original (larger) ql19 canon GL question

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pixelvandal

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Hi everyone, i just picked up my first film rangefinder, one of the older canon ql19's
the same one shown in this forum thread http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-canonet-ql19-t10023.html
(sorry if im not supposed to cross post to other forums, but this is the easiest way to show a picture of the model.
the copy i picked up seems in fantastic condition, no dings etc, clean lens, shutter works nicely, self timer, clear viewfinder etc.
now.... it doesnt have a battery so i cant test the meter. and when looking for information, i keep finding info for the newer, smaller ql19 and ql17, which i think took a different battery?
can anyone point me in the right direction? is there an alkaline battery i can use or will i need to order a zinc air battery or something?

also.... not being used to rangefinders, it seems like the RF patch could stand to have a little more contrast for easier focusing, any tips? does cleaning a certain thing help? or i read somewhere painting a inner surface black under the top plate helps?

kind regards all! looking forward to having a bit of fun with her 🙂
 
I have a canonet 'S' which is similar, I believe they both take a 1.35v PX-1 battery, which is no longer made. There seem to be some alkaline 'versions' online, but alkaline is not good. You'd could try to come up with some sort of adapter for it, there is a lot of room. Excellent finder on this camera! I cleaned my finder, no black paint, just don't touch/clean the angled half mirror or the little rotating first surface mirror.
 
Be advised the meter only works in Auto mode. If you want to use it in true manual mode, you'll need a hand held meter. If you have a local shop, spend the money for a good CLA. This will clear a lot of the haze out of the viewfinder (making the rangefinder patch brighter) plus it most likely needs new light seals by this time. Check the net and there are plenty of opinions about which battery to use. They're a fun camera to use and worth getting cleaned up.
 
Hello pixelvandal,

can you please tell us about the viewfinder?
I am interested how the frameline looks like.
I have painted you a picture of 2 frameline sets from Canonet rf's I have found. Please tell me which one is for your older larger Canonet.

Is the lens barrel visible when you look through the viewfinder?
Is it blocking any part of the frameline?

And: Is there any colour tint inside the viewfinder? I guess its greenish or blueish?

Regards
paniolo

a0933e117b.jpg
 
Konicaman, thank you for the link to the adapter.

madNbad, there isnt any haze in the viewfinder that i can see, just the contrast is a bit dull, i've done the 'small black tape square' trick i read about on here and that has helped a bit, i may try a piece of coloured cellophane in the VF to see if that makes it any better. I will replace the light seals myself, an easy enough task 🙂 and as for the meter, is it possible to meter in 'auto' so i can get a rough idea and then switch to manual?

Paniolo, the viewfinder is the first one you have drawn, i can see the lens barrel, and as far as i can remember it does not block the framelines, but it is just visible, there is no coloured tint to the VF (is there supposed to be?) i will upload photos of the actually camera soon 🙂 thanks all for your help.
also.... the lens unit is ever so slightly loose, apparently you can remedy this by removing the leatherette and getting to a set of screws behind it?
 
Thank you pixel!

Can somebody compare the build quality with Canon LTM models`?
Looks like a Canonet QL19 is heavier than a Canon P with 50/1.8 = Same build quality and feel?
 
so i pulled the top plate off, gave the windows a clean etc and it is MUCH better, they didnt look dirty but wow, what a difference it made.
got curious so i pulled the bottom cover off as well to have a look, very tidy in there. while waiting for my battery i decided to rig up a battery with some wires to touch the negative coil, and the positive to the rear plate (or the bit that touches it) as i thought that would make the meter respond, accurate or not.
unfortunetly it didnt move, i tested the wire through the battery compartment, its making a circuit, then i checked the whole circuit and it gives me a reading as it there is a diode or something somewhere. but when i add power the meter does not move :-( any tips anyone? its such a shame, if i can get the meter working i have a lovely example of one of these cameras!
 
pixelvandal said:
so i pulled the top plate off, gave the windows a clean etc and it is MUCH better, they didnt look dirty but wow, what a difference it made.
got curious so i pulled the bottom cover off as well to have a look, very tidy in there. while waiting for my battery i decided to rig up a battery with some wires to touch the negative coil, and the positive to the rear plate (or the bit that touches it) as i thought that would make the meter respond, accurate or not.
unfortunetly it didnt move, i tested the wire through the battery compartment, its making a circuit, then i checked the whole circuit and it gives me a reading as it there is a diode or something somewhere. but when i add power the meter does not move :-( any tips anyone? its such a shame, if i can get the meter working i have a lovely example of one of these cameras!
Click to expand...

Was the aperture ring set in the "A" position? I know with my QL17 L the only time the needle will move is when the camera is set to "Auto". I had a feeling the rangefinder/viewfinder would be improved by a good cleaning. Forty or more years of outgassing and ambient dust leave a toll. Sounds like you're heading in the right direction.
 
pixelvandal said:
...i tested the wire through the battery compartment, its making a circuit, then i checked the whole circuit and it gives me a reading as it there is a diode or something somewhere. but when i add power the meter does not move :-( any tips anyone? its such a shame, if i can get the meter working i have a lovely example of one of these cameras!
Click to expand...

One common cause it the "rubber" stop bumber at the resting end of the meter needle's travel. If this little bugger starts to decompose it gets sticky and the needle becomes "trapped".

If this is the cause you can delicately dislodge the needle and then gingerly remove the bumper leaving a bare metal tab for the end stop.
 
it's alive! thank you everyone 🙂
it has some lens wobble still, but i pulled the lens assembly off to see if it was and exterior bolts that i could tighten, but it seems its within the unit itself, so i wasnt too game on pulling it apart. i can live with a little wobble 🙂
 
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