Brennotdan
Established
I would like to start a discussion on parallax correction. I will share my experience with the koni omega and how I deal with framing parallax error at close distance.
I use the rapid 100 at close distances quite often, usually on a tripod. The viewfinder has automatic correction which makes it difficult to be precise when shooting in close. The top and left hand side of the frame contract to (semi)correct for viewfinder/lens distance. I imaging the entire frame contracting (angle of view), frame and then move the camera up and slightly to the left. At distances over 6 feet, I just believe what the viewfinder tells me.
With the 58mm lens, the frame has been significantly lower then what I intend, even at distances up to 10 feet, often including things I don't want in the frame. The separate lines in the shoe-mount viewfinder confuse me when trying to correct, and I try to ignore the lower line at close distances. I use the entire frame, imagine it contracting for angle of view, and then move the camera up the distance between lens and viewfinder. For verticals I also move the tripod over a bit.
Lately my framing has been close, but I still end up thinking and cropping way more than I would like.
What is your working method/mental routine when framing at close distance?
Closer to what I intended:
A side note: I absolutely love these Konica lenses.
I use the rapid 100 at close distances quite often, usually on a tripod. The viewfinder has automatic correction which makes it difficult to be precise when shooting in close. The top and left hand side of the frame contract to (semi)correct for viewfinder/lens distance. I imaging the entire frame contracting (angle of view), frame and then move the camera up and slightly to the left. At distances over 6 feet, I just believe what the viewfinder tells me.
With the 58mm lens, the frame has been significantly lower then what I intend, even at distances up to 10 feet, often including things I don't want in the frame. The separate lines in the shoe-mount viewfinder confuse me when trying to correct, and I try to ignore the lower line at close distances. I use the entire frame, imagine it contracting for angle of view, and then move the camera up the distance between lens and viewfinder. For verticals I also move the tripod over a bit.
Lately my framing has been close, but I still end up thinking and cropping way more than I would like.
What is your working method/mental routine when framing at close distance?
Closer to what I intended:
A side note: I absolutely love these Konica lenses.
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Brennotdan
Established
Seriously though guys hah....I admit after this post I started browsing keh for MF SLRs.
IK13
Established
I'm pretty happy with the framing accuracy I'm getting with the 90mm.
Now - IMO - there's no rangefinder really suitable for close ups (out of the box), but Koni/Rapid Omega and the 35mm Konica S series do get the automatic correction, which makes them better than most RF in that regard.
The 58mm/60mm is intended to be used with the external viewfinder. Is this how you are using it?
Now - IMO - there's no rangefinder really suitable for close ups (out of the box), but Koni/Rapid Omega and the 35mm Konica S series do get the automatic correction, which makes them better than most RF in that regard.
The 58mm/60mm is intended to be used with the external viewfinder. Is this how you are using it?
Brennotdan
Established
I know this has been discussed forever, rangefinders are just bad for close ups. But sometimes you're poor and it's all you have for MF. I love the viewfinder in my s2, huge, bright, clear and parallax correcting.
The shoe mount viewfinder I was referring to is the 58mm. The lower top line is kind of funny, I mean by the time you get that close to something you're kind of dorked anyway, so I use the full viewfinder, imagine it contracting and then move the camera. It does in fact focus closer than the rangefinder will gauge.
The 90 does seem pretty accurate, and 58 I am still getting used to...been drawing what is in the frame and comparing when I get the film back.
The shoe mount viewfinder I was referring to is the 58mm. The lower top line is kind of funny, I mean by the time you get that close to something you're kind of dorked anyway, so I use the full viewfinder, imagine it contracting and then move the camera. It does in fact focus closer than the rangefinder will gauge.
The 90 does seem pretty accurate, and 58 I am still getting used to...been drawing what is in the frame and comparing when I get the film back.
HSI
The Fourth
I'm getting killed by forgetting to frame on the outside of the frame lines when shooting at infinity and beyond, close up is no problem for me actually.