Olympus Q&A thread

[jajong]

Or the 1-1 screen, which darkens from f4.5, so not the best for telelenses (according to the focusing screen box, that says 1-2 is good but not best for 28mm and shorter). I have the 1-1 in my om-1: fine.

Cheers.
Jan

 

[John Hermanson]

The original OM-1 screen was the 1-3 (split image), then the 1-1 (microprism dot). Then the 1-13 combined the 2. All screens (except 1-9) are useable in the OM-4 though the 2-4 and 2-13 will be brighter due to the loss of light of the semi-silvered mirror. John

 

[DCB]

How do you know what munger screen you have?

My OM1MD has the 1-1 I think.
My OM1N looks like it has a 1-3?

Peace

 

[Range-rover]

Range Rover - I've been meaning to clean the glass in my 50 mm f1.8. Managed to take the bottom mounting ring off but couldn't get any further. Tried unscrewing the bottom lens element (group?) but it wouldn't budge. Could you elaborate on how you went about cleaning yours?

Hi,
Sorry about the late response, I used a vise grip locking tool on the
rear element group but you have to use a thick rubber on both sides so
you don't damage anything, also you can unthread the front name plate
which is easier and take out the three screws that should open the lens
to get at the dust. I just did a Nikkor 35mm f2.8 and there was film behind
the front element, the front was easy to get out but the 3 element
assembly was a bear to take apart but I got it done.

** Be Careful**

range

 

[aadi]

Which of the OM would be best to shoot in cold condition?

 

[JonWNC]

I recently got a black OM-1 that is in really nice condition.
However, the shutter curtain, when in the "uncocked" position seems to be a little "saggy" or "loose". Waves can be seen in it and it does not sit flat against the edges. These waves do not go away when the shutter is cocked, as in the material does not tighten up when the curtain is moved to the ready-to-fire position.
When the shutter is cocked and ready to fire, the shutter curtain is tight, no waves.
In both positions there are no light leaks that I can see (held it up to the sun, used bright flashlights, etc), so I do not know if this is an something I need to be concerned about.
It does bother me somewhat, as none of my other OM's have this "issue".
Any thoughts regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

First pic shows "waves" when in the uncocked position.
Second pic shows shutter ready to fire.
Third pic shows the camera.

 

[dtcls100]

Which of the OM would be best to shoot in cold condition?

The mechanical bodies -- the OM-1 and OM-3 would be best, as they don't need any batteries to take photos. The typical limiting factor for using the electronic OM bodies (OM-2 and OM-4 and double digit OM series) use in cold weather is the batteries and the button cells of the OM series can freeze quickly, thus limiting the usefulness of those electronic cameras in very cold weather.

I do recall that Rick Oleson posted how to build a remote battery pack using AA batteries (to be kept in a warm pocket) that connected by a cord to the bottom of the OM bodies for cold weather use. But the instructions required some drilling into a spare battery cap, which is more than I have the equipment to do. Unfortunately, he didn't sell any of these, or I would have surely bought one.

 

[Chris101]

I recently got a black OM-1 that is in really nice condition.
However, the shutter curtain, when in the "uncocked" position seems to be a little "saggy" or "loose". Waves can be seen in it and it does not sit flat against the edges. These waves do not go away when the shutter is cocked, as in the material does not tighten up when the curtain is moved to the ready-to-fire position.
When the shutter is cocked and ready to fire, the shutter curtain is tight, no waves.
In both positions there are no light leaks that I can see (held it up to the sun, used bright flashlights, etc), so I do not know if this is an something I need to be concerned about.
It does bother me somewhat, as none of my other OM's have this "issue".
Any thoughts regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

First pic shows "waves" when in the uncocked position.
Second pic shows shutter ready to fire.
Third pic shows the camera.

If you have ever perused KEH, you may have noticed the annotation "wrinkled shutter". This is what you have. It'll keep working until it fails. If you wish to pre-empt failure, send it off to get fixed - John Hermanson for example. Otherwise, live with it until it does, then buy another camera.

 

[JonWNC]

Thanks for the insight Chris.
I looked at KEH this morning, but did not see any Oly camera listed with this condition noted. I don't have a bunch into the camera, I just wish this would have been noted/pictured by the seller as just about every other issue was pointed out.
Anyway, I will live with the shutter as it is for now. I was more curious as to how terminal it may or may not be. I've talked to John about other issues, perhaps I'll ask about this too (although I don't want to take up any more of his valuable time).

 

[John Hermanson]

There's battery issues for the OM-4?

Range

There were 2-3 intermediate circuits released for the OM-4 before the final 4T version circuit (with the lowest drain). The ONLY plain 4 bodies with lower drain circuits are the ones that Olympus repaired for end users. Olympus Japan NEVER made or sold any plain OM-4s with low drain circuits. Here's how to test for a low drain circuit: turn the battery test on. If the LED and beep turn off automatically in about 30 seconds, that camera has a low drain board. John

 

[John Hermanson]

If you have ever perused KEH, you may have noticed the annotation "wrinkled shutter". This is what you have. It'll keep working until it fails. If you wish to pre-empt failure, send it off to get fixed - John Hermanson for example. Otherwise, live with it until it does, then buy another camera.

Wrinkled curtain means either one of the curtain strings is off the pulley or part of the curtain stop plate has broken off. John

 

[Chris101]

Wrinkled curtain means either one of the curtain strings is off the pulley or part of the curtain stop plate has broken off. John

When you fixed my shutter, it was a curtain string issue. (It's been working perfectly since then btw. 😀 )

JonWNC: there you go!

 

[JonWNC]

Thanks again for the input and thanks for the answer John. I think this one will be coming your way soon for the full works!

 

[Coopersounds]

so the OM10 can use a manual adapter for shutter speeds, how about the OM2?

 

[gustavoAvila]

so the OM10 can use a manual adapter for shutter speeds, how about the OM2?

The OM-2/4 cameras can be switched to manual mode using the power/mode switch. As such, a "manual" adapter is not necessary for these bodies.

 

[DCB]

The OM2 has it's own manual mode.

 

[Coopersounds]

ah, thanks guys i didn't realise that.

 

[DCB]

I am looking for an Olympus metal lens hood for the 50mm 1.8 lens. Any ideas on where I can find one?

Peace

 

[Range-rover]

Ebay or a good camera store that has a great used camera department like B&H,
Adorama or KEH.

Range

 

[DCB]

I got one on ebay...it's like new. I stole it (price wise).

Will post pics soon.

Peace