Off Camera Wireless Flash Trigger Advice

For ambient lighting when you have to get the shot, would you want a camera with a comparatively less reliable shutter? No.

For situations where you can't get the shot without your strobe firing, would you want a transmitter that's comparatively less reliable? No.

I guess I see the choice as a "weakest link" argument. I think the strobe trigger should be as reliable as the camera shutter, or at least as nearly so as possible. I'd rather save money on a less expensive strobe than short the reliability of my trigger.
 
charjohncarter said:
I use my Cybersync triggers with the DSLR. But I get a little feeling of security using it with folders and my BessaR. Most of my flashes are in the 10-30 trigger volt range, so even mechanical cameras can use some protection.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4vPoyL8njU&feature=related

This is a start.
Click to expand...

Most leaf shutters have fairly robust sync contacts. What you don't want is "pitting", caused by higher voltages. So the radio sync is good protection for all the gear. When you take your cameras in for servicing, ask the Tech. to look for any pitting on the sync contacts, and ask that the contacts be burnished if any pitting is present. It's common to find pitted sync contacts on older view camera lens shutters. Many were used with big studio lights, like Ascor Sunlight or Magnaflash units. Lots of sync voltage in some of the old stuff.
 
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I use the new Pocket Wizard TT5s with Canon speedlights and the AC3 zone controller. I can remotely change the manual settings on all my lights right from on top of the Leica. It's fantastic. The TT5 is a bit large on top of the M8 though. I recommend the TT1 as the main controller with an M8.
 
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