries and spares.. and other stuff that is a pain in the back. I mostly use a single F3 plus a 35 and 28, film in a small bag or in my pocket.
No motors.

You have me remembering .. lenses: 15, 18, 24, 28pc, 35, 55micro 2.8, 85 f1.8, 105 2.8 micro, 135 2.8, 180, 300 2.8, 400 5.6, 500 f8 cat, 1000 f11 cat. I did 90% of my work with the 35 and 55 micro. Next most used were the 24 and 105. I almost never used the 15. The two cats were bought for specific work. Same with the 300 2.8. I did use the 180 and 400 for a lot of personal stuff. Way too much gear.. oh, and I had a zoom for a while.

On most jobs I took the 18, 24, 28, 35, 55micro, 105micro (or 85) and 180.

 

[Huss]

It definitely is a boat anchor with the MD-4.
🙂

 

[PKR]

It definitely is a boat anchor with the MD-4.
🙂

I've often thought that with the few lenses I picked for my personal b+w work, I could have done almost all of my commercial Kodachrome work. A lot of my lens purchases were brought about by fear and my CPA telling me to spend money before April. I lived simply and just didn't spend much money. I was traveling a lot and on the client's dime. When home the last thing I wanted to do was lug camera gear around. I currently use a 20 f4, 28, 35 50, 105 2.5, and 200 f4 micro. All take the same 52mm filters.

I could likely gotten good results with FA cameras plus motors, with one F3 in the mix.

Hindsight is a B***h. I didn't have the balls to pack light back then. I do now. With no regrets.

Work gear is some digital cameras, one micro and some zooms, in two formats. I'm making that stuff a smaller pile now. I have no attachment to any of it. Not like the F3s.

 

[JoeLopez]

Which is why the F3-P and the F3 Limited (same camera) are the best of the F3 series. Hot shoe on top of the titanium prism.

The best only if ever use flash with your F3 perhaps 🙂

 

[presspass]

Did not know that about the flash coupler and the circuit board. Thanks. Now I'll go back to the big Metz units with their TTL connectors. More weight is just what an F3/MD4 needs.

 

[Calzone]

I recently gifted a minty F3 HP to a friend going through a rough divorce, a dad with young kids. He just needed something positive in his life.

I still have my F3P. I had my Noct-Nikkor cleaned. The tightness in the helicoil when close focusing is gone. I'm using a "E" screen with a grid, even though I have a Beattie Intenscreen with an oversized split prism.

This is still a very important rig for me. I've owned it a long time.

Cal

 

[Kent]

F3HP here. 🙂

 

[Gregm61]

Unfortunately, Nikon threw out all the spare parts for the F3 once the 10 year support period was up. A Nikon tech warned me years ago to be careful mounting a flash. The FRE (functional resistance element) that inputs the ASA/ISO is right under the flash, controlled by the ISO setting ring. A bad knock and your ASA settings are gone.

The only thing you can do now is to cannibalize another parts F3 with a good FRE.

This reminds me that I'd better start using the flash on a bracket with a TTL cable instead.

I've broken/cracked two of those resister plates underneath the ISO dial/flash shoe by banging the flash while mounted on the body. While they were still being made, Nikon sold those (glass) resister plates for $25. I thought at one point about buying a stash of them to sell later on eBay, knowing someday they'd stop making them and, no doubt, F3's with those broken would soon start cropping up.

 

[PKR]

I pulled out the camera I've been using for a while, and out of curiosity pushed the little red button on the finder to see if the backlight would light. It blinked a bit and came on strong. It's likely the switch was dirty. I doubt it's been pushed in 10 years. I need to remember to rotate the ASA dial to clean it.. on the other two bodies.

I guess I should mention advice from my repairman.. always store cameras on their backs with lens up. He says this prevents lubricants from draining to the bottom of the body when stored vertically. I've been doing it for years.

 

[Calzone]

I pulled out the camera I've been using for a while, and out of curiosity pushed the little red button on the finder to see if the backlight would light. It blinked a bit and came on strong. It's likely the switch was dirty. I doubt it's been pushed in 10 years. I need to remember to rotate the ASA dial to clean it.. on the other two bodies.

PKR,

That light for the LCD display is wonky at best. I modded my F3P and used a small piece of matchbook cover to keep the light switch engaged (always on). Basically the light is on anytime the meter is on. If you shoot at night trying to perform a meter reading is awkward because the LCD is not a LED.

If you use a MD-4 the battery drain is moot, and even during the day the lamp makes it easier to set an exposure, but without the power coming from the MD-4 expect frequent battery changes if a MD-4 is not used.

Cal

 

[PKR]

PKR,

That light for the LCD display is wonky at best. I modded my F3P and used a small piece of matchbook cover to keep the light switch engaged (always on). Basically the light is on anytime the meter is on. If you shoot at night trying to perform a meter reading is awkward because the LCD is not a LED.

If you use a MD-4 the battery drain is moot, and even during the day the lamp makes it easier to set an exposure, but without the power coming from the MD-4 expect frequent battery changes if a MD-4 is not used. I carry a little LED light that's about the size of a quarter. I shine that into the little frosted window if I need to read the LCD when it's dark.

Cal

Hi Cal; I never use the light. Just curious to see if it worked. No more motors! If I want motor advance I'll use a lighter weight camera. I packed F3 +MD4s around for too many years. My battery life is more than a year. I carry spares in my bag.

You might know.. I have a DW4 that I use at times. Do you know if any of the newer right angle finders fit the HP finder?

pkr

 

[Calzone]

Hi Cal; I never use the light. Just curious to see if it worked. No more motors! If I want motor advance I'll use a lighter weight camera. I packed F3 +MD4s around for too many years. My battery life is more than a year. I carry spares in my bag.

You might know.. I have a DW4 that I use at times. Do you know if any of the newer right angle finders fit the HP finder?

pkr

PKR,

I read your post about carrying a crazy amount of gear. Kinda crazy the life of a working pro.

At this point I don't mind big or heavy cameras, as long as I only have to carry one. It seems I have "Linhof Disease" and don't mind walking around with half a bowling ball to make a good 120 negative. For digital I have a SL with the "monster" 50 Lux AF-SL that is a 5 1/2 pound rig. The Linhof's are around 7-7 1/2 pounds loaded and ready to shoot.

At the age of almost 60 when I bought the Linhof's I knew I was also getting a free gym membership. LOL.

As you know the DK-17 magnifier was developed for the F5, but it fits the F3 HP prism as well as the Nikon Pro digital cameras like a D3X.

A right angle finder that fits either the F5 or any of the Nikon Pro DSLR's should work. Basically the later cameras with highpoint finders. That basically is all I know. The right angle attachment I believe you want is for copystand work.

Hope this helps.

Cal

 

[Huss]

The DK-17 is also great on the F6, but that is taking this thread off topic.
Cal, how do you like the mushy rubber covered shutter release button on the F3-P? I pretty much hate it, which is why I'm using the MD-4.

 

[Timmyjoe]

As you know the DK-17 magnifier was developed for the F5, but it fits the F3 HP prism as well as the Nikon Pro digital cameras like a D3X.

The DK-17M is a Godsend. I use it with D4, D700, Df, F6, F5, F3HP, it just makes manual focusing my old AIS and AI lenses a breeze, even for these old eyes. I think everyone should have one in their kit.

Best,
-Tim

 

[Calzone]

The DK-17 is also great on the F6, but that is taking this thread off topic.
Cal, how do you like the mushy rubber covered shutter release button on the F3-P? I pretty much hate it, which is why I'm using the MD-4.

Huss,

The boot never bothered me, but I can also understand how the sponge of the rubber changes the feel which you dislike.

On CameraQuest there is a shot of a F3P that has a torn boot. I'm not so sure if a standard shutter release is underneath, but I would see if the rubber boot could be removed. I would not do anything that could not be reversed. Since you are near L.A. you could visit a repair shop and inquire about having the boot removed.

I got so use to the F3P that I found using a F3 or F3 HP as being annoying. For one thing is the loading. On the P I don't get 80 in the display and often I get bonus frames. On reloading I don't have to engage a safety lock to open the back door. To me the "P" has enough different features to make it a very different camera than a regular F3: like the lack of double exposure.

I know PKR did not like the oversized controls, but I kinda prefer them.

Currently I have my F3P rigged with a freshly serviced Noct-Nikkor AIS, "E" screen, AH-4 base plate from an AH-4 handstrap so that my F3P hangs like a M5 on a yellow and black thin Nikon strap. I have a databack that imprints the date inbetween frames and some uncommon aftermarket grip that I bought here in the RFF classified that I have never-ever seen another one. The grip looks like the F2 grip that someone posted in a recent thread here in the forum.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

The DK-17M is a Godsend. I use it with D4, D700, Df, F6, F5, F3HP, it just makes manual focusing my old AIS and AI lenses a breeze, even for these old eyes. I think everyone should have one in their kit.

Best,
-Tim

Tim,

I wish the DK-17 could fit a F2. I would love to get another black paint F2 with a later serial number with a DE-1 prism. It would be the ultimate compact film SLR for me with 100% VF'er.

The F1.2 of a Noct-Nikkor along with a red-dot screen and a DK-17 has the most wonderful focus snap and wonderfully bright and contrasty VF'er.

Someone should 3-D print either an adapter or a replacement housing so a DK-17 can fit a F2 and other non-HP finders.

The F3 non-HP prism actually has a higher magnification finder than the HP version, but the use of a DK-17 takes that magnification further. The ultimate would be is to be able to use a DK-17 on Nikon non-HP finders for the most magnification.

Hmmmm... Yumm-Yumm.

Cal

 

[PKR]

PKR,

I read your post about carrying a crazy amount of gear. Kinda crazy the life of a working pro.

At this point I don't mind big or heavy cameras, as long as I only have to carry one. It seems I have "Linhof Disease" and don't mind walking around with half a bowling ball to make a good 120 negative. For digital I have a SL with the "monster" 50 Lux AF-SL that is a 5 1/2 pound rig. The Linhof's are around 7-7 1/2 pounds loaded and ready to shoot.

At the age of almost 60 when I bought the Linhof's I knew I was also getting a free gym membership. LOL.

As you know the DK-17 magnifier was developed for the F5, but it fits the F3 HP prism as well as the Nikon Pro digital cameras like a D3X.

A right angle finder that fits either the F5 or any of the Nikon Pro DSLR's should work. Basically the later cameras with highpoint finders. That basically is all I know. The right angle attachment I believe you want is for copystand work.

Hope this helps.

Cal

Thanks it does. I'll look into getting one. I use the finders for a low angle when making portraits.

In the film days I worked in two formats. 35 and 4x5. I owned a couple of Sinar Fs over the years. It's a light weight rail camera with full movements. Most of my travel with it was local. I never had to fly with it. It was used for location still life shots and some outdoor work. Great camera. I didn't own any medium format stuff until I really began doing a lot of portraits. When I switched to digital, I sold all the non 35mm gear.

I know the Linhof flat bed, if that's what you have? A pal in school had one. Very cool camera with the cam focusing. Take extra good care of your film holders. Don't bang them around, etc.

pkr