rbsinto
Well-known
I just got a PC Nikkor 35mm 3.5 lens for a very good price and am now looking for the user's manual.
Does anyone know of a site or source where I could download the manual from?
Please and thank you.
Robert
Does anyone know of a site or source where I could download the manual from?
Please and thank you.
Robert
madNbad
Well-known
rbsinto
Well-known
Thanks.
But mine is the earlier 35 f3.5 and I've been unable to determine what the differences are between the two.
I'm really hoping to find the manual for the original, older lens.
Robert
Dwig
Well-known
There's more info at http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/PC_Nikkor/index1.htm
The original f/3.5 lens functioned very similarly to the later f/2.8 lens. The newer f/2.8 does have improved optics and is mounted so that the shifting portion of the barrel is further from the lens mount. This allows it to shift upwards even when a Photomic metered finder is mounted. The f/3.5 is very limited in movements unless used with a non-metered prism or WL finder.
The original f/3.5 lens functioned very similarly to the later f/2.8 lens. The newer f/2.8 does have improved optics and is mounted so that the shifting portion of the barrel is further from the lens mount. This allows it to shift upwards even when a Photomic metered finder is mounted. The f/3.5 is very limited in movements unless used with a non-metered prism or WL finder.
maryland_fotos
Well-known
I dont have the original 35 3.5 version, but the early 35 2.8, a 28 3.5 and the 28 f4 PC lenses. The shift and rotation movements are very similar in each of them and I imagine the 35 3.5 is not going to be different in that respect. So other than the issue with the large metered finders mentioned by Dwig, you should be good. With perspective control lenses and film, I prefer using an external light meter anyway. Of course another option, if feasible, is the Df.
rbsinto
Well-known
I have both an F and F2 with a meterless eyelevel prism and DE-1 prism respectively that will work very well.
Thanks all, for the help.
Robert
Thanks all, for the help.
Robert
Robert Lai
Well-known
I have the 28mm PC lens. The main issues concern metering.
For most cameras EXCEPT the F3, you need to meter UNSHIFTED. Then shift after you've preset the aperture and shutter speed.
After focusing, prior to firing the shutter, don't forget to close down the aperture blades (to the preset that you set earlier).
The F3 is unique in that it's metering design allows you to meter accurately, even with the lens shifted. You do have to stop the aperture down to the working stop in order to take a meter reading.
For most cameras EXCEPT the F3, you need to meter UNSHIFTED. Then shift after you've preset the aperture and shutter speed.
After focusing, prior to firing the shutter, don't forget to close down the aperture blades (to the preset that you set earlier).
The F3 is unique in that it's metering design allows you to meter accurately, even with the lens shifted. You do have to stop the aperture down to the working stop in order to take a meter reading.
rbsinto
Well-known
I have the 28mm PC lens. The main issues concern metering.
For most cameras EXCEPT the F3, you need to meter UNSHIFTED. Then shift after you've preset the aperture and shutter speed.
After focusing, prior to firing the shutter, don't forget to close down the aperture blades (to the preset that you set earlier).
The F3 is unique in that it's metering design allows you to meter accurately, even with the lens shifted. You do have to stop the aperture down to the working stop in order to take a meter reading.
Robert,
Thank you for this information.
I have two F3s: an F3P that is incompatible with it, and an F3 with a non-HP finder that accepts it without a problem, so I'm good to go, to fool with this lens.
Robert
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