Nikon F6 - where can I buy one new?

[Ko.Fe.]

Nah. I have M lenses. But my SLR lenses have no aperture rings. Instead it is wheel on the camera. No significant difference.

 

[Ted Striker]

The situation is like this: if I had bought a second hand F6, I would have still found it very difficult to buy lenses. Why is that? Because I bought the new F6 in 12 installments. Which means that it's actually easier for me to buy new than second hand. Buying second hand would have put me even in a more difficult situation for a couple of months simply because I would have forced to put on the table a much larger sum at once.


And, speaking of lenses, should I get the G lenses? Coming from the world rangefinders, having a lens without an aperture ring is nothing short of a abomination. I'm sure this topic has been discussed to death, but I still want to hear a few opinions on the matter.


Regards,
Alex

I agree with Huss. The F6 really shines with fully automatic lenses. I would not worry about aperture rings with a camera like this. Get whatever G lens you can afford.

 

[Huss]

Thank you for the advice. Surely, the 50/1.8 is on the short list. But so is the 50/1.4. Still hard to digest the idea that no aperture ring is better than aperture ring. 🙂

When i bought my 1.8g I spent waay too much time researching it vs the 1.4g and the consensus is/was the 1.8 is better.
Sharper, flares less, focuses better, cheaper.

 

[Skiff]

I agree with Huss. The F6 really shines with fully automatic lenses.

The F6 shines with several different lens types, that is one of its numerous strengths:
AI and AI-S (with even matrix metering), AI-P, AF, AF-D, AF-S, VR and G type lenses.
The F6 can even be modified to use pre-AI lenses.
The only limitation is E-type lenses, which can only be used with full open aperture.

To the OP: If you don't have any older Nikon film bodies which need an aperture ring, you will not have any problem with buying a G type lens like the current Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50 G.
Advantage of the AF-D lenses with aperture ring is that
- they can be used on older Nikon film bodies as well
- the aperture can also be used with 1/3 stops via the aperture command dial (like the G lenses).

Here you find test reviews about Nikon lenses:
- https://www.opticallimits.com/
- https://www.lenstip.com/
- http://www.photodo.com/
- http://bythom.com/camera-lens-and-accessory/nikon-and-third-party-lens.html#.XHE1oaBCcdU
- https://www.ephotozine.com/iamnikon/reviews
- http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html
- http://nikongear.net/revival/

 

[Skiff]

Forget about wanting an aperture ring with the AF lenses. I was like that too until I tried those lenses. The aperture dials on Nikon’s AF lenses (that I tried) are horrible and plasticky feeling with lots of stick. Not smooth, precise and beautiful like on the AIS lenses.
After I used it once I just used the camera body to control the aperture.

I have to disagree here: I don't have any problems with the 24-50 AF-D, 28-70 AF-D, the 28-70 AF-S, the 28-105 AF-D, the 1.8/50 AF-D, the 1.8/85 AF-D, the 2/105 AF-D and 4/300 AF-S.
With all these lenses I can even set the aperture ring at 1/3 stops difference manually.

 

[p.giannakis]

.
[.....]
The Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50 is almost a legendary lens along with being small and inexpensive.

I had both this and the older 50 f1.8 D. The newer AF-S is improved when shot at wide aperture (f/1.8 - f/3.5) and is dead quiet but on my F5 it had the tendency to "double check" for focus in low light conditions. Never had this problem with the older "D" version. This, together with the fact that it is a bulkier lens made me sell it and kept the older "D". Never missed it, never looked back.

 

[Skiff]

The light meter on the F6 is biased for slide film, i.e. it leans to underexposure so as not to lose highlights. When I shoot colour negative film, I set it for 1/2 stop over exposure.

I cannot confirm from my experience (more than a decade using F6 with hundreds of shot rolls) that the F6 light meter generally leans to under exposure. The light meter in 3D-color-matrix mode is extremely precise. Perfect results in about 99% of all cases. In the rest 1% it is only 1/3 or max. 2/3 stops away from perfect exposure. So even with reversal film in these rare cases you get good to usable results.
In very strong backlight situations exposing can be a bit on the underexposed side (typical for all internal object light meters). In such situations bracketing with exposures to the plus + side is helpful.

 

[Skiff]

I had both this and the older 50 f1.8 D. The newer AF-S is improved when shot at wide aperture (f/1.8 - f/3.5) and is dead quiet but on my F5 it had the tendency to "double check" for focus in low light conditions. Never had this problem with the older "D" version. This, together with the fact that it is a bulkier lens made me sell it and kept the older "D". Never missed it, never looked back.

I have both, the older 1.8/50 AF-D and the current AF-S 1.8/50 G.
I can confirm that the newer is sharper in the f1.8 - f3.5 range. Both in the centre and at the corners.
I have not any AF problems with the newer one. Neither on the F5 nor on the F6.
We have to consider that sample variation can lead to different results from different users.

In a side by side comparison of the AF-D 1.8/50 to the AF-S 1.8/50 I've got the following results:
Advantages of the AF-S:
- better sharpness and contrast in the f1.8 - f3.5 range in the centre and the corners
- less flares
- AF-S allows to override AF manually at every time
- silent AF (not important for me personally)

Disadvantages of the AF-S:
- a bit more distortion (but not problematic)
- slight focus-shift at very narrow distances.

Advantages of the AF-D:
- distortion-free
- no focus shift
- extremely light and compact
- cheaper
- aperture ring allows usage on older film bodies

Disadvantages of the AF-D:
- less sharp and contrasty in the f1.8 -f3.5 range
- no AF override
- more prone to flares than the AF-S type in direct sun
- AF a bit louder (irrelevant for me personally).

 

[HHPhoto]

I cannot confirm from my experience (more than a decade using F6 with hundreds of shot rolls) that the F6 light meter generally leans to under exposure. The light meter in 3D-color-matrix mode is extremely precise. Perfect results in about 99% of all cases. In the rest 1% it is only 1/3 or max. 2/3 stops away from perfect exposure. So even with reversal film in these rare cases you get good to usable results.
In very strong backlight situations exposing can be a bit on the underexposed side (typical for all internal object light meters). In such situations bracketing with exposures to the plus + side is helpful.

+1.
The 3D-Color-Matrix-Metering of the F6 is by far the best and most precise metering system I've ever used.
And I have dozens of different cameras used.

Cheers, Jan

 

[alexandru_voicu]

Hi everyone,

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the lenses, I shall keep them in mind. It will take some time until the first purchase, because I don't want to buy the lens(es) before the camera arrives. I'll keep you posted.

Did I hear something about focus shift? 🙂 I must admit, THAT I'm really tired of. I spent ten years of my life trying to compensate for focus shift. I was hoping that Nikkor lenses suffer less from this affliction. If I were a lens designer, my first commandment would be: thou shall not shift.

Regards,
Alex

 

[Skiff]

Did I hear something about focus shift? 🙂 I must admit, THAT I'm really tired of. I spent ten years of my life trying to compensate for focus shift. I was hoping that Nikkor lenses suffer less from this affliction. If I were a lens designer, my first commandment would be: thou shall not shift.

Regards,
Alex

Alex, I can completely understand your frustration about focus shift. It is indeed an ugly effect. I hate it!
From a physical point of view, generally all lenses have this effect. But it is possible for optical engineers to correct this optical "error" to a degree that it is not visible / significant anymore.
For example Zeiss has corrected their Otus and Milvus lenses in such an excellent way that there is no visible focus shift.

Concerning Nikon: Unfortunately some lenses suffer from focus shift, but other Nikkors don't. The same is valid for the current Sigma "art" lenses.
So you have to look at the specific lens in detail, whether it suffers from focus shift or not.

Concerning current 50mm lenses for Nikon: The Zeiss Milvus 1.4/50, Milvus 2/50 and the Nikkor AF-D 1.8/50 and former AI-S 1.8/50 (long barrel version) fortunately don't suffer from focus shift.
The Sigma Art 1.4/50 and the Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50G do show some focus shift.
But fortunately the Nikkor has only some very low/slight focus shift at very short distances (0.45m - 1m). In most situations you won't have any problems.

 

[Skiff]

But fortunately the Nikkor has only some very low/slight focus shift at very short distances (0.45m - 1m). In most situations you won't have any problems.

Fortunately I have to correct myself in a positive way 🙂.
The statement above I've made from my memory. But to be 100% certain I've just made a new focus shift test for you with my DSLR and the Spyder Lens Cal tool, which is perfect for tests of focus shifts.
At 1m there is absolutely no visible focus shift with the Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50G. Even in 100% view no focus shift visible!

There is only some very low/slight focus shift at minimum distance of 0.45m. But you need the 100% view to see it.
So nothing to worry about in daily photography 🙂.

 

[HHPhoto]

I have both, the older 1.8/50 AF-D and the current AF-S 1.8/50 G.
I can confirm that the newer is sharper in the f1.8 - f3.5 range. Both in the centre and at the corners.
I have not any AF problems with the newer one. Neither on the F5 nor on the F6.
We have to consider that sample variation can lead to different results from different users.

In a side by side comparison of the AF-D 1.8/50 to the AF-S 1.8/50 I've got the following results:
Advantages of the AF-S:
- better sharpness and contrast in the f1.8 - f3.5 range in the centre and the corners
- less flares
- AF-S allows to override AF manually at every time
- silent AF (not important for me personally)

Disadvantages of the AF-S:
- a bit more distortion (but not problematic)
- slight focus-shift at very narrow distances.

Advantages of the AF-D:
- distortion-free
- no focus shift
- extremely light and compact
- cheaper
- aperture ring allows usage on older film bodies

Disadvantages of the AF-D:
- less sharp and contrasty in the f1.8 -f3.5 range
- no AF override
- more prone to flares than the AF-S type in direct sun
- AF a bit louder (irrelevant for me personally).

From my experiences with both lenses I can confirm all of that.
I just want to add some further advantages of the recent Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50G:
+ a bit better bokeh
+ wider manual focus ring
+ rubber ring at the lens mount = better dust and water protection in usage outdoor
+ lens is shipped with hood (a really good one with bajonet) and soft pouch included.

Cheers, Jan

 

[alexandru_voicu]

Fortunately I have to correct myself in a positive way 🙂.
The statement above I've made from my memory. But to be 100% certain I've just made a new focus shift test for you with my DSLR and the Spyder Lens Cal tool, which is perfect for tests of focus shifts.
At 1m there is absolutely no visible focus shift with the Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50G. Even in 100% view no focus shift visible!

There is only some very low/slight focus shift at minimum distance of 0.45m. But you need the 100% view to see it.
So nothing to worry about in daily photography 🙂.

Thank you, Skiff. The lack of focus shift does count for a lot.

 

[alexandru_voicu]

From my experiences with both lenses I can confirm all of that.
I just want to add some further advantages of the recent Nikkor AF-S 1.8/50G:
+ a bit better bokeh
+ wider manual focus ring
+ rubber ring at the lens mount = better dust and water protection in usage outdoor
+ lens is shipped with hood (a really good one with bajonet) and soft pouch included.

Cheers, Jan

Jan, after reading your post (and Skiff's), I'll go with the 50/1.8. Hard to do that after just getting the Nokton 50/1.2 in M mount, but I have to learn to live with the "puny" F1.8. 🙂

 

[alexandru_voicu]

Hi everyone,


While still waiting for my F6, I started looking for lenses. My favorite local store has a fantastic discount for the Tamron SP 45mm f/1.8. With that discount, the Tamron is only marginally more expensive than the Nikkor 50/1.8G. However, the SP has VC and some other nice features. Which begs the question: is the Tamron VC (Vibration Compensation) compatible with the F6? And if it's not, should I get the Tamron or the Nikkor 50/1.8G?


Many thanks,
Alex

 

[Out to Lunch]

Hi Alex, You are not the first one asking this question.... https://www.flickr.com/groups/375799@N24/discuss/72157701024772574/ As for myself, I have the EOS 3 which takes EF lenses of which I have a few. Good luck with your decision.

 

[alexandru_voicu]

Hi Alex, You are not the first one asking this question.... https://www.flickr.com/groups/375799@N24/discuss/72157701024772574/ As for myself, I have the EOS 3 which takes EF lenses of which I have a few. Good luck with your decision.

Hi Peter and thank you for the link. I too had founded it when googling for a solution. It seems, however, I cannot find a proper answer.

 

[Out to Lunch]

Hi Alex, just contact BHPhoto on chat and ask them -considering they are selling the F6.

 

[james.liam]

Hi everyone,


While still waiting for my F6, I started looking for lenses. My favorite local store has a fantastic discount for the Tamron SP 45mm f/1.8. With that discount, the Tamron is only marginally more expensive than the Nikkor 50/1.8G. However, the SP has VC and some other nice features. Which begs the question: is the Tamron VC (Vibration Compensation) compatible with the F6? And if it's not, should I get the Tamron or the Nikkor 50/1.8G?


Many thanks,
Alex

Congratulations on the F6! Can't comment on new Tamron primes (though the zooms are much superior to their older ones).
The Sigma ART series gives you both AF and optics often superior to Nikkor or at minimum, their match at <1/2 the price. Amazing build as well.