Not a good start: Minolta Himatic 7s

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Film explorer

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Hi,

I thought I would follow up with some observations of my recent purchase - the Minolta Himatic 7s.

I ended up getting one that had a meter that was working which was a bonus. The camera feels very solid in the hand, with a nice even weight distribution. I worked out how to use the lightmeter (I have experience with a friends borrowed M6)

However, reality soon hit when I found it difficult to handle the interface. The aperture and shutter speed are so jammed next to each other making it difficult to rapidly bracket shots. I may have gammy fingers or it could be the design and my inexperience. Trying to turn one you inadvertently turn the other.

Also, the self-timer is a pain in the ass as I kept inadvertently knocing it and missed shots because I kept engaging it when I thought I was at 1/250 and F8. Also rather annoying.

So, I will persist with this camera as a pre-set zone focus point and shoot, until I save enough money to get a CLE or M6. I aim to do street photography so it will be good in that aspect - pre set and then shoot. I think this camera will toughen me up and in comparison my friends M felt like a breeze.

Also, I have a question if someone has some knowhow. I also dropped this camera on the first day onto concrete. I tested the rangefinder and the distances are matching to the patch. Does anyone know if this rangefinder could have been knocked out incorrectly, or did the simple test I did show it will be fine?

Thankyou:)
 
Sorry for bumping this (I know that its bad web manners), but I was wondering if anyone knows about the rangefinder being knocked out of its accuracy after a drop?

I dropped the camera, but all the distances are correct when I measure the focus distance, so should that be okay, or could there still be potentially be a problem?

Thankyou in advance^^
 
Rangefinder... You want three things aligned: Focus at the film plane, distance scale, and the patch lining up in the viewfinder.

You dropped the camera. The most likely thing to get out of whack is the internals of the viewfinder; unlikely the drop changed the focus at the film plane or the distance scale. So, if the viewfinder patch agrees with the distance scale, you're probably OK.

But, if the drop bent the frame and has the lens out of alignment, that would be a different story.

Suggest you include a focus test in the next roll you shoot.
 
Col: Thanks for that advice. I didn't even know about the focus at the film plane^!^

I'm new to all of this so advice on this forum is proving to be a great educational sounding board.

If there is one thing about the Himatic, I must say it is built like a sherman tank :p
 
I'm also a bit disappointed with hi-matic 7s,why? As a rangefinder, it's even larger than my SLR minolta x700! Perhaps also heavier, how can I use it for street photography?
 
hi-matic7s said:
I'm also a bit disappointed with hi-matic 7s,why? As a rangefinder, it's even larger than my SLR minolta x700! Perhaps also heavier, how can I use it for street photography?
Click to expand...

ummm by taking it out and shooting it? does the slight extra weight make it impossible to shoot with? if so, stick with your x700.
 
steveniphoto said:
ummm by taking it out and shooting it? does the slight extra weight make it impossible to shoot with? if so, stick with your x700.
Click to expand...

Actually it is an incredibly difficult camera to use on the fly for street photography, especially when you want to bracket.

1st problem) The aperture and shutter speed rings are right next to each other, so it is difficult to turn just one.

2nd problem) Keep engaging the self timer accidentally, so more missed shots.

3rd problem) The design of the focus on the lens is rather loose, hence it is easy to bump the this when zone focusing.

4th problem) The camera is very heavy, built like a sherman tank, gotta sore neck.

I figure after using and conquering this camera, the M is a breeze in comparison.
 
The aperture and shutter speed dials are next to each other to enable you to keep the same EV value by turning both together. I never had problem with the self timer - is yours loose? Nice lens, got great results with it.
 
For street photography, shoot in A (actually a program mode, pretty advanced for a camera made in 1966). Correct, bracketing is not practical with this camera, especially for street ophotography, but A mode provides exposure lock. Lightly press the shutter button, lock the exposure, and recompose. Not quite bracketing, but with experience, this provides good exposure cmpensation. The meter, with the dual-sensor CLC feature, is very good. The lens is excellent.
 
I've given up on TwinMates. Fine little meters though they are, the incident-metering domes on mine filled with pocket lint after six months or so and they started to read a stop or two slow; and in each case a small knock was all it took to bend the meter needle and jam them.

Now I have an old L-398 Studio Deluxe for daily carry, and a Gossen Mastersix for when the light starts to go.
 
Film explorer said:
Hi,

I thought I would follow up with some observations of my recent purchase - the Minolta Himatic 7s.
Thankyou:)
Click to expand...

I've owned a couple of 7S models. You may already know this, but the model more often sought was the 7 SII. It was made at the same time Minolta made lenses for the Leica CL. The SII is reputed to have used the same lens glass.

The SII is a smaller camera, and the layout of the things you find disconcerting with the 7S are different all around, as I recall.

Perhaps forging ahead with the 7S is counterproductive. You may want to seek out an SII if you are headed to a CL, CLE or other Leica/Minolta.

There is a strong writeup on the 7SII on Camera Quest... the head bartenders site.

Link: http://www.cameraquest.com/min7s2.htm

I pretty much moved to the Canon QL17 GIII.
 
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