John Bragg
Well-known
This little camera never ceases to amaze me. Here is a recent shot of a film prop Spitfire. Post some shots to share here as I would love to see what others achieve with this mini marvel. Film was Tri-X in HC-110H @ Ei200.
Gregoyle
Well-known
I like the thread idea!
I think this was Arista Premium at EI 1600 in Rodinal stand. Might have been Xtol though. The lens is amazing for such a small and easy camera!
If you are wondering how to shoot ISO 400 film at 1600 in this camera, I can show you
gerbilthemistake
Well-known
I like the thread idea!
I think this was Arista Premium at EI 1600 in Rodinal stand. Might have been Xtol though. The lens is amazing for such a small and easy camera!
If you are wondering how to shoot ISO 400 film at 1600 in this camera, I can show you
I am very much interested in how to override the iso
John Bragg
Well-known
This is how I re-code Tri-X to Ei200. I call it scrape and tape.
Gregoyle
Well-known
The way the mjuII reads the ISO is by the DX code on the film roll. The way DX coding for ISO works is that there are 4 little metal prongs in the camera that touch the sides of the film roll. Those prongs send a tiny electric current through the roll, which is metal, and report whether or not it is conductive. The DX coding is just a pattern of nonconductive paint and lack of paint. Here are the patterns (from mir.com):
All you have to do is take a razor blade and scratch away the paint in the patterns shown. As you can see, it's easy to change 400 speed film to 800, 1600, and 3200 just by scratching paint away. It doesn't have to be perfect, just conductive. After the first time it literally takes 1 minute to change the DX coding on a roll.
If you want to add nonconductive areas, just use scotch tape. By the way, the mjuII doesn't pay attention to the shots per roll code, if you look inside it only has 4 prongs.
Edit: I see John just showed use his method
All you have to do is take a razor blade and scratch away the paint in the patterns shown. As you can see, it's easy to change 400 speed film to 800, 1600, and 3200 just by scratching paint away. It doesn't have to be perfect, just conductive. After the first time it literally takes 1 minute to change the DX coding on a roll.
If you want to add nonconductive areas, just use scotch tape. By the way, the mjuII doesn't pay attention to the shots per roll code, if you look inside it only has 4 prongs.
Edit: I see John just showed use his method
jhthomasii
Established
IlyaB
Established
rjb
Newbie
Kept up with the kids
Kept up with the kids
What a wonderful camera! Exposure and focus were very reliable. Here are a couple I took with Fuji Superia 400.
Kept up with the kids
What a wonderful camera! Exposure and focus were very reliable. Here are a couple I took with Fuji Superia 400.
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Landberg
Well-known
I really love this little thing! I thought that it would be my color film camera but now it's loaded with tmax400. Back to order!
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
They are great cameras and punch well above their weight.
About DX contacts, you win a prize if you find a camera that takes DX cassettes and reads all the coding. There's just one I've found so far. Although just 4 contacts makes a lot of sense...
Regards, David
They are great cameras and punch well above their weight.
About DX contacts, you win a prize if you find a camera that takes DX cassettes and reads all the coding. There's just one I've found so far. Although just 4 contacts makes a lot of sense...
Regards, David
Sparrow
Veteran
Sparrow
Veteran
Sparrow
Veteran
Sparrow
Veteran
Great camera, and one can get them wet, drop them and use then after drinking ... if only they defaulted to flash-off and didn't have that bloody shutter ...... lag
John Bragg
Well-known
Another from the same roll. Tri-X in HC-110H @ Ei200.
Monz
Monz
You need a Ricoh GR1/ GR1s/ GV1v, but they have a 28mm/f2.8 lens.
..and you can't get them wet!
Sparrow
Veteran
... here too! ... I thought I'd get away with it on here, anyway 28 is too wide for me, and the mjuII already has too many buttons imo
gerbilthemistake
Well-known
Thanks to both, I'll have to try this next time.
The way the mjuII reads the ISO is by the DX code on the film roll. The way DX coding for ISO works is that there are 4 little metal prongs in the camera that touch the sides of the film roll. Those prongs send a tiny electric current through the roll, which is metal, and report whether or not it is conductive. The DX coding is just a pattern of nonconductive paint and lack of paint. Here are the patterns (from mir.com):
All you have to do is take a razor blade and scratch away the paint in the patterns shown. As you can see, it's easy to change 400 speed film to 800, 1600, and 3200 just by scratching paint away. It doesn't have to be perfect, just conductive. After the first time it literally takes 1 minute to change the DX coding on a roll.
If you want to add nonconductive areas, just use scotch tape. By the way, the mjuII doesn't pay attention to the shots per roll code, if you look inside it only has 4 prongs.
Edit: I see John just showed use his method
farlymac
PF McFarland
John Bragg
Well-known
Kodak Tri-X @ Ei200 developed in HC-110H