OM, Canon FD, Nikon F. Which for Manual focusing?

[shadowfox]

1. Which OM screen (I have OM2's but I plan on getting OM1's) would you recommend for manual focusing portraits? Most likely my glass was too slow but I had difficulty focusing my 28mm f3.5 (I'll get a 28mm f2.0, next).

2. This is probably a bit messy but would a Nikon F2/F3 be easier to focus? What about Canon F1's? I read that Nikons have less brightness but more contrast.

Okay, let's answer your questions then:

1. You are using a 28mm, which is a wide angle lens. So it's naturally harder to focus because you see a whole lot of details in the viewfinder. Changing focusing screen to an even brighter one like 2-13 (OM-3 and OM-4 only) may or may not help. If you want to seriously use OMs for portrait, obtain the Zuiko 85/2, then the focusing screen will help.

2. No experience with F2 or Canon F1. I have no problem focusing with F3 though.

 

[TXForester]

Since you have an OM, maybe looking into another screen is the first step. I assuming you like the OM cameras for other reasons (like lens quality, size etc.).

 

[jwicaksana]

I owned an OM-2n, never like the smallish size and the placement of the speed ring. Eventually it gave up, my tech said the IC was broken. So I sold it. Also owned AE-1 for a while, never like the feel although the lens is considerably cheaper than the Nikkors. I've seen and owned a fair share of foggy/hazy Zuikos and Canon FDs especially their 50 1.4, but no Nikkors. I don't know if it's the tropics but that's my experience.
I love my F3 and F4, I use AF, AI(S) and pre AI lenses interchangeably, no problem at all with the flip up meter tab. In short: Nikon F. 🙂

 

[msbarnes]

Thanks for the advice, I'm just going Nikon.

Well the focal length is a very person choice. I don't care so much about telephotos. My preference is between 21-50. They say that you shouldn't shoot portraits with wide angles, but look at Jeanloup Sieff, it worked for him pretty well I'd say.

Anyways...it's true that a better screen may or may not help but I feel that ultimately I'll be left disappointed. Truthfully, I do not really like my OM bodies that much. Leicas and Rollei's are a joy to use, they seem to fit my hands perfectly, but an Olympus...too small. The lenses are fine, but so are all my other lenses. I don't think I'll be disapointed by Olympus Canon or Nikon...as long as it is in good shape.

So I'm just going to stop investing into it and try Nikon. If that fails then I'll stick with just rangefinders and live with their limitations.

 

[Godfrey]

Thanks for the advice, I'm just going Nikon.

Well the focal length is a very person choice. I don't care so much about telephotos. My preference is between 21-50. They say that you shouldn't shoot portraits with wide angles, but look at Jeanloup Sieff, it worked for him pretty well I'd say.

Anyways...it's true that a better screen may or may not help but I feel that ultimately I'll be left disappointed. ...

So I'm just going to stop investing into it and try Nikon. If that fails then I'll stick with just rangefinders and live with their limitations.

Nikon F or F2, fit an A screen. That does me for anything. The 20/3.5 AI-S (52mm filter ring) was my fav, the 20/2.8 good too. The 24/2.8... super. Same for the 28/2, 35/1.4 and 35/2. The 50/1.2 I have now is wonderful, the old 55/3.5 micro superb, the Nikkor-H 85/1.8 is legendary, as is the 105/2.5. Add 180/2.8ED AI-S and you have it all.

There are a number of 300, 400 and 600mm if you find yourself moving in that direction.

 

[Ade-oh]

I've just done a quick check with my Nikon F3HP, F5, Olympus OM-1n and OM-4ti. To be honest if there is any difference in viewfinder brightness between them, I can't see it. They all have 'standard' split-image focusing screens except for the F5 and all had F1.8 or F2 lenses attached. FWIW, I'd say go with what feels comfortable.

 

[shadowfox]

Thanks for the advice, I'm just going Nikon.

Well the focal length is a very person choice. I don't care so much about telephotos. My preference is between 21-50. They say that you shouldn't shoot portraits with wide angles, but look at Jeanloup Sieff, it worked for him pretty well I'd say.

I assume you're responding to my post above.
I was not at all saying that you *have to* use telephoto lenses. It is much easier to isolate your subjects and sometimes the results looks better if you do, that's why the general consensus is the way it is.

But hey, I use a 35mm lens for everything, including "portraits" 🙂

 

[Argenticien]

I owned an OM-2n, [...] Eventually it gave up, my tech said the IC was broken.

This could favor the Canon FD system, because if the same happens to an AE-1, you can buy another one for very little--or sometimes encounter them for free--to either replace or contribute parts to a knackered one. After all, there are four million of them, or whatever the absurd sales number was by the end of its run. (Yes, there are far fewer A-1 and F-1 units.) I'm not sure I've seen Olympi so often being let go for quite as little cash.
--Dave

 

[Texsport]

I prefer the Canon T90 for manual Canon FD lenses.

My Canon FD 85/1.2L rotates between the T90 and my OM-D.

Nikon F4 and Oly 4Ti are also used for their branded lenses.

Texsport

 

[Landshark]

If you're considering non-AI lenses you should be aware they don't mount on cameras that use the AI meter coupling. The coupling pin/peg/whatever protrudes far enough that the lenses will not physically mount. The peg hits the back of the aperture ring.
AI and AIS lenses have a notch that allows them to mount.
Some of the transitional cameras(FM,FE) had a flip--up peg so you could use all three F mount lens systems.

 

[photobymike]

A problem with many Canon SLRs is that they don't show you the shooting aperture in the viewfinder. With most Nikons, the aperture is shown in a little window, reflected off a secondary scale on the lens (AI lenses). In my early days, I used a Canon AE-1. Nice camera, but I always had to take my eye away from the finder window in order to see what the setting of the aperture and shutter were.

Also, I'm not sure that it's so wise to lock yourself in to a system that has been abandoned by the manufacturer. Spare parts and repairs will just continue to be harder to come by as time goes on.

I see the F stop in my F1N ... no problem and as far as the lenses go there is plenty on Ebay and other sources like KEH, and some are very reasonably priced. I have yet to find a "dog" Canon FD lens....Also no problem finding repair...just had my F1 CLAed.... Yea you can spend hundreds on new and great .... but my F1 was 155 with 2 really nice lenses... i am just sayin.....

 

[dtcls100]

I've used Olympus OM, Nikon FM2, FE2, and Canon A-1 cameras. While I personally prefer Olympus (particularly OM-4T with Series 2 screens), all of them are quite satisfactory for manual focusing and make lenses of comparable optical quality overall. I think one of the significant factors in deciding is which way the focusing ring of their lenses turns to infinity. Olympus OM and Canon (and most other brands as I recall) have infinity on the far right side of the focusing range, while Nikon turns the opposite way. Olympus is definitely more compact though and I prefer their handling.

 

[DNG]

I like the Nikon, I own a FE, + (24/2.8 Ais, 50/1.8 Ais Long Nose, 55/3.5 Ai'd Micro Nikkor, 100-300mm f/5.6 Ais Constant 5.6)

and for the money 35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4 Ai Versions are not too bad....

the 35/2 may run $400, and Original f/mount $300

The 50mm f/1.4 is cheaper, and the 50mm Nikkor-S f/1.4 (late 60's and 70's is an outstanding lens at all f/stops)..

The 24mm f/2 (I have the f/2.8 AiS) is around $500, BUT, the 24/2.8 AiS is better corrector IMO and very easy to focus with open aperture metering. and tack sharp at f/2.8 and under $275, most are around $200-240. Almost "0" distortion.. less than 1%! IMO.

The Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 non-Ai -$250 or so- will only meter wide open on: Nikon F/F2/F3/Nikkormats F/FT/Ftnx.
AND Ai (or Ai'd later) $350.
A OEM Ai $450.00 or so, if you can find them.

ANY Non-Ai lens can be used in Stop-Down with these modern Nikon's bodies.
F3/FM/FE/EL/EL2, these bodies have a swing-away Ai lever on the camera mount, so the lens can be mounted.

That is way I recommend "Ai" mounts at least.

Well, my suggestion... F3, or FE or FE2 (FE2 can't use Non-Ai lenses BUT, has a new high speed shutter, 1/250 Flash Sync, Top Speed 1/4000.

So, FE
24/2 or 2.8 Ai
35/2 Ai
50/1.4 Ai
85/1.8 N-Ai or Ai'd by a repair man/woman,

"Ai" allows open metering on F3 and above
"non Ai" allows open metering on F2 and below and more modern bodies as mentioned above.

 

[venchka]

Hmmmmmmmmmm.........

I don't see how any line of lenses could provide more Bang For The Buck than my modest assortment of Canon lenses. All in unused condition.
24/2.8, last version & mount, floating element, $60.
50/1.4 S.S.C. $50.
35/2.0 S.S.C., concave front element, floating rear element. No charge.
A pair of 50/1.8 S.C. lenses with A-1 & T50 bodies attached. < $45.

Wayne