Nikon S2 Focus Patch

[Larry Cloetta]

Even the rangefinder patch in the Nikon S3 2000 I examined was low contrast. That's not a 50 year old camera. Maybe that's why there are more than a few threads on this site that have discussed how to improve the contrast on those cameras. And old SP's are known to have a faint secondary image. The one S2 I owned was pretty low contrast too, and that was after cleaning. And this is the same issue that the original poster apparently faced.

FWIW, the rf on the nice S3 2000 I owned was not as contrasty as the rf on my ancient S2 or SP. Others have noted this in the past regarding S3s of any vintage. Not saying that is everywhere and always the case, but was noticeable with my samples, and a laborious google search will second this (though a google search will validate anything one wants to believe.)
Even then, it never presented any difficulty in quick focusing. FWIW.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Nikon S2, Zeiss Sonnar 50mm f/1.5 uncoated, 400-2TMY.

Erik.

 

[richardHaw]

arrived late. apart from the previously mentioned mod wherein the glass is tinted (some people actually cut a piece of glass panel from a warming filter for that), I was advised that dirt is the main culprit that can make the RF look fuzzy. I opened up a Kuribayashi (Petri) RF before and found this to be exactly the case. It may be what many Nikon RFs need now, a good cleaning. I have seen this done before and the space in between the prism varies from almost non to the width of a lens tissue.

I am going to service my S and S3, I will definitely clean the halfmirror if I have the time and probably do the warming filter glass mod that I mentioned. I dont know why it has to be amber but it may be because the S2's tinted that way but what do I know.

most Japanese RF of the time and probably after have feathered edges. do note that this observation come from observing junk cameras so please correct me if I am wrong.

personally, I like the S2 patch the most. Leica's patch is bright and contrasty but may be a little too much for me.

 

[Erik van Straten]

The only difference between Nikon and Leica rangefinders that really matters is the fact that Leicas can focus closer, up to 0.70 m. For Nikons the limit is 0.90 m.

Erik.

 

[Highway 61]

I am going to service my S and S3, I will definitely clean the halfmirror if I have the time and probably do the warming filter glass mod that I mentioned. I dont know why it has to be amber but it may be because the S2's tinted that way but what do I know.

The warming filter glass trick won't work in a Nikon RF. It will darken the RF patch but won't inhance its contrast. Their beamplitter prisms are of a different design than the Leica screwmounts'.

The only aftermarket tip which has proved to work so far is a blue filter all over the Nikon S3 front VF main window. But you have to like how the camera looks then, and to accept to frame using a blue tinted viewfinder.

Other than that, a good cleaning of the rear 45° side of the RF half-mirror is what must be done in all cases.

The S2 RF patch is amber tinted because the beamsplitter prism is gold layered, as were the Contax rangefinders (but for the late series of the IIa and IIIa Contaxes which had a platinum layered beamsplitter prism).

 

[richardHaw]

The warming filter glass trick won't work in a Nikon RF. It will darken the RF patch but won't inhance its contrast. Their beamplitter prisms are of a different design than the Leica screwmounts'.

The only aftermarket tip which has proved to work so far is a blue filter all over the Nikon S3 front VF main window. But you have to like how the camera looks then, and to accept to frame using a blue tinted viewfinder.

Other than that, a good cleaning of the rear 45° side of the RF half-mirror is what must be done in all cases.

The S2 RF patch is amber tinted because the beamsplitter prism is gold layered, as were the Contax rangefinders (but for the late series of the IIa and IIIa Contaxes which had a platinum layered beamsplitter prism).

Thanks, Highway (Sorry, I don't know your name.).

That should save me a bit of headache😱😱😱
Thanks for the tip! As for amber, I have no idea, really. Is it because people prefer that? Or they don't know any better?

I have a cooling filter somewhere in my spares box...let me look for it.

 

[MaxElmar]

RE: Nikon S2 RF - Cleaning Success!

jonmanjiro -

I just wanted to thank you for posting about the necessity of cleaning BEHIND the small prism on the S2. It made a huge difference on my camera! It went from so-so to "BOOM there it is." I could not figure out how to remove the arm, but I was able to slide in a folded cleaning paper from the front.

This is somewhat counter intuitive - thank you for sharing! I would have never figured it out on my own. Now I know how good a Nikon RF can be. Off to put some film through it.

Regards,

MaxElmar

 

[Erik van Straten]

I was able to slide in a folded cleaning paper from the front

Yes, they made a small opening to do that. It is not neccessary to remove the top plate. My focusing spot is now almost too bright.

Nikon S2, Nikkor 28mm f/3.5, Tmax400.

Erik.

 

[jonmanjiro]

RE: Nikon S2 RF - Cleaning Success!

jonmanjiro -

I just wanted to thank you for posting about the necessity of cleaning BEHIND the small prism on the S2. It made a huge difference on my camera! It went from so-so to "BOOM there it is." I could not figure out how to remove the arm, but I was able to slide in a folded cleaning paper from the front.

This is somewhat counter intuitive - thank you for sharing! I would have never figured it out on my own. Now I know how good a Nikon RF can be. Off to put some film through it.

Regards,

MaxElmar

"BOOM there it is." !!!

Another Nikon S2 recovered back to excellent focusing like it's meant to! That's great to hear. Glad my post was helpful 🙂

 

[phrons]

Yes, they made a small opening to do that. It is not neccessary to remove the top plate. My focusing spot is now almost too bright.

You can do this without removing the top plate?

How so?

 

[Fraser]

What about cleaning s3 without removing the top?

 

[jonmanjiro]

Nikon S2 Focus Patch

You can do this without removing the top plate?



How so?

* remove front plate
* remove the small window that covers the half-mirror prism
* clean all 3 surfaces of the half-mirror prism including the hard to access angled surface

To clean that hard to access angled surface, carefully slide a small piece of lens cleaning paper dampened with lens cleaning fluid wrapped around a piece of film (or something else that's very thin and rigid) cut to size into the small gap on the left side, and gently slide it along the back of the prism. Be gentle, and be careful not to get the lens cleaning paper stuck in there. Repeat as needed until the surface is clean. Cleaning this surface will make the most difference.

You can also remove the larger window over the main finder prism and clean the front surface of the main prism and the rear of the larger window.

What about cleaning s3 without removing the top?

The above will also work on an S3.

 

[Erik van Straten]

To clean that hard to access angled surface, carefully slide a small piece of lens cleaning paper dampened with lens cleaning fluid wrapped around a piece of film (or something else that's very thin and rigid) cut to size into the small gap on the left side

Very good works a thin piece of bamboo cut with a sharp knife from a chop stick or a plastic dental stick.

Erik.

 

[WJJ3]

A question about cleaning the prism (as shown by Jon) - checking its condition as suggested above, mine is very hazy. So do you have to take the top plate off to ckean the prism 45 diagonal? I took of the front plate bit was unable to get cleaning tissue more than 2 mm behind the diagonal prism surface.
TIA
David

I was able to clean the rear 45º angle on the rangefinder prism using cleaning paper and a narrow strip of film. I cut a strip of developed film the same width as the opening, and layered a strip of cleaning paper with it of the same width, then I put a tiny amount of cleaning fluid on the paper and inserted it into the slot. Since the film is fairly rigid it guided the cleaning paper in deep enough to clean the entire rear surface of the prism. Worked like a charm, and my rangefinder patch is really nice and bright now 🙂

 

[phrons]

Wow thanks for all the responses.

One question:

Can I use the film strip by itself in one long piece cut to size? Or should I use tweezers? I ask because I tend to be sloppy with tweezers and drop things.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Can I use the film strip by itself in one long piece cut to size?

You don't need tweezers, but you'll need a high quality jewellers screwdriver to remove the small mounted glassplate in front of the prism. You'll have to look good what you are doing, so a binoculair loupe will be handy.

Erik.

 

[MaxElmar]

I think I said "folded paper" but I really used a thin (~5mm) strip of clean, smooth, high quality card stock (business card) wetted with 1 small drop of cleaning fluid. Whatever you use, make sure it is sturdy enough (when wet) that it will not leave any bits or fibers behind. I had the top off, so it was easy to see what was going on.

 

[phrons]

Okay I have plenty of film ends, and plenty of business cards. No binocular loupe but do have a magnifier thats used for soddering breadboards so that should work.

Will have to finish the roll in the camera first. Hopefully get to it this weekend to report back.

 

[Fraser]

I think I will give a try too, cheers.