Nikor Development Tank

[the.ronin]

It has served me really well but I wanted to upgrade my setup from the plastic reels and plastic Paterson tank. So I found a great deal on a couple of Hewes 35mm stainless steel reels (paid $30 for 2 on ebay so I really hope they are not fake!) and what appears to be a hardly if at all used "Honeywell Nikor Film Developing Tank Cat. No. 3021" off of Etsy which I'm fairly certain holds 2x 35mm reels.

Any usage tips would be appreciated.

Should I be particularly careful when dumping out chemicals to make sure it all got out? It's pretty obvious if anything's left with a Paterson tank.

Does that cap tend to loosen? Should I be holding down on it pretty good or is it pretty leak proof?

I like the ability to stir with the Paterson but I don't see how that can be done with this SS setup. Just agitate as normal?

Thanks!

 

[Phil_F_NM]

If you have the stainless lid and cap, you could develop leaks. Mine did so I replaced it with the Honeywell rubber lid and cap. I've used the Nikor SS tanks and rubber lids for quite a while and as long as the rubber doesn't crack from getting pried off, it will last forever.

Agitate as normal. Once you get addicted and want to do a lot more rolls at a time, get an 8-reel plus the steel reel picker that slips through all the reels from the bottom, so you don't have to risk denting the reels from tipping them out.

I learned to develop on the Nikor tanks and reels. I can't stand the plastic Paterson and won't voluntarily go back to using them.

Phil Forrest

 

[Doug]

The Nikor tanks are popular and should be fine regarding leaks. Unless they get banged up, I suppose. For agitation, swirl it around in your hand, tip it back and forth, set it down firmly to knock bubbles off the film. Over-agitation is usually more a problem than under.

I've mostly used the Kindermann tanks, and do like the rubbery top parts. Kindermann reels along with the Hewes reels are excellent. Somehow reels get a bit bent in use, so periodically I check them to make sure the sides are parallel for good loading action. I check the distances between the sides with calipers and squeeze them back parallel by hand. If the reel has a short "stand-off" with the outermost quarter-inch or so of wire bent 90-deg out to the side, that side goes into the tank toward the bottom... it keeps the reel a bit away from the tank bottom for better circulation.

Be consistent and have fun!

 

[narsuitus]

For years, I have used stainless steel tanks for developing 35mm and 120 black&white negative roll film and color positive roll film.

Whenever I pour chemical out of the tank or invert the tank during agitation, I hold on to the lid to prevent the weight of the contents from pushing too hard against the lid and popping it open.


35mm and 120 Developing by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[Ronald M]

caps and tanks are hand fitted at factory. if not mixed up, they never leak.

pour out developer for 7 sec, up right, dump remaining.

best practice is to drop reel into a tank already filled with developer, cap, agitate 30 sec.

then however you like as long as it is random and fairly vigorous. no need to shake like a cocktail.

 

[sepiareverb]

Treat the reels well, they become from kinda frustrating to pretty useless if dropped and bent, tho the Hewes are much sturdier than the nikkor/Kindermann ones.

I too learned on metal, and can’t stand the plastic.

 

[Shac]

If you only have the stainless caps - try a wide rubber band around where it joins the main section. This stops the leaks pretty well. That's what I use and I;ve been using Nikkor reels for longer than I care to remember

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

Get a 120 size tank and use 2 x 35mm reels - you will be using more developer and you will probably benefit from the additional fluid if you are only doing one loaded reel. As was mentioned, the Hewes reels are much sturdier and easier for a beginner to load...
in ten years if you roll a Hewes reel on a flat surface it will still roll true, where as a Nikor reel may have a wobble from rough handling. A wobble with a Nikor reel may lead to more difficult loading...from what I have experienced.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

The Hewes reels are the best. Absolutely the easiest reels to load. Almost impossible to mess up. Here's a video I made showing how to do it.

https://youtu.be/HHLvxVDUZHE

About the Nikor tanks: They work well, but often leak slightly. I hold a folded up paper towel over the top of them when I agitate because occasionally a drop of chemical will fly off it into my face. The tiny cap that you remove to pour chemicals in and out often sticks in place. I keep a small screwdriver to pop it off with when that happens. I also wear nitrile (chemical resistant rubber) gloves when I process, and they make removing the caps much easier by giving more grip.

I rarely use my Nikor tanks anymore; I have switched to modern steel tanks with plastic lids. The inexpensive ones made by Kalt work just as well as expensive ones like Kindermann. There is no advantage to buying costly tanks, unlike reels. Cheap reels are horrid; stick with Hewes.

 

[Highway 61]

Steel reels and tanks only have advantages over plastic stuff. As others wrote, take care of your Hewes reels.

All my Nikor tanks leak more or less. Some turns (don't use too much) of cheap plumbing Teflon ribbon around the main lid gasket will help a lot, as well as a worn piece of tissue wrapped over the lids with an elastic band when you agitate.

Caveat : don't use anything around the tank main lid gasket which will make the main lid impossible to remove when it's time to rinse the films ! Something made of rubber may be too thick.

I stick to full metal jacket lids. I have had cracks in some plastic lids designed for steel tanks.

 

[Ronald M]

Steel reels and tanks only have advantages over plastic stuff. As others wrote, take care of your Hewes reels.

All my Nikor tanks leak more or less. Some turns (don't use too much) of cheap plumbing Teflon ribbon around the main lid gasket will help a lot, as well as a worn piece of tissue wrapped over the lids with an elastic band when you agitate.

Caveat : don't use anything around the tank main lid gasket which will make the main lid impossible to remove when it's time to rinse the films ! Something made of rubber may be too thick.

I stick to full metal jacket lids. I have had cracks in some plastic lids designed for steel tanks.

me too pop on the lights and find the lid has crack & pie shaped leak.

plastic gets old and brittle. better stuff is softer, but still gets old.

 

[the.ronin]

Thank you all for the great advice. Here are pics of the tank that's on its way to me. I do hope that cap is secure but there is some great advice here I can use if it is not.

I am a little worried about that cap. If anyone has a link to a replacement cap should I need it I would really appreciate it. Thanks again everyone.

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

I do as Chris mention - as a matter of routine I fold a paper towel and place it in between my palm and the cap when I pick up the tank for inversions.

 

[ptpdprinter]

If it leaks a bit, don't worry. It's part of the charm of stainless steel tanks. I've always got a work towel with me when I'm in the darkroom. They call it a wet darkroom for a reason.

 

[rybolt]

If it leaks a bit, don't worry. It's part of the charm of stainless steel tanks. I've always got a work towel with me when I'm in the darkroom. They call it a wet darkroom for a reason.

I completely agree. They all leak a little after awhile. The big deal is being able to get the big lid off when you want to get it off. Sometimes they do get stuck. I keep an oil filter wrench handy.
I just picked up a 64 ounce Nikor tank with 4-120 Nikor reels. The top doesn't have a pour lid since the thing is so big. You fill the tank with chemistry and then drop the reels-using a T bar- into the soup.

 

[Fraser]

Thank you all for the great advice. Here are pics of the tank that's on its way to me. I do hope that cap is secure but there is some great advice here I can use if it is not.

I am a little worried about that cap. If anyone has a link to a replacement cap should I need it I would really appreciate it. Thanks again everyone.

just keep a finger over the cap when you invert, it just pushes on. Or even better get some nice plastic ones from paterson😀

 

[Steve M.]

The plastic Paterson tanks leak a little too. It's no big deal, and I never saw the need to go to stainless.

 

[the.ronin]

I got the tank and it is in great condition. I test filled it with water and did some agitations and saw no leakage.

How much are you typically filling this tank?

I know Q15 indicates 15 fluid ounces or 443 ml. I think when I test filled it 500 ml was definitely too much and 400 ml ended up just ender the lip. But I figure the reels (mine haven't arrived yet) would take up some volume. I plan to develop 2 reels of 35 mm at a time.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I got the tank and it is in great condition. I test filled it with water and did some agitations and saw no leakage.

How much are you typically filling this tank?

I know Q15 indicates 15 fluid ounces or 443 ml. I think when I test filled it 500 ml was definitely too much and 400 ml ended up just ender the lip. But I figure the reels (mine haven't arrived yet) would take up some volume. I plan to develop 2 reels of 35 mm at a time.

You may find that two Hewes reels will not fit in that tank. The tank you have was designed to develop one 120 film reel, which is not as tall as two 35mm reels.

Nikor 35mm reels would BARELY fit, but then the developer would barely reach the top of the reels. Hews reels use thicker steel wire.

Modern steel tanks are a little taller than the old Nikor ones were and allow modern 35mm reels plus a little extra space so the developer can comfortably cover the reels.

 

[the.ronin]

Oh that blows I was really hoping to be able to develop 2x Hewes 35mm reels with this. It's specced to hold 2 reels but I guess I'll know for sure later when my reels arrive.