Open and clean a lens

[BVG]

Hi there,

It's very hard to open and clean a lens?
Anyone here did it?
I think my Oly 35 SP got a little of fungs 🙁

Thanks again..

 

[clintock]

It's not too hard, the tough thing is keeping in mind that you cannot let anything that your fingers or skin has come in contact with touch the glass. I use a pair of tweezers to put on a surgical glove (the kind without powder), use tweezers to put the first glove on one hand, then the glove hand can put the glove on the bare hand. Those tweezers can't be touched by a gloved hand! Also, every tool, can of air, everything must be cleaned first, so that no oil from skin that may be on the tool will get onto the glove then find it's way onto the cleaning cloth, then onto the glass.
Remember that internal coatings can be softer than the external coating. I use a microfiber cloth sold in eyeglass cleaning kits.
I also use the cleaning fluid in the eyeglass kit, misted onto the cloth, then use distilled water to clean the little bit of fluid off the glass. Be gentle!
When fitting the clean and dry element back in, I use a can of air as sold to clean computer keyboards. Blast the dust from inside of the lens assy, then keep blasting air some while the element is lowered into place.
Dust and most of all skin oil are your enemies.

The way NOT to clean lens elements is with paper lens tissue, bare hands and worst of all, wiping a few wipes then-horror- turning the tissue over so the oily part that was in contact with fingertips gets smeared onto the glass..

Just remember, nothing that has been touched by fingers, and nothing that has been touched by something that has been touched by fingers can be used to wipe the glass.

 

[bsdunek]

I have always heard that when reassembling a lens it must be recollimated. You can't just take it apart and put it together, or it won't be properly collimated, and may not focus just right, or at least at certain distances.
This has always made me afraid to disassemble a lens, except it they are mounted on a shutter, and just take off the two sections.
What are others experiences here? I do have a couple of lenses with dust inside, and would like to clean them.
The advice from clintlock certenley makes sense - I wouldn't want any skin oils on the lens elements as it would result in smears, causing problems. 😎

 

[Kim Coxon]

If you are looking at a few specks of dust, it is probably best to leave well enough alone. If it is more serious such as fungus then something needs to be done before permanent damage is done. If the repair costs more than the camera is worth, I would go ahead and do it bearing in mind Clintock's advice. I would also use something to "kill" the fungus spores. If it is an expensive lens or camera, I would be tempted to get a pro job done. In most cases, the lens elements are seated firmly against a machined edge so it is not likely to affect the collimation but it comes down to personal choice in the end.

Kim

 

[payasam]

With what does one kill fungus spores, Kim?

 

[Kim Coxon]

Try this thread. http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24234&highlight=fungus

Saves me typing it all out. 😉

Kim

With what does one kill fungus spores, Kim?

 

[clintock]

Some lenses will need to be re-collimated, others not. The lens on a minox 35 does require collimation, because the front element is screwed on, while a leitz summicron for example does not, because it's all put together with spacers and perhaps a shim here or there.
So long as you put all the spacers, shims and elements back like they came out, the lens will be fine.

I have not taken an Oly 35 SP lens apart, so I don't know if it needs to be recollimated or not, but even on the ones with the screw-out groups, you can sometimes scribe a mark before disassembly which will enable you to know how to put the screwed on part back to the same place it was..

Oh wait, most of what I just typed was said above- doe..

As to lens ring tools. I've tried commercial ones, but I keep using and having the most confidence inspiring results (never a slip or mark) with a tool I made by simply grinding the nose of some needle nosed pliers in such a way to make the tips fit into the slots on the retainer rings. When the pliers are open, the ground tips fit perfectly and the tool will not flex.
Putting the camera on a sheet of drawer liner rubber stuff, or the rubberized web that is made to prevent rugs from slipping on a smooth floor, I carefully use both hands to hold the plier tool, checking to be sure that nothing is going to gouge a trench in anything once the tool moves the ring.. Once it moves a little bit, I use a plastic stick or tootpicks to turn the ring out the rest of the way.

 

[Xmas]

Paysam

Some people recommend the ammonia based wind glass cleaners, I've used alcohol myself no sign of a return of fungus over one year, but it is temperate here and normally low humidity.

I had lenses etched by condensation, did not seem to be at all fungus like, (some of) the optical glasses can be deliciate.

Early lenses especially '50 Leitz lenses has soft internal coatings that dont need more than a rub and they are gone... Zeiss and FSU seem to be hard coated through out.

As well as scratching with a lens spanner or ground down pointed nose pliers (which I use), there is the danger of damage to the loose elements, Ive dropped one! Work over a tray or bed cloths.

J8M dont have proper location for their front element, RPinchbeck recommends a vibrator.

Many lenses are not water proof and too much lens cleaning fluid and you need to strip to remove.

I'd not take a valuable lens apart, - only take a cheap lens apart for lots of mosture or fungus, live with dust or paint flecks, they won't matter

Noel

 

[payasam]

Kim and Noel, thanks. A much loved Canon FD lens, cleaned less than four years ago, is again becoming home to fungus.