defconfunk
n00b
MH - have you updated the firmware on your Olympus body? If the Panasonics aren't capturing the purple fringe but the olympus is, then it is because the Panasonics have a lens profile to correct it. If the Olympus E-M1 isn't picking the up the purple, then it has a lens profile as well. So if Olympus is still supporting your camera body with firmware updates, you should be okay.
No, it's current firmware. The problem is reported to be that Panasonic has stronger filter on sensor than Oly. As I said to Godfrey, I posted other people's example shots that also show the problem. Did you look at those? Do you think they're faked?
MH- you mistake my tone. I'm not suggesting that any thing is faked, or even that people are blowing a problem out of proportion. Simply that these issues are often solved with automatic processing in the camera (aka lens profiles). There have been a number of incompatibilities between Panasonic and Olympus bodies and lenses over the years, and it has usually been a software issue. If the later Olympus cameras weren't experiencing the problem (as Godfrey said at the time of my post, his E-M1 wasn't), then Olympus has probably figured out a lens profile for the Panny 14mm, and hopefully a firmware update on your camera body would solve the issue.
amalric
Member
issue might be overblown
issue might be overblown
Because I shoot Jpeg with an E-PM1 and 14/2.5, and CA happened only once in 2 years.
I subscribe entirely what Traveler 101 said. It's a great combo, because of how fast it is in the Street. No need of hyperfocal or stop focus, although it is entirely possible.
14/2.5, is a great little lens since it's Leica Sharp, and fully pocketable. In addition the body is stabilised, so I leave all on Auto and concentrate on my subjects. E-PM2 should have one stop DR more, and 4 Mpx more, now a good buy.
Visit my new blog:
'Photo & Poetry'
http://amalric2014.blogspot.it/
issue might be overblown
Because I shoot Jpeg with an E-PM1 and 14/2.5, and CA happened only once in 2 years.
I subscribe entirely what Traveler 101 said. It's a great combo, because of how fast it is in the Street. No need of hyperfocal or stop focus, although it is entirely possible.
14/2.5, is a great little lens since it's Leica Sharp, and fully pocketable. In addition the body is stabilised, so I leave all on Auto and concentrate on my subjects. E-PM2 should have one stop DR more, and 4 Mpx more, now a good buy.
Visit my new blog:
'Photo & Poetry'
http://amalric2014.blogspot.it/
mh2000
Well-known
MH- you mistake my tone. I'm not suggesting that any thing is faked, or even that people are blowing a problem out of proportion. Simply that these issues are often solved with automatic processing in the camera (aka lens profiles). There have been a number of incompatibilities between Panasonic and Olympus bodies and lenses over the years, and it has usually been a software issue. If the later Olympus cameras weren't experiencing the problem (as Godfrey said at the time of my post, his E-M1 wasn't), then Olympus has probably figured out a lens profile for the Panny 14mm, and hopefully a firmware update on your camera body would solve the issue.
That is great news. I only know my experience with my E-P1 and what people post from later cameras. As I said, updating LR looks like it more or less fixed the problem for me... and I am of the mind that in the digital age, software fixes are fixes!
Wasn't trying to piss on the lens, just putting something out there that I fought with until I got the newest LR.
Uggg... and part of why I was dragging my feet on the upgrade is that my Monaco XR calibration puck won't work with Windows 7 so I have to buy a new one... hate when something that works fine is just obsoleted for no reason and I have to upgrade to upgrade.
Best!
mh2000
Well-known
Mark, I don't use lightroom; in fact I just started shooting raw. What I read from an "expert" was that he recommends processing all raw shots in Olympus Viewer and saving as Tiff files, which are large enough to give you sufficient "headroom" for additional alteration. Then you retouch with LR.Perhaps i can find the link if you are interested.
Since the new LR has fixed the problem with the lens I'm just sticking with it. The reason most people I know use the Oly viewer is because it is the easiest way to get "Oly colors." I'm happy with my raw conversions and the general LR workflow. Converting everything to tiffs will make huge files and you'll want to hang onto your original raw files as well.
Thanks!
traveler_101
American abroad
Since the new LR has fixed the problem with the lens I'm just sticking with it. The reason most people I know use the Oly viewer is because it is the easiest way to get "Oly colors." I'm happy with my raw conversions and the general LR workflow. Converting everything to tiffs will make huge files and you'll want to hang onto your original raw files as well.
Thanks!
Sure, ok. I just didn't want you to think I was busting your chops about the P-14. About using the Olympus Viewer program: I think the idea is to get the benefits of Olympus's processing engine by producing TIFF files, and then reprocess them making final adjustments with LR to arrive at .jpgs. The TIFF files are just an intermediate stage. But if you are happy with what you've got there's no need!
SixtiesM2
Rio's pal
If you want to replicate your M4-2 and 28mm CV kit, and your mode of operation (hyper focal/zone focus) I'd get the Ricoh GR. The "snap focus" feature is just what you need. I also am led to believe that the autofocus is fast on the GR, though probably not quite as fast as the latest generation of Olympus m4/3.
I've had the Panasonic 14mm f2.5, and found the lack of a way to set a "zone" focus frustrating. The focus by wire is no fun, either. There are ways to do this, but they are cumbersome. (On oly m4/3: Assign focus to a dedicated button, remove AF from the shutter button. Then: every time you power on the camera, use the dedicated focus button to focus on a "hyperfocal" distance object. Then fire away)
I liked the 14/f2.5, but found that I seldom used it, as I tend to the 20mm/f1.7 for most things. I recently sold the 28mm.
There is noticeable fringing with the 14mm/f2.5, one only needs to look at tree branches on an open sky, or the margins between a dark object and a light one. Later versions of Lightroom can remove it, and a strong UV filter can reportedly minimize, as well.
I'd recommend going to the dpreview forums and checking out the Ricoh and Micro Four Thirds forums to research both what people say about the GR and the 14/f2.5. You will see lots of comments about fringing and how to deal with it.
The GR has been "on my list" for a while, but would be more appealing for me if the native focal length was 35mm, instead of 28. There is a 35mm "crop" mode, though, so they may still get my money.
For an M4-2 28mm shooter, though, the GR sounds ideal.
I've had the Panasonic 14mm f2.5, and found the lack of a way to set a "zone" focus frustrating. The focus by wire is no fun, either. There are ways to do this, but they are cumbersome. (On oly m4/3: Assign focus to a dedicated button, remove AF from the shutter button. Then: every time you power on the camera, use the dedicated focus button to focus on a "hyperfocal" distance object. Then fire away)
I liked the 14/f2.5, but found that I seldom used it, as I tend to the 20mm/f1.7 for most things. I recently sold the 28mm.
There is noticeable fringing with the 14mm/f2.5, one only needs to look at tree branches on an open sky, or the margins between a dark object and a light one. Later versions of Lightroom can remove it, and a strong UV filter can reportedly minimize, as well.
I'd recommend going to the dpreview forums and checking out the Ricoh and Micro Four Thirds forums to research both what people say about the GR and the 14/f2.5. You will see lots of comments about fringing and how to deal with it.
The GR has been "on my list" for a while, but would be more appealing for me if the native focal length was 35mm, instead of 28. There is a 35mm "crop" mode, though, so they may still get my money.
For an M4-2 28mm shooter, though, the GR sounds ideal.
itf
itchy trigger finger
Since I last posted I've had a chance to try out a few different cameras in the shops. The epm2 is fast for sure, I haven't been to a shop that had the Panasonic 14/2.5 so I couldn't try it with that. I was put off the Olympus by the reported issues regarding fringing etc with the Panasonic lens.
I also found out about the Panasonic GM1, so I've had a look at that too. Should be more compatible with the 14/2.5 re fringing, but I guess it's all just software repair, sooo. Anyway, it's tiny and fast with the kit lens. Strangely, they seem to have made it as thin as they possibly could, but the lens flange protrudes out the front of it (to get the correct distance off the focal plane I guess) so with the lens on it it's still pretty deep. Could've done with a little more to hold on to. No shoe to put my finder in, but a spare shoe and some glue would fix that. Pretty interested to see what updates come for this camera. Apparently there's a Panasonic/Leica 15/1.7 coming! Better optics I guess, and surely a more traditional lens with some sort of proper manual focus ring so it can be zone focused. Not there for me yet though.
The Ricoh was really nice, I think I knew this is what I wanted. AF is good unless it's low-contrast. Then there's snap focus too...
Still wondering about other, potentially more versatile options (fuji, sony, etc), but it seems it would mean giving up on the pocket thing.
I also found out about the Panasonic GM1, so I've had a look at that too. Should be more compatible with the 14/2.5 re fringing, but I guess it's all just software repair, sooo. Anyway, it's tiny and fast with the kit lens. Strangely, they seem to have made it as thin as they possibly could, but the lens flange protrudes out the front of it (to get the correct distance off the focal plane I guess) so with the lens on it it's still pretty deep. Could've done with a little more to hold on to. No shoe to put my finder in, but a spare shoe and some glue would fix that. Pretty interested to see what updates come for this camera. Apparently there's a Panasonic/Leica 15/1.7 coming! Better optics I guess, and surely a more traditional lens with some sort of proper manual focus ring so it can be zone focused. Not there for me yet though.
The Ricoh was really nice, I think I knew this is what I wanted. AF is good unless it's low-contrast. Then there's snap focus too...
Still wondering about other, potentially more versatile options (fuji, sony, etc), but it seems it would mean giving up on the pocket thing.
Lss
Well-known
True.The Pany 14 feels like a toy with zero feedback for manual focusing.
That lens is however the only thing I miss from my MFT gear that is now gone.
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