Off camera flash for M4

rphenning

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I have been trying to find an answer for this for a few weeks now and multiple searches on google and this forum have yielded nothing. I want to know what kind of attachment I would need to have a flash on my M4. I read somewhere that I would need a special PC port retro-fitted to my camera? Thanks for any and all help, even if it is just a link to a thread I over looked on here.
 
All you need is a small socket adapter. B&H (among others) sell them for a few dollars. If your flash has only a hot foot, another adapter will be needed. If you really mean "off camera", you will need a long sync cable.
 
What Mukul said. The M4 flash connection is basically the same with that for an M3 or M2. You need a flash sync to PC converter/adapter plug. Google the words or do a search with these words and you 'll find various merchants selling them new for a few dollars. You can find it even cheaper if you search for a used one in the auction site. The addition of the plug means that you will also need a short lead to connect the PC plug with the socket in your flashgun. Many old flashes come with one anyway, if yours doesn't you 'll have to spend some extra few dollars to get one.

Off-camera is the kind of setup where you use your flash in any place (e.g. a bracket attached to the camera or a stand with un umbrella) but the shoe on the camera. If that's what you have in mind, the basic idea with connections remain the same but you need either longer cables to connect the unit to the camera or remote triggers in case you are using the flash as a slave.
 
M4 has an ordinary PC terminal, making the use of electronic flash easier. The cold shoe is no problem if you're working off-camera. I can fire my flashes and studio lights with stock PC cables - no adapter.
 
Hm, why did the fellas up there tell me I needed an adapter you think? Thank you for the info.

Hm, sorry, my bad Rphenning, I 've spent far too much time in the company of M2/3s and thought they share the same PC socket with the M4. If you already bought the adapter plug, PM me and I 'll buy it from you, I can use some extra for the M2s.
 
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I use a small Metz 20BC-6 manual/auto flash with spiral cord. When you shoot flash off your stretched arm you don't really need any swivels, and such units are fairly compact. This one runs off 3 AAs for maybe halfdozen rolls.

Now I consider getting a radio flash sync, not messing with cords is great.

main.php
 
The Low-Down On M Leica Flash Sockets & Cords

The Low-Down On M Leica Flash Sockets & Cords

First off, straight cord last and last. Coil cords don't. At some point the fine wires inside will break enough that no electricity gets through. Either way, ALWAYS carry a spare cord. Test it on occasion and before an important shoot.

The Leica M1, M2, M3 and original (1950's vintage) MP had a larger diameter socket than later models and took a special "Leica M" cord. PC adapters were readily available for a dollar or two. Many cameras had the socket changed to the later M4 style. Sometimes both the X and M sockets were changed, but since flash bulbs were rapidly becoming a thing of the past sometimes only the X socket was changed.

The so-called M4 (and newer M models as well) socket and flash cords weren't exactly PC. The cord tip had a shallow groove around it and the socket had a bit of springy wire inside so when you inserted the tip into the socket it had to be pulled out with a bit (not much) effort. It was unlikely to fall out by itself. No adapter was needed to use a standard PC cord.

The various Leicaflex and Leica R models take PC cords with no adapter required.

Little plastic covers snapped into the sockets when not being used to keep the contacts clean. The M1, M2, and M3 came with white covers, newer models used black. Many photographers drilled (or melted with a hot needle) a tiny hole in the center of the caps so they could be connected with a bit of braided nylon fishing line with a knot on each end.

The Leicaflex caps came molded in pairs with a strand of thin plastic connecting the two caps but the spacing was wrong for the M rangefinder cameras. Since an M4 cap and a pair of Leicaflex caps were the same price many of us bought the Leicaflex pair of caps and trimmed off the connecting plastic. Back then the dollar saved would buy a cup of coffee, a donut, and a pack of smokes! Everybody smoked.

The only things that belong in the accessory shoe are viewfinders for wide angle lenses or a carefully torn and folded piece of the end flap of the film box so you know what film is in the camera. Get used to holding and operating the camera with your right hand and holding the flash in your left. You can nudge the focus with your extended middle or ring finger, wind with your thumb (try multi-stroking the wind lever) and firing with your index finger. The camera is much easier to hold with no flash on it.
 
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haha jeeze I should have checked the forum more, I hadn't looked at this until today when I recieved the flash I bought on ebay. No big deal telenous, thank you though for trying to fill me in. I ended up getting a Vivitar 283 with a 20" PC cord, results from some tests on my mom are hanging to dry.
 
Thanks Mr. Kaplan, I copy pasted your post into a word file so I can read up on it and refresh every now and then. Some good technique pointers in there and I can use all the help I can get. Thanks again everyone.
 
One good reason is that you can get lighting effects with one or more flashes that you might not otherwise find "available". Sometimes it's just too dang dark maybe? You need the depth of field or ability to stop action? Learning to work with flash units often means the difference between getting the picture and not getting the picture. Editors don't like excuses such as "Oh PLEEEZE Mr. Editor, don't fire me. The meter said that the exposure was f/1.2 @ 6 seconds, I didn't want to take my Noctilux out in the rain, my tripod was too big to carry, the kids wouldn't sit still anyway, and I was using a LEICA so I wouldn't DARE to use a flash!" Leicas were born to be working tools.

You'd be surprised at how many published "available light" pictures you've admired were made with the help of the "available" light stands and slave units that the photographer and his assistant shlepped to the location so they'd be "available" as sources of light. Using a Leica has nothing to do with the reality of getting the shot.
 
easyrider, I definitely don't disagree with your position about the role of the camera one bit. In fact I strongly dislike 99% of strobist stuff and one of the main reasons I got the Leica was because I felt it was the best camera for the low key, available light, sort of photographs I favor.

That being said I am pretty taken with the work that Bruce Gilden does, have thought a few times in the 3 or 4 months I have had this camera that I wouldn't mind a flash in a certain situation, and have seen a few works here and there with flash that really struck me.

I also have a medium format on the way and wouldn't mind being able to shoot a few set up portraits of my friends instead of candids.

Finally, it was almost too inexpensive not to just have one for the one or two times I will use it here and there. I am set up shooting with a flash for under 30 bucks. Can't beat that in my opinion.
 
First off everyone, I'm quite content with being called Al. No need for the Mr. Kaplan.

I like to go on a shoot, expose several rolls, and have people say "I never saw you take any pictures!" I also enjoy showing a bunch of photos that people think are available light when they're not.

There are also situations where you might WANT that 1950's flash-on-camera look with the black shadow on the background to one side of the subject accentuating the subject. Tell the ladies to wear red lipstick and red nail polish, and if you're shooting B&W try using a blue filter. The red will come out nearly black.

There's more to "Leica photography" than just stealth and available light.
 
Sorry, Hans, no I don't have a picture handy. Some lenses are easier to do it with than others. I'm just using the fingertip to nudge it a bit for fine focus, not going infinity to one meter! Sometimes it's easier just to move your body a bit to get perfect focus. I find that when taking a series of shots as I move around the location I seem to always stop at the same distance from my subject anyway.

If you're using a 35mm lens at f/4 or 5.6 you have quite a bit of depth of field to work with so ultra precise focus isn't needed.

It's easier to do with some lenses than others.
 
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