Old Rf's with Roll film backs

[f16sunshine]

Hi All
I have started using an old Plaubel Makina IIs . I have one roll film back that is light tight and Fully functional. My question is. Has anyone come up with an easy fix for the difference in 120 backing paper old vs new (Thicker vs thinner)? The frame spacing is overlapping starting slightly bad and then getting worse. The only thing I can come up with is that the paper used to be much thicker vs now. Maybe the film was thicker as well. Any advise? Has anyone tried making a thinner/smaller take up side spool or some other trick? Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.

Oops wrong forum. Mod could please move thnx.

 

[oftheherd]

Are you sure the film transport mechanism isn't out of adjustment? Of course I don't know how far back thinner vs thicker might go back, if that is in fact a consideration. On my Super Press 23, there is a separate roller that measures the amount of film that has passed before stopping the film's progress.

Good luck on solving your problem. 6x7 negatives are a pleasure.

 

[Steve M.]

I had a Super Ikonta that had a similar frame spacing issue, and you probably just need a measure of tape wrapped around your take up spool. It fixed the problem on my camera. I just taped the film leader to the taped spool and that was that.

 

[sevo]

The Plaubel Rada backs with counter are terrible when it comes to spacing, and they weren't that much better thirty years ago with Eastern European films that still had old style cardboard strength backing - maybe the old wooden cores were thicker than plastic, or Rada preferred their simple mechanism to err towards a risk of overlaps rather than one of the last frame being half lost.

They count on the take-up spool, so their spacing benefits from winding up more film at the start - and as they leave almost two frames of blank at the end with modern film, there is enough film for it.

I load as per manual (i.e. wind with open slider until the glue strip appears in the film window, close slider, reset to 0 and wind on to 1), wind on one more frame and reset the counter to 1 - this usually adds just enough thickness that the frames barely touch by the end. As the Makina II framing is pretty vague, the remaining risk of a slight overlap at the edges does not bother me there. On the Makiflex and Peco, where framing is dead accurate and overlap would be a nuisance, I prefer the red window Radas (which strangely enough are cheaper on the used market than the flawed counter ones).

 

[f16sunshine]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll try the tape as well as loading on an extra frame and see what happens.