One Film One Developer

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Poppers

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I'm new to developing my own film and want to begin as simple as possible. I'm in the UK so bearing that in mind what film/developer conbinations do people recommed.

Film should be easy to develop and chemicals should be readily available. Looking to scan the results initially. I'm thinking sticking with one type of film and chemical until i'm more proficient is the way to go

regards
M
 
Poppers said:
I'm new to developing my own film and want to begin as simple as possible. I'm in the UK so bearing that in mind what film/developer conbinations do people recommed.

Film should be easy to develop and chemicals should be readily available. Looking to scan the results initially. I'm thinking sticking with one type of film and chemical until i'm more proficient is the way to go

regards
M
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Kodak Tri-X

Premixed: Ilford DD-X, which even Jessops carries. Decant it in to smaller glass bottles, so it will last longer after you open it.

Powders:
Kodak D76 or Ilford ID11 - The classic Tri-X combo
Kodak XTOL (similar to Ilford DD-X) - Better for push processing
 
Depends on the speed you like... For slow, my favorite is FP4 and Rodinal. For cheaper film options - Rollei Retro 100. If faster - HP5 plus in xtol.
 
For UK, easy to find, easy to develop, probably the least expensive and to cover almost all lighting conditions with excellent results; the basic formula since years: HP5+ in ID-11 (D76) as long as you do not exceed ISO800. Higher DD-X...
 
Fujifilm Acros 100 in a Rodinal formula is my favourite combo. Easy to get in the UK. I push it to 200 most of the time.
 
Tmax 100 in d-76 1+1... by default.. I haven't toyed around with much else.. I did some neopan 1600 with hc110 dil b, but that film is no longer available.
 
As a beginner it makes sense to find the most cost-effective film and developer. I'd suggest looking at the Kentmere 400 (made by Ilford for about £3 per roll, 50p cheaper than Tri-X and £1 cheaper than HP5+) and Kodak D76 (same as ID11 but a lot cheaper - Ag Photographic sells D76 for about £1.40 for a litre vs £4.80 for ID11 - other suppliers are available and may be cheaper).
 
Silverprint has Agfa APX100 at a good price, works nice in R09 etc. Tri X or Tmax400 costs less than HP5 these days, there are other good value 400 iso films but I have no experience with them, I think they don't make fuji 400 apart from the C41 stuff anymore. With 400 asa films I think I prefer Xtol over D76 but I am not certain yet, I prefer it for pushing to 800+ though. Process Suplies in London has the best price on TriX/Tmax I have found by the way.
 
Before moving to D76, I started with Diafine, which understandably doesn't get a lot of love here because it is limiting as far as control over tonality of the negative, but I actually think it was quite helpful for me to start there. Diafine is hard to mess up and it gave me confidence and time to get the basics down pat. If I were to do it all over again, I might start with something else, though. Not to mention, I am not sure how easy it would be to find in the UK.

All that said, my recommendation would be Tri-X 400 and D76.
 
Funny how someone asks for "easy" and get responses of "What I like..."

Easiest of all are HP5 and Tri-X, in D76 (Assuming they are all widely available in the UK)***

*** Exception - obviously Diafine is THE EASIEST to use, but you would be limited in EI's.
 
Ilford all the way. HP5 and DDX -- the latter instead of ID-11 because it's an easy-to-use liquid concentrate and lasts a VERY long time in concentrated form.

Cheers,

R.
 
kxl said:
Funny how someone asks for "easy" and get responses of "What I like..." .
Click to expand...
Usualy what one likes is "easy". Well, I would not recomend Tmax and Delta as they are highly capable, but not easy. If "easy" covers " easy to get", then Tri-X. If "easy" covers "easy to store", then Rodinal or HC110.
 
I started with Ilford HP5 in DD-X and would recommend that as a good beginner combination. You don't have to worry about mixing a powder developer and HP5 seems pretty tolerant of less than perfect developing conditions.
 
Poppers: Aren't you glad you asked? :D

Do some searches for on flickr or other sites that allow the proper search, find what you like that matches your subject interests, pick one and go to it. Otherwise you will be reading this thread until film is no longer available.
 
A highly concentrated one shot developer like HC110 (dilution F) or Rodinal last a long time, is cheap and easy handle/use. The film should be something that is easily available; I would choose a conventional grain type such as HP5+ .
 
Tri-X and D76, 1:1. The film is dope. The developer can be eyeballed half water, half D76. The process is forgiving. And reliable.
 
Poppers said:
Thanks so much guys, what a friendly and helpful bunch you all are.
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In your situation, I would listen to Roger's suggestion.

My personal choices are Adox CHS 25/50/100, FP4, Tri-X (or HP5 whichever I can get cheaper) all souped in Rodinal.
 
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