Gerry M
Gerry
Does anyone have first hand experience using OM Zuiko's on a m4/3 body? I have 24, 28, 35 & 50 that I am wondering about using on a G1. Also, are the Fotodiox adapters worthwhile? Your input is appreciated.
Gerry
Gerry
AncientCityPhoto
Established
I got an some ebay adapter to do this. I have used the 200 f/4, the 50 1.4, and the 85-250 OM lenses on the Epm1. I have also used a tokina 500mm with a 2x to make a 2000mm equivalent. Crazy.
It actually works really well. OM lenses are a lot easier to manually focus on these cameras than the m4/3 lenses. In fact, I rarely have to magnify with the OM lenses in order to focus. The real manual focus is so much better vs digital manual focus!
The size and weight of the lenses does negate the compactness of these cameras however!
It actually works really well. OM lenses are a lot easier to manually focus on these cameras than the m4/3 lenses. In fact, I rarely have to magnify with the OM lenses in order to focus. The real manual focus is so much better vs digital manual focus!
The size and weight of the lenses does negate the compactness of these cameras however!
kuzano
Veteran
I did this for a while...only advantage fast primes
I did this for a while...only advantage fast primes
Once I realized that most of the native lens for both the 4/3 and m4/3 systems outshot the OM and other legacy lenses, it came down to the hassle of manual focus simply wasn't work it. I only keep one 50mm 1.4 lens around (OM Zuiko) for bokeh.
No money savings unless you already have the lenses, because the prices have risen for any of the good primes that will adapt.
I do have one Tamron Adapt-all II 35-80 that gives me 70-160, macro and 2.8 - 3.8. However, I think it's been a couple of years since I've had it on the camera.
I tend toward lenses that have a split image center, with prism surround. Most other lenses don't focus well for me.
Thank goodness I shoot large format so fussing with all the steps doesn't bother me too much.
1) Set camera on aperture mode
2) Focus wide open
3) Stop down to desired f-stop
4) recheck focus and shoot
Native lenses... Set on P, let camera focus, shoot, and perhaps get an equivalent or better image. ?????
Now comes the irony. Hell, I'm going to photoshop the image anyway. It's not going the be the end result of which lens I use.
But, I understand the nature in this. I'm less likely to presume that the camera is efficient the way it was designed and I wil tend to spend hours jerking myself around with all this gimmickry.
I did this for a while...only advantage fast primes
Once I realized that most of the native lens for both the 4/3 and m4/3 systems outshot the OM and other legacy lenses, it came down to the hassle of manual focus simply wasn't work it. I only keep one 50mm 1.4 lens around (OM Zuiko) for bokeh.
No money savings unless you already have the lenses, because the prices have risen for any of the good primes that will adapt.
I do have one Tamron Adapt-all II 35-80 that gives me 70-160, macro and 2.8 - 3.8. However, I think it's been a couple of years since I've had it on the camera.
I tend toward lenses that have a split image center, with prism surround. Most other lenses don't focus well for me.
Thank goodness I shoot large format so fussing with all the steps doesn't bother me too much.
1) Set camera on aperture mode
2) Focus wide open
3) Stop down to desired f-stop
4) recheck focus and shoot
Native lenses... Set on P, let camera focus, shoot, and perhaps get an equivalent or better image. ?????
Now comes the irony. Hell, I'm going to photoshop the image anyway. It's not going the be the end result of which lens I use.
But, I understand the nature in this. I'm less likely to presume that the camera is efficient the way it was designed and I wil tend to spend hours jerking myself around with all this gimmickry.
kuzano
Veteran
I did this for a while...only advantage fast primes
I did this for a while...only advantage fast primes
Once I realized that most of the native lens for both the 4/3 and m4/3 systems outshot the OM and other legacy lenses, it came down to the hassle of manual focus simply wasn't work it. I only keep one 50mm 1.4 lens around (OM Zuiko) for bokeh.
No money savings unless you already have the lenses, because the prices have risen for any of the good primes that will adapt.
I do have one Tamron Adapt-all II 35-80 that gives me 70-160, macro and 2.8 - 3.8. However, I think it's been a couple of years since I've had it on the camera.
I tend toward lenses that have a split image center, with prism surround. Most other lenses don't focus well for me.
Thank goodness I shoot large format so fussing with all the steps doesn't bother me too much.
1) Set camera on aperture mode
2) Focus wide open
3) Stop down to desired f-stop
4) recheck focus and shoot
Native lenses... Set on P, let camera focus, shoot, and perhaps get an equivalent or better image. ?????
But, I understand the nature in this. I'm less likely to presume that the camera is efficient the way it was designed and spend hours jerking myself around with all this gimmickry.
I did this for a while...only advantage fast primes
Once I realized that most of the native lens for both the 4/3 and m4/3 systems outshot the OM and other legacy lenses, it came down to the hassle of manual focus simply wasn't work it. I only keep one 50mm 1.4 lens around (OM Zuiko) for bokeh.
No money savings unless you already have the lenses, because the prices have risen for any of the good primes that will adapt.
I do have one Tamron Adapt-all II 35-80 that gives me 70-160, macro and 2.8 - 3.8. However, I think it's been a couple of years since I've had it on the camera.
I tend toward lenses that have a split image center, with prism surround. Most other lenses don't focus well for me.
Thank goodness I shoot large format so fussing with all the steps doesn't bother me too much.
1) Set camera on aperture mode
2) Focus wide open
3) Stop down to desired f-stop
4) recheck focus and shoot
Native lenses... Set on P, let camera focus, shoot, and perhaps get an equivalent or better image. ?????
But, I understand the nature in this. I'm less likely to presume that the camera is efficient the way it was designed and spend hours jerking myself around with all this gimmickry.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
The 2x crop factor means no joy when using wide angle OM Zuikos.
But it also means that you can use the compact telephoto OM such as 135/2.8 or longer with ease on m4/3rd bodies.
I use mine up to the 300/4.5 OM Zuiko and it works well.
But it also means that you can use the compact telephoto OM such as 135/2.8 or longer with ease on m4/3rd bodies.
I use mine up to the 300/4.5 OM Zuiko and it works well.