Olympus XA3 exposure program

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I have had superb results with this little beast when using it with 400-800 EI, very sharp and, except when the selector lever was not at the right setting, no noticeable softness or shake.

I recently tried it with 100 (Foma to be precise - a test using perceptol) and while I continued to make the occasional mistake with the focus selector, many shots are relatively blurry.

Much of this may be my holding technique - I'm used to the mass of a larger camera, but also I wondered at what the exposure setting program is. It was a sunny day, but when I shot backlit scenes with the 1.5 extra stop adjustment all came out relatively blurry. Does anyone know the exposure program at all?

It's an insanely light and useful camera when out walking, and I'm sure I will improve my own failings with regular use but knowing a little more about the camera might help a lot!

(asking lots of questions at present, many thanks to all who help)

 

[John Bragg]

I have had superb results with this little beast when using it with 400-800 EI, very sharp and, except when the selector lever was not at the right setting, no noticeable softness or shake.

I recently tried it with 100 (Foma to be precise - a test using perceptol) and while I continued to make the occasional mistake with the focus selector, many shots are relatively blurry.

Much of this may be my holding technique - I'm used to the mass of a larger camera, but also I wondered at what the exposure setting program is. It was a sunny day, but when I shot backlit scenes with the 1.5 extra stop adjustment all came out relatively blurry. Does anyone know the exposure program at all?

It's an insanely light and useful camera when out walking, and I'm sure I will improve my own failings with regular use but knowing a little more about the camera might help a lot!

(asking lots of questions at present, many thanks to all who help)

Hi Charles. Can't find a copy of the program but here is a manual for download, in case you haven't got one. https://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_xa2/olympus_xa2.htm

I have one as well which I have resealed but not completed a film in it as yet. Cost me a £1 on ebay. Must finish that roll and see what I have got.

 

[David Hughes]

If either of you, or anyone else in GB, has problems with them, then Luton Camera repairs are the people to go to. I have even sent them cameras with deep scratches on the cover and they have come back without them and other small parts have been replaced as recently as a couple of weeks ago when I sent them one of my rescued XA3's.


One of my favourite cameras and very little plastic in them.


Regards, David

 

[tbhv55]

Much of this may be my holding technique - I'm used to the mass of a larger camera, but also I wondered at what the exposure setting program is. It was a sunny day, but when I shot backlit scenes with the 1.5 extra stop adjustment all came out relatively blurry. Does anyone know the exposure program at all?

The XA3’s shutter speed range is 1/750 to 2 seconds, so there’s plenty of range for camera shake to occur... and if you’re adding 1½ stops of exposure then the camera could easily be moving into camera-shake ‘territory’ if the light level is low.

I’ll also mention (in case you were unaware of this) something that might be relevant. I had blurring problems with my XA2, until I learned that the focus-range setting is intended for use only in poor light, since that is when the aperture opens enough that D-o-F might have a greater effect upon the focus distance. In good light the focus-range setting should be left at the default setting.

Hope this helps.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Well I've learned something very useful indeed - thank you tbhv55. For my next trick I'm going to hold it more steadily.

Also thank you John and David - a good repairman is worth their weight etc. I wonder if they can revive my OM2n.

 

[tbhv55]

Well I've learned something very useful indeed - thank you tbhv55. For my next trick I'm going to hold it more steadily.

Well, I hope it solves the problem, Charles.

I don't recall where I found the information about the focus-range setting, but having read it, I started using the camera with the default focus-range setting every time (the exception being in poor light, of course) and I've had no problem with it since. [The occasional 'idiot operator' error aside, naturally! 😉 🙂]

 

[John Bragg]

While I think about it, another quick hack with this model is to tape over the Dx code on a cassette and use the manual speed setting of your choice. Useful when pulling, pushing or setting personal ei. Also dead handy when shooting Ilford XP2 chromogenic film.

 

[Pál_K]

...
I’ll also mention (in case you were unaware of this) something that might be relevant. I had blurring problems with my XA2, until I learned that the focus-range setting is intended for use only in poor light, since that is when the aperture opens enough that D-o-F might have a greater effect upon the focus distance. In good light the focus-range setting should be left at the default setting.
...

That is new information to me; I don't remember if that's in the manual or not. Is there a source?

I have discovered that with ISO 400 or faster film, my photos are much sharper than with 100 or 200 - which I attribute to automatic use of a faster shutter speed and smaller aperture. However, I suspect that in any light, the infinity setting would be best for distant objects (e.g. 50m and beyond).

 

[ChrisPlatt]

I experienced similar failures with my XA series and other lightweight plastic pocket cameras.
My success rate is much better when I limit myself to the use of faster films, e.g. ISO 400.

Chris

 

[Huss]

I’ll also mention (in case you were unaware of this) something that might be relevant. I had blurring problems with my XA2, until I learned that the focus-range setting is intended for use only in poor light, since that is when the aperture opens enough that D-o-F might have a greater effect upon the focus distance. In good light the focus-range setting should be left at the default setting.

Hope this helps.

I'm reading the owner's manual and it does not say that.

https://www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_pdf/olympus_xa3.pdf

It just states that in bright sunlight the middle focus setting (full body icon) can be used from full body icon to infinity i.e 4ft to infinity.
It shows that for closer pics you should use the heads and shoulders icon, and for best quality scenic pics you should use the infinity icon.

Also, the manual shows that there is a low shutter speed warning light that illuminates when 1/30 sec or slower is being used.

 

[David Hughes]

...Also thank you John and David - a good repairman is worth their weight etc. I wonder if they can revive my OM2n.

They've done several Olympus cameras for me but not an OM of any sort - yet. They are as good as (say) Newton Ellis and Co and several others who have now retired. I won't mention the retired ones as they deserve a quiet retirement...

Regards, David

PS What we/I need now is someone who can supply new ERC straps; my only source closed a while ago and cobblers no longer exist.

 

[tbhv55]

I'm reading the owner's manual and it does not say that.

No, Huss… I know. You’re quite right – it doesn’t say this in the manual! As I said above, I can’t remember where I read about this (it was a few years ago), but IIRC, the article said that it was part of the design philosophy.

Whatever, it does make sense that in brighter light, the narrow aperture would provide so much D-o-F that the zone focus control wouldn’t need to be adjusted, whereas in low light, the wider apertures might necessitate the use of the zone focus settings.

I implemented this modus operandi after reading about it, and the blurry photos stopped happening (well, mostly! 😉). In summary... I don’t know whether this really was part of the design philosophy, but for me, the improved results were the proof of the pudding.

 

[tbhv55]

That is new information to me; I don't remember if that's in the manual or not. Is there a source?

See my previous post, @Pál_K. 🙂

 

[David Hughes]

IIRC, the XA3 was just(?) the XA2 with DX reading and the +1½ switch. So perhaps searching for both versions might produce a result.


I've a heap of XA series brochures somewhere; I'll have a look for them if he heat doesn't get to me...


Regards, David

 

[wwfloyd]

IIRC, the XA3 was just(?) the XA2 with DX reading and the +1½ switch. So perhaps searching for both versions might produce a result.

...and ISO 1600 setting. Good point on expanding the search for program info.

 

[Pál_K]

IIRC, the XA was just(?) the XA2 with DX reading and the +1½ switch. So perhaps searching for both versions might produce a result.
...

Did you mean XA3?

XA, a rangefinder, has the most features of all.

The very best info on all models and other related info is here (click on red buttons):

http://www.diaxa.com/xastart.htm

 

[David Hughes]

Did you mean XA3?

XA, a rangefinder, has the most features of all.

The very best info on all models and other related info is here (click on red buttons):

http://www.diaxa.com/xastart.htm

Yes, I probably forgot the number lock, as usual. Now corrected; thanks.


Regards, David

 

[David Hughes]

Back to the original question...

Back to the original question...

Been thinking about it and wondering if the newness of the camera causes the shakes. The shutter button isn't quite where and how you'd expect it if you are an experienced film photographer.

More to the point I use, slide film (extra slow) or else FP4+ or C200 and have no complaints.

Anyway, just my 2d worth.


Regards, David

 

[Olyfix]