pevelg
Well-known
Very nice pictures.
One body, one lens, only for low light work
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Very nice pictures.
furcafe
Veteran
Sounds like you're not going to be shooting in very many super low-light situations (though a lot of restaurants are very dark) & there are indeed many meterless bodies out there. Rather than a shoe-mounted meter, however, I would suggest just going w/a small handheld for the same amount of money, like the Gossen Digisix or the nearest Sekonic counterpart, because that will give you the option of taking incident readings, too. If you can swing the expense, however, I still think TTL metering is best for low-light shooting because of the strange variations that you may encounter w/indoor lighting due to its greater directionality.
You should be able to get a truly working M2 or M3 in decent cosmetic condition (i.e., KEH "bargain") for about $850. I know nothing about current M5 prices but I would assume they go for more due to the built-in meter & relative scarcity.
You should be able to get a truly working M2 or M3 in decent cosmetic condition (i.e., KEH "bargain") for about $850. I know nothing about current M5 prices but I would assume they go for more due to the built-in meter & relative scarcity.
thomasw_
Well-known
Yes, Roland is bang on with the 1,2K budget.
M2 + 35/1.4 CV. If you could handle the size/weight of the 35/1.2 and couple of extra hundred bills, I would suggest it due its wonderful, beautiful rendering. I have no connection to the seller, but if you PM sepiareverb or Bob here at RFF, he would likely sell you his Nokton 35/1,2 for 775USD. But that's only if you are willing to spend a bit more. Otherwise the 35/1,4 is the best deal!
M2 + 35/1.4 CV. If you could handle the size/weight of the 35/1.2 and couple of extra hundred bills, I would suggest it due its wonderful, beautiful rendering. I have no connection to the seller, but if you PM sepiareverb or Bob here at RFF, he would likely sell you his Nokton 35/1,2 for 775USD. But that's only if you are willing to spend a bit more. Otherwise the 35/1,4 is the best deal!
pevelg
Well-known
I already have the Gossen Lunar Pro. In the past, I used to only shoot with the Zorki 4k or Fed5, no meter but a Lunar Pro S (which I regrettably sold). I had very good results majority of the time. A built in meter is just a great perk.
So lets say I go with a meter-less body to save cost, and get either a 35mm f1.2 nokton or a similarly fast lens, same or lower cost. That puts me at a little above the 1.2k mark if I go with a Leica body.
pevelg
Well-known
Well, I think I will go ahead and budget for the 35mm 1.2 then. I've liked the results thus far from posting here, and I think the weight will be fine, considering that I already use the M7ii as my default system. I will go ahead a do some research on the M2... M3 is out of question if using a 35mm lens. Also, I thought that the 35mm f1.2 lens was ltm, but camera quest shows it as m mount. This mean no ltm bodies as an option??
kermaier
Well-known
You can't get a Leica body with a built-in meter, plus a faster-than-f/2 lens for $1200 unless you're willing to wait, scour used ads and get lucky. If you want extremely usable equipment, albeit with less cachet, go for Cosina Voigtlander. Buy the body new and the lenses new or used.
If you're not sure whether you prefer 35mm or 50mm, split the difference and go for a Bessa R3A body ($570) with a CV 40/1.4 lens ($400). You get a 1.0x (lifesize) magnification viewfinder, aperture-priority AE and a modern classic lens.
Otherwise, go with the Bessa R2A body (0.7x finder) and either the CV 35/1.2, 35/1.4 or 50/1.5 (a great lens at $400).
::Ari
If you're not sure whether you prefer 35mm or 50mm, split the difference and go for a Bessa R3A body ($570) with a CV 40/1.4 lens ($400). You get a 1.0x (lifesize) magnification viewfinder, aperture-priority AE and a modern classic lens.
Otherwise, go with the Bessa R2A body (0.7x finder) and either the CV 35/1.2, 35/1.4 or 50/1.5 (a great lens at $400).
::Ari
Tuolumne
Veteran
Get an M5 body. It has the best built-in light meter Leica ever made: a wideish spot meter with match needle metering, where you can determine the exposure to a fraction of an EV. Too bad Leica glass is out or I would recommend the current 35mm f1.4 Summilux - a stellar low light performer. If not that, then perhaps one of the fast f1.4 CV lenses, either a 35mm or 40mm. I think 35mm is the best overall for your purposes. 50mm may be too tight for group shots where you cannot back off in a crowd.
/T
/T
Jason Sprenger
Well-known
I second the recommendation for the ZI particularly if you want to use the Nokton 35/1.2. The ZI has the best finder for the 35/1.2 as it will be blocked less by the lens than on a Leica M2.
In LTM, a Nokton 50/1.5 is about the best option there is short of that limited run of LTM Summilux Leica did a while ago. A Bessa R would be the budget option, but an M-mount with an adapter can work too.
In LTM, a Nokton 50/1.5 is about the best option there is short of that limited run of LTM Summilux Leica did a while ago. A Bessa R would be the budget option, but an M-mount with an adapter can work too.
Austerby
Well-known
Bessa R3a + 40/1.4 Nokton works well for me.
The 1:1 viewfinder is great in low light, there's full manual controls with the AE for when you need it. The lens is fast and light. A great combination.
The 1:1 viewfinder is great in low light, there's full manual controls with the AE for when you need it. The lens is fast and light. A great combination.
aizan
Veteran
how about a leica cl with a 40/1.4 nokton?
pevelg
Well-known
I have been browsing the classifieds and noticed the Canon P and 7. This of course would limit me to a ltm lens. Are there faster ltm lenses than the 50mm f1.5 nokton and 35mm 1.7 ultron? How are the viewfinders on these cameras? This seems like the most ideal lowest priced solid construction manual non metered option.
How does loading film on the M2/3 compare to the m6?
Tough the bessas are ok, I've used the R3m and prefer not to go that route again. The camera is fine, I just don't like it. Not really sure why.
How does loading film on the M2/3 compare to the m6?
Tough the bessas are ok, I've used the R3m and prefer not to go that route again. The camera is fine, I just don't like it. Not really sure why.
pevelg
Well-known
Well, here are my preliminary choices based on lens:
50mm Nokton f1.5 (~350):
-Canon P (<200)
-M3 + adapter (~800?)
-CL???
-Hexar RF (-650)
-other ltm bodies?
35mm Nokton f1.2 (~750):
-M2 (~$500)
-ZI (~$850)
-Hexar RF (-650)
-CL???
Not sure if I would like the ergonomics of the CL, especially if getting a large lens.
edit: added hexar
50mm Nokton f1.5 (~350):
-Canon P (<200)
-M3 + adapter (~800?)
-CL???
-Hexar RF (-650)
-other ltm bodies?
35mm Nokton f1.2 (~750):
-M2 (~$500)
-ZI (~$850)
-Hexar RF (-650)
-CL???
Not sure if I would like the ergonomics of the CL, especially if getting a large lens.
edit: added hexar
Last edited:
maddoc
... likes film again.
M6 (because you want a meter) or even better M4-P (no meter but in low-light situations, reflective TTL metering is more counterproductive) + 40mm M-Rokkor CLE. Should set you back to ~ $1.000 total.
About Neopan Superpresto 1600PR rated @ box-speed.... It is a quite high-contrast film and some caution is necessary when scanning that film. I prefer Superpresto 1600 every time over pushed Tri-X (muddy) or Tmax3200 (muddy + grainy):
!600PR / S-Prodol
About Neopan Superpresto 1600PR rated @ box-speed.... It is a quite high-contrast film and some caution is necessary when scanning that film. I prefer Superpresto 1600 every time over pushed Tri-X (muddy) or Tmax3200 (muddy + grainy):
!600PR / S-Prodol
aizan
Veteran
oh, in that case, you might want to avoid superspeed lenses (35/1.2 or 50/1.1, for example) because of ergonomic issues.
kxl
Social Documentary
If the choice comes down to a metered v. non-metered body, then I'd pick the metered body. If the price difference is significant, then get the non-metered body and a Gossen Luna Pro S (best handheld meter for low light) -- going cheap on ebay these days.
pevelg
Well-known
I've had the 85mm Jupiter f2, which was a decent lens that I did not mind handling. The CL body seems to puny to make handling a lens like the 50 or 35mm nokton.
Any opinions on the Canon P as a low light tool? I am really interested in how it's vf compares to the likes of the M6ttl and bessa's.
I have Luna Pro, none S, already. Though I prefer a built in meter due to holding less things, that fact that I have a hand held one and the premium that must be paid to have a built in one, makes me think it is more conceivable to go the non-metered body route. How often does one need to change exposure in a dimly lit situation anyways? The light range is not that significant, as compared to outdoors/shade, is it?
Pablito
coco frío
I love b&w film but honestly for low light nothing beats a good dslr with a fast prime lens. Well, someone had to say the obvious...
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
consider: M4-P plus 40/1.4 VC.
Krosya
Konicaze
I'm a big fan of low light photogrpahy and fast lenses. After trying some different combinations I settled for :
Hexar RF with CV 35/1.2:
pic from it:
and Leica M5 with Hexanon 50/1.2:
and pic from Hexanon 50/1.2 (taken on Hexar RF though):
I prefer Hexar RF in use, but M5 makes for a nice all manual back-up.
Hexar RF with CV 35/1.2:
pic from it:
and Leica M5 with Hexanon 50/1.2:
and pic from Hexanon 50/1.2 (taken on Hexar RF though):
I prefer Hexar RF in use, but M5 makes for a nice all manual back-up.
pevelg
Well-known
Well, I have been doing a ton of online reading and I've pretty much arrived to a conclusion on the body:
and it is.......
the......
M4P!!!!! I am seeing these go between $500 and $700, reading about many happy people here with it and other places as well. The whole "made in Canada, no brass top, different finder" worried me at first, but the price is just right and many good reviews.. Of all the cameras I've used the M6ttl was my all time favorite, I even like it better than the Mamiya 7ii. No Leica can beat MF though... so.... As the M4p is the predecessor to the M6, it is a good transition. Now comes the waiting game of finding a good one. I will try not using ebay, unless there is a good BIN +bing.com discount.
As for the lens, I am still on the edge. The 35mm f1.2 will most likely send me over my 1.2k limit. The Nokton 50 f1.5 + adapter though will most likely give a total of under 1k. I have used the 40mm Nokton f1.4 and though I liked the results, I did not like its ergonomics. Never been to fond of tabbed lenses (though the tabbed collapsible industar ##? was a joy to use).
The Hexanon 50mm is such a beautiful lens!!! 🙂
and it is.......
the......
M4P!!!!! I am seeing these go between $500 and $700, reading about many happy people here with it and other places as well. The whole "made in Canada, no brass top, different finder" worried me at first, but the price is just right and many good reviews.. Of all the cameras I've used the M6ttl was my all time favorite, I even like it better than the Mamiya 7ii. No Leica can beat MF though... so.... As the M4p is the predecessor to the M6, it is a good transition. Now comes the waiting game of finding a good one. I will try not using ebay, unless there is a good BIN +bing.com discount.
As for the lens, I am still on the edge. The 35mm f1.2 will most likely send me over my 1.2k limit. The Nokton 50 f1.5 + adapter though will most likely give a total of under 1k. I have used the 40mm Nokton f1.4 and though I liked the results, I did not like its ergonomics. Never been to fond of tabbed lenses (though the tabbed collapsible industar ##? was a joy to use).
The Hexanon 50mm is such a beautiful lens!!! 🙂
