Nikon S3-2000 Frame Counter Broken

scorpius73

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The frame counter on my Nikon S3 is broken. I will not advance and it will not reset when I take the back off the camera. I'm really annoyed because I just bought it about 3 wks ago from another RFF member in perfect cosmetic condition. I have run 3 rolls through it and now this. How easy is it to repair myself or how much should it cost to send out? Thanks.
 
Something similar happened to my original S3: the reset "sensor" is at the bottom of the take-up spool. Putting the back onto the camera pushes the mechanical latch up, and engages the counting mechanism. If the switch is loose, or somehow is not engaging, the film counter will not advace. Mine was loose, and a simple tightening of the retaining screw corrected it.
 
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Ok. Here is an update. Nervously firing the shutter while reading the repair manaul. The camera has reset. But will not advance past frame 4.
 
I have encountered one S3 2000 on which the frame counter would get stuck at 16 and advance no further. It would remain there even when the back was removed as well, until tapping the frame counter cover with a finger. The cause ended up being the glue used to glue the plastic frame counter window to the counter cover. Too much was used, so the excess was pressing down onto the actual counter dial. Once removed, the counter worked fine.

Another problem could be that the back is a little loose on the camera. Seen that a few times too with the reissues. It's an easy fix too.
 
First thing is to remove the counter cover by loosing the three set screws and see what happens. One of these set screws tightened too much may make the counter plate bind. The counter is not "broken" - if the counter plate spring was broken or unhooked, neither would the counter advance or reset, never ever. So it's a basic and begnin binding issue.

This counter, installed on the Nikon SP, S3 and F, is very robust and easy to fix.
 
I took a look at my SP's removable door. The hook on the back door that I believe resets the counter the S3 is bent at one edge.
 
Jermaine, if the back is a little loose it won't press up tight against the chrome button that needs to be held pressed in to make the counter work. You can remove any loosness by slightly bending downward the tab indicated by the arrow in the photo below. You don't need to bend it much!

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and it will not reset when I take the back off the camera.
If the problem was with a loose back door, the counter would have difficulties to advance and in any case would always reset when the camera back is taken off.

As for a counter getting stuck at some point and not resetting when the camera back is taken off, the problem is way more lilkely to be w/ the counter plate slightly binding in its soft metal housing. Removing the counter cover and looking at what happens there is what to do. It's only a question of a fraction of millimeter between a counter that works flawlessly and a counter that binds at some point.

I've had the very same problem on my SP and it got corrected after a few minutes of homework.
 
Problem solved:
The chrome button that is connected to the frame counter through the shaft had been too tight. I had moved the notch on the back door up and nothing happened. I figured it had something to do with the chrome button. I got a set of plyers and put them into the two indentions of the sides of the chrome button. A quick turn to the left (remember righty tighty lefty loosy?) and it reset. Now I have checked it 4 times and the frame counter goes to 36 and resets when the back is removed.
 
This is how I fixed my S3, and think it is how the OP fixed his as well. In my case, the screw was loose. I used some fine-tipped needle nosed pliers as a spanner.

As noted above, the Motor Lug slots are NOT the things to rotate.

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Nikon RF's are fairly amazing, some just work without being touched -ever-. But a properly CLA'd camera is a joy to use. The viewfinder is brighter, the functions are buttery smooth, and you can rely on it to operate properly. Always a good choice when using a camera.
 
Just want to report in that I just had a frame counter issue with my black S3 re-issue. I noticed while reloading that the frame counter did not reset, and also did not advance past frame 34-35.

I removed the counter cover, and saw that the metal spring inside had become partly unwound, so it was overlapping itself. I'm not sure if this happened when I removed the counter cover or if it had happened earlier some way, but I simply unwound the spring and wound it back on again. I also unscrewed the frame counter dial and screwed it back, so it's unclear if it was the screw's fault or the spring's fault. Either way that solved it, and the counter now resets and moves as it should again.

For anyone who hasn't done this before but has the same problem, please note that the frame counter dial and the counter cover does not have any set points for alignment - when you put them back, it's best to let the counter reset, then wind forward one or two frames and then aligning the counter cover's indicator with the zero mark on the dial.
 
Just want to report in that I just had a frame counter issue with my black S3 re-issue. I noticed while reloading that the frame counter did not reset, and also did not advance past frame 34-35.

I removed the counter cover, and saw that the metal spring inside had become partly unwound, so it was overlapping itself. I'm not sure if this happened when I removed the counter cover or if it had happened earlier some way, but I simply unwound the spring and wound it back on again. I also unscrewed the frame counter dial and screwed it back, so it's unclear if it was the screw's fault or the spring's fault. Either way that solved it, and the counter now resets and moves as it should again.

For anyone who hasn't done this before but has the same problem, please note that the frame counter dial and the counter cover does not have any set points for alignment - when you put them back, it's best to let the counter reset, then wind forward one or two frames and then aligning the counter cover's indicator with the zero mark on the dial.

writing a Nikon F overhaul next month. :eek::eek::eek:

and yes, it will include this section.

the ratchet can also get stuck when wrong lubricants were used :rolleyes:
 
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