OM, I've become a Zuikoholic!

the shutter dial on the front on the lens takes some getting used to.

I "grew up" with that shutter dial, so it seems so natural. You can focus, adjust aperture and shutter speed all with one hand. In practice it is faster for me than having the shutter speed dial on the top plate. If you have to adjust shutter speed then move your finger to the release button, you lose what may be critical time in getting a shot that requires quick reaction.

With the shutter speed dial on the mount on the body, the finger is always on the release.

And yeah, you got a great deal. The cops will be showing up to charge you with theft.
 
I "grew up" with that shutter dial, so it seems so natural. You can focus, adjust aperture and shutter speed all with one hand. In practice it is faster for me than having the shutter speed dial on the top plate. If you have to adjust shutter speed then move your finger to the release button, you lose what may be critical time in getting a shot that requires quick reaction.

With the shutter speed dial on the mount on the body, the finger is always on the release.

And yeah, you got a great deal. The cops will be showing up to charge you with theft.

ive gone into hiding so its unlikely i will ever be found lol.

im kind of new to film photography coming from digital. my first camera was a fuji stx-2.. love the meter read out but the shutter dial was to stiff so i picked up the om1n and nikon f black apollo at the same time and said which ever i prefer i would keep and sell the other.

my very first film camera was with the shutter dial on the top plate. ive put three rolls through the om1n. first two was sooo awkward it was as if i had never ever use a camera. last one was better.

what you stated is why i bought the camera i can adjust focus, aperture and shutter with one hand. the biggest issue i have with this camera is the metering needle in the viewfinder. You cant see it in most conditions. it needs to have enough available light. As im still learning photography and reading light i use the meter to get middle grey then adjust to look im wanting but this meter needle is extremely hard to work with.
 
zuiko 50 1.4 om2
med_U54568I1449169420.SEQ.0.jpg
 
OM-4 question about the dim viewfinder

OM-4 question about the dim viewfinder

Could someone tell me if the dim and somewhat blurry viewfinder of the Olympus OM-4 I recently purchased is normal? The camera seems to have the standard focusing screen, and it has a 50mm f1.8 lens mounted on it. The view is sharp only in the split focus circle in the center of the viewfinder and fairly blurry and dim throughout the rest of the viewfinder. Stopping the camera up or down makes no difference. I bought the camera for its 97% viewfinder coverage and 83% magnification. But the viewfinder has been a big disappointment. Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
There is something wrong; the view should be bright and even. Maybe not as bright as an OM-1, but certainly not as you describe.
 
Could someone tell me if the dim and somewhat blurry viewfinder of the Olympus OM-4 I recently purchased is normal? The camera seems to have the standard focusing screen, and it has a 50mm f1.8 lens mounted on it. The view is sharp only in the split focus circle in the center of the viewfinder and fairly blurry and dim throughout the rest of the viewfinder. Stopping the camera up or down makes no difference. I bought the camera for its 97% viewfinder coverage and 83% magnification. But the viewfinder has been a big disappointment. Thanks for any help you can provide.

You need to check two things. First, the diopter setting is likely off for your vision. Gently pull out the knob on the right side of the prism and rotate the knob gently backwards or forwards until the edges of the focusing aid appear sharpest. Do this gently as the knob can get stuck insome cameras due to dried lube and you don't want to break anything. Once it is sharp, push the knob back in and you are good to go. Do this with the lens off and looking at a blank, evenly illuminated wall.

If this doesn't work, take the lens off and make sure the focusing screen is set flush with the bottom of the prism chamber.
 
I'm going to dig out one of my OM-10's that haven't been used in years and shoot a couple of rolls.

I remember always getting pleasant results from OM-10 and want to see if that still holds up.
 
I bought my first OM-1 back in 1976. Still have it. Current count is... (drum roll.....)

OM-1 = 6 bodies (3 chrome, 3 black)

OM-2 = 3 bodies (all black)

Total 9 bodies.

24 lenses. In the last month I bought the Zuiko 21mm f/3.5 & a Sigma 16mm Filtermatic fish-eye, and the third version of the Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm f/2.8-4 zoom.

I have the MD-1 and MD-2, Ni-Cad control packs, a bunch of Winder-2s, etc.

Why so many bodies? The last 3 I got as packaged deals with a motor drive or lens I wanted. So I just kept the body as well.

Two of the OM-1 bodies and the MD-2 & Control Pack-2 are at zuiko.com for service. John Hermanson is the best OM service guy in the USA. Now that he is doing OM repairs part time, turn around times are long but well worth the wait.

I do have a crazy plan for all the OM-1 bodies but that's another story.

So far I have been able to resist GAS pains for the 250exp back.....
 
Okay Zuikoholics, see if you can pick the Zuiko image.

The following two images were taken with Ilford Pan F 50 film under almost identical conditions. Same subject, same location, only about 15 minutes apart. One of them was taken with my trusty OM2n with a 50/1.8 at f4, the other with a "mystery camera" also fitted with a 50mm lens set at f4.

Please take a look and let me know which one you think is the Zuiko, and also which one you think looks better.






By the way if you're wondering about the wine, it was a waste of 9 bucks. Tasted crap!

Cheers!
 
I see more of the flowers in her hair in the second pic and the top left side of the bottle
also seems to have the flare better controlled on the second picture. Is the second image made with the Zuiko ? Peter
 
Second looks crisper -- see the letters towards the bottom of the bottle. The bokeh also differs, with the second one having more "continuous" gradation of tones; the first seems to have more discrete jumps -- dee to viewer's right of the bottle, a bit above half-way. I'll leave the hard part -- guessing the "mystery camera" (lens?) to others; it's above my pay grade.

Giorgio
 
Back
Top Bottom