One Film One Developer

I use a lot of medium speed film, but if I were to use only one film, then versatility has got to be the most important consideration; so I would choose TriX or HP5. There are many situations where the extra film speed is very helpful. In addition these films have slightly less inherent contrast. It is easier to deal with less contrast than you want, rather than more contrast, in my view. For a developer, one of the standard fine grain developers already mentioned.
 
I think the easiest combo for the beginner would be T-Max film in T-Max developer. Good to great results, easy to mix and the developer syrup lasts a long time. Having said that, my favorite combo is Plus-X (now discontinued?) and D-76. I love the tonality. If Plus-X is gone, I'm going to have to experiment with the Ilford films and T-Max.
 
OT: Will, Adox CHS 100 in Rodinal is really, really interesting and fun. When I first posted a shot with that combo on flickr, I wasn't very excited about it. (You probably remember that shot :) ) ... but the more I look at it, the more I like it. I've got more CHS in my cart on Freestyle. :D
 
You said it: one film, one developer AND KEEP IT SIMPLE. Just get a quality film (you are in England so Ilford, maybe HP5), then get any developer, but get something one shot: Ilford has some (or Rodinal).

NOW we get to the important stuff: find the speed you like for your film (usually slower than the box speed for me, but who knows what you will like), then find a time for your development AND an agitation scheme (both important). Be consistent with your time, temp and agitation, and you will get finally good negatives. In the end you will have to scan your negatives, don't let someone else do it. Send your scanned file to a good lab and evaluate. After a year you will say, 'hey I'm getting it.' If you choose to do it a different way it will take you 8-10 years (I know).

Don't worry too much about metering, just use a film camera with an in-camera meter to start. If you are hand metering use the same meter the same way every time. Do not change more than one thing at a time.
 
You are in the UK, so go for HP5 and possibly ID11 as that will come pretty close to the TriX/D76 that ruled the roost for decades on this side of the pond.
The critical part is to shoot yourself "in" with a film and only change one thing at a time (time, dilution, speed etc) and keep notes of what you are doing.
A medium speed (400 iso) will allow you to shoot in just about any condition (bright light, outdoors, indoors etc) and as you get used to what a specific film will do with your way of metering and processing you can establish what you need later. Spend a year shooting (and shoot a LOT - film is relatively cheap compared to cameras/lenses etc) with the same film/developer combination and soon you will shoot for composition and look of image - rather than trying to figure out which film to use and deal with those variables - which can detract from the pleasure of taking pictures.

PS, also use the web/net and picture sites like Flickr etc and tag what film you are interested in and what developers. There is a huge amount of information available today. Look at pictures and see what you like - and ask questions.
 
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We are blessed in the UK with a few specialist shops which will do mail order at reasonable rates. Pursue the suggestions here:

http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/index.asp
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/
http://www.mathersoflancashire.co.uk/ (for film)
http://www.processuk.net/
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/
http://www.novadarkroom.com/cat/166/Film_Processing_Tanks_&_Drums.html
http://www.thedarkroom.co.uk/products_class.php?getBrand=132&getCategory=122

Inclusion is not a personal recommendation and omissions are open for correction.:D
 
ChrisLivsey said:
We are blessed in the UK with a few specialist shops which will do mail order at reasonable rates. Pursue the suggestions here:

http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/index.asp
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/
http://www.mathersoflancashire.co.uk/ (for film)
http://www.processuk.net/
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/
http://www.novadarkroom.com/cat/166/Film_Processing_Tanks_&_Drums.html
http://www.thedarkroom.co.uk/products_class.php?getBrand=132&getCategory=122

Inclusion is not a personal recommendation and omissions are open for correction.:D
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Thanks for this I really appreciate it.
 
I'm a Tri-X, Acros 100, and HC-110 man. I've only tried 4-5 other developers, but my quest for simplicity and repeatability ended when I tried HC-110. The syrup is perfect for long term storage (I've thrown out too many bottles of short shelf life developers every time I decide to shoot digital again). And for film I just simply love the Acros tones (it scans so well) and the Tri-X is, well, the Tri-X. It does it all (push, pull, stand) well.
 
No specific recommendations, but what I did was to pick a film that is some combination of good and cheap (TriX qualifies for both here in the USA, so that's what I picked), and a developer that has a long shelf life (I chose HC110). That way, failed experiments are not costly failed experiments, and one can be reasonably sure of consuming the developer before it goes bad. As a bonus, HC110 is metol-free (metol is one of the nastier chemicals found in developers, and causes allergic reactions in many).
 
Poppers, just noticed you are Manchester. You should pop into The real camera Company. They do have darkroom equipment, I picked up a bulk loader recently enlargers etc. Good guys.
http://www.realcamera.co.uk/
Web site is rubbish but the shop is great. Just don't buy any IXMOO cassettes please I need more next time I go :D
 
Tom A said:
...................... Spend a year shooting (and shoot a LOT - film is relatively cheap compared to cameras/lenses etc) with the same film/developer combination and soon you will shoot for composition and look of image - rather than trying to figure out which film to use and deal with those variables - which can detract from the pleasure of taking pictures. ............................
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I can't say it any better than Tom, so I will just repost his excellent comment. I did this 8-9 years ago and still have not effectively changed anything yet.
 
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