OT: vintage SLR advice

Like a lot of people here, I've run the gamut of top-end SLRs – in my case, from about 1975 until 2002, when I switched to rangefinders for most of my work. All of them (Canon, Minolta, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax, and even a scary brief experience with a Rollei SL2000F), had their strengths and weaknesses. The only SLR I have on hand now is a black Olympus OM2n which I use primarily for close-up work, but if possible, I'm going to replace it before long with the one SLR from my past that really makes sense to me, and might make sense for you, yet, oddly, hasn't been specifically mentioned by anyone here yet.

A Nikon F3.

Like its predecessors, the F3 has a rep for its bombproof contruction, 100% VF accuracy, a breathtaking selection of VF options and focusing screens, and can use most any F-mount lens Nikon (or anyone else for that matter) ever made, pre- or post-AI (or AF, for that matter). For not much cash, you can bolt on one of the best optional motor drives Nikon ever made. You can load it up for bear, or keep it zen simple (the latter being a better idea if you're on a budget). And since Nikon made tons of the things, you should be able to find one in user shape for not much more than that NIB Pentax K1000 someone mentioned before (the mighty K is damn good basic transportation, but clearly not in the same league).

Other advantages:

- Metering: in-body, and with a fast, sensitive and heavily center-weighted SPD cell (used for both ambient and flash metering). Possibly the best "simple" (non-fancy multi-pattern) in-camera metering setup I've used. And, when you attach the MD-4 motor, the drive's batteries also power the camera's electronics.

- Batteries: the F3 uses a pair of S76 silver oxide cells, widely available and non-esoteric.

- Backup mechanical shutter speed: yes, it's a tad odd to actuate (you use the concentric lever surrounding the stop-down button), but it's there when you need it. Thankfully, the F3 doesn't eat batteries alive.

- Parts/accessories availability. Since the F3 actually remained in Nikon's catalog (and even on their Web site) until only a year or two ago, it can be taken as read that you'll have little trouble finding replacement parts and accessories in many parts of the world for some time to come. Assuming the example you get is in decent shape, you probably won't have to worry much about anything breaking too soon (although, depending on how old it is, the LCD panel might start darkening, requiring replacement...that takes a while to happen, though).

- Size/weight: actually a liitle less on both counts than the F and F2, although it's by no means tiny or a lightweight. I think of it as "just right", but this is subjective.

- TTL flash: when you need to use flash, it's handy.

- Non-collectible status: Except for the somewhat-rare variations on this model (F3T/P/H and so on), this camera is in no danger of becoming a collector's darling any time in the near future. Too electronic, too common, too recent (I know, 1980 was eaons ago, but that's collecting for you). From a user's perspective, this is something to be thankful for.

Anybody got an F3 they'd like to trade for an OM-2n? 🙂


- Barrett

P.S. If you happen to be bespectacled like me, try and get a body with the high-eypoint finder, which offers better eye relief.
 
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Be carefull about what you buy. While there are a lot of good bargains available for classic cameras that have only been used for holiday and vacation photos for the last 25-30 years, there are many cameras that have been used to death or that have just reached the end of their usable life, some that look wonderful cosmetically. Unfortunately, the prices can be very close. It's just not worth having many of these classics repaired when you can buy a near mint example for less than the repair cost. It is worth it to buy from a reputable dealer who'll give you a 60 or 90 day warranty.

I've had several fully functional classic cameras die on me at the worst possible times. Enough times that my wife finally told me to go out and buy a new camera. (Yes, that amazed me too)

There are also a lot 10-15 year old top of the line or near top of the line cameras going for very low prices. While they may have AF and many other features, many can use older manual focus lenses. It's not hard to find a mint Nikon F100 for $350.00 or a N90s for $150.00 for example.
 
Guys, I can't thank you enough for all the help. I think I'm beginning to understand SLRs a little at last, they had always been a mystery to me before. It was a really close match, but I finally decided (I think) on an M42 system. One, because I liked the Fujicas for the size and (hopefully) price. And two, because Jay (ZorkiKat) took the time to let me visit for the afternoon today and his beautiful M42 lenses and bodies (not Fujicas) convinced me. And three, I like having more choices in the different brands of bodies in case whatever I get eventually breaks down in the future.

Thank you all.🙂 I hope I'll be able to pick a nice Fujica up for a good price, though they're a little scarce. Perhaps one day I will have enough money to try the others everyone has suggested, they all seem to have their own great points.
 
Cool! Thanks for following up and letting us know what you decided to do.

Kudos to Jay as well for giving you a chance to try before you buy. The Web allows us to read about LOTS of options, while at the same time Web commerce has driven a lot of small merchants out of business. Those same dealers were the ones to whom I used to go to try and buy such things. No less than a half dozen dealers of used cameras have shut over the past five years. Only one major source still exists and I suspect they can survive only because their stores are in small towns with low per square foot rates and they do profitable service work.

Let us know how you like what you get after you shoot with it for a while!

Cheers!/ScottGee1
 
Thanks for the warning. Unfortunately, Nikon is just way out of my budget, even the OMs are a little high for me at this point. My plan is to pick up a Fujica with a lens. That way, I'll at least be paying for decent lens, even if the body is not so hot. I like Jay's praktica/spotmatics, too, though they're a little big and from what I hear, have less bright VFs, so I can get another body later on. I recently picked up a meter from the evil place, so worse case, I can struggle through going completely manual.🙂
 
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I see, Spotmatics are great, I have used them for over 25 years and they keep working.
I also have a FUjica, light seals needed replacing but i haven;t yet fixed the lightmeter
screw mount lenses are great, even after all these years.

However, a Nikon FE/FM is a great SLR I own a FE and love that one too.
 
Kat...there's a Fujica for $89 in a display case in the one hour place in the mall around here in almost perfect condition. Comes with a 50mm lens. If you're interested I could go see about it for you...I can't remember the speed of the lens off the top of my head.
 
titrisol:

I just rehabbed my third Fujica ST-705 last night. The Fujica #05 series uses silver oxide batteries, not mercury batteries. They are very easy to find. All three of mine came with working meters. Even the #4 camera, the one I bought as a wreck for parts, has a working meter. Almost all of my 30+ M42 lenses work on these cameras even though only the dedicated Fujica mounts will meter at full aperture. The only exceptions are the East German (DDR) lenses from my Prakticas. For some reasons all of them have an auto-stop down pin that sticks out too far and thus never allows the lens to fully open up. The DDR lenses for the Electric Pentacons have an electrical contact that jams in the indexing slot on the ST-705. I think the Mamiya SX lenses also have a pin that interefers with the mount.

There is a website that is trying to catalog samples from the various M42 lenses.:

http://m42.povlab.org/member_gallery.php?mid=11

It will give you an idea of the range of lens choices and M42 user has access to.

-Paul
 
Ken Ford said:
I'd advise you to look at the OM series. I recently got back into them after a 25 year absence, and enjoy the heck out of them. Very "Leica-like" in their handling, and the optics are fantastic. The OM-1👎 and OM-2👎 viewfinders are a sight to behold. They're much quieter and lighter than my Nikons (I've been shooting F2s, F3s, an F4 and a FE since the '70s) or my old Pentaxes (I have a small collection of H2a bodies and SM Taks).

Most lenses are very reasonably priced - the well-regarded 50 f/1.8 is usually $20 or less, and I picked up two other great lenses - a 24 f/2.8 for street photography ($140 in great shape with case and hood) and the wonderfully tiny 135 f/3.5 ($50!). A clean OM-1n body is a good starting point, and will set you back around $100. Send it off to John Hermanson at Camtech for a $100 overhaul and battery conversion, and it'll be good to go for another 25 years.

I have two bodies - an OM-1n and a OM-2n, both in black. I usually dislike automatic bodies, but I have to tell you the OM-2n is proving to be both reliable and fun to shoot!

Kat,

I ahve to agree with Ken here. The OM system is a great one to own. Mine are 26 years old and still going strong.
 
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