Pentax 67 Gas!

[FujiLove]

Thank you for the kind words, ASA 32 and charjohncarter. The S-M-C lenses really are incredible, especially for the bottom dollar price you can get them for these days.

I agree - great photos 🙂

Over the last few weeks I've picked up a second P67 body, 55mm f4 lens, waist level finder and a wooden grip. Such a brilliant kit.

 

[agricola]

Onya Colton! and loved your Flickr

Dan

 

[charjohncarter]

dourbalistar inspired me to put up another. I thought something was wrong with my 6x7 so I quickly ran a roll of Arista EDU ultra 400 through to see what was up. It was only I needed a new battery. But some of the shots were so boring but so clean and crisp I quickly loaded some Porta. Here is an Arista EDU ultra 400 grab shot:

Arista EDU ultra 400 HC110h by John Carter, on Flickr

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 90mm f/2.8 LS, Ilford HP5+ at E.I. 200, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:63 for 8:48.


2018.06.22 Roll #165-02514-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 90mm f/2.8 LS, Kodak 400TX, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 6 minutes.


2018.07.07 Roll #172-02784-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 105mm f/2.4, Kodak 400TX, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 6 minutes.


2018.09.08 Roll #179-02839-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 90mm f/2.8 LS, Ultrafine Xtreme 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.


2018.09.01 Roll #178-02822-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[regular]

Nice pictures, but they are missing a bit more of midtones (maybe a problem of gamma).
I would use the curve tool to bow the gamma down.

 

[dourbalistar]

Nice pictures, but they are missing a bit more of midtones (maybe a problem of gamma).
I would use the curve tool to bow the gamma down.

Thanks for the comment and feedback, though I'm not quite sure what you mean by gamma. Would you suggest just grabbing the tone curve somewhere in the middle, and pulling it down a bit (in Lightroom)?

It may be personal preference, but I try to use a very light hand when post processing. My tone curve is pretty much linear, with only the ends pulled in to set the black and white points.

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 90mm f/2.8 LS, Ilford HP5+, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.


2018.06.14 Roll #163-02467-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[regular]

Thanks for the comment and feedback, though I'm not quite sure what you mean by gamma. Would you suggest just grabbing the tone curve somewhere in the middle, and pulling it down a bit (in Lightroom)?

Yes.

It may be personal preference, but I try to use a very light hand when post processing. My tone curve is pretty much linear, with only the ends pulled in to set the black and white points.

Me too, but if I look at the tones, i get the feeling that there are lacking shadows, and are over-exposed a bit.
Or a problem of gamma (Apple is using (or was?) a gamma value of 1.8, while rest of the world was using 2.2)

If I ignore the black frame, the histogram of your latest photo is like this - shifted to the right a bit :


With each photo I tried, it seems this kind of settings would make skin tones or grass tones more natural.

For example, this photo was looking too bright - only when changing curve did I realize that this photo is a evening shot! (correct? is not this spotlights on the house front?)

 

[dourbalistar]

Me too, but if I look at the tones, i get the feeling that there are lacking shadows, and are over-exposed a bit. With each photo I tried, it seems this kind of settings would make skin tones or grass tones more natural.

For example, this photo was looking too bright - only when changing curve did I realize that this photo is a evening shot! (correct? is not this spotlights on the house front?)

Thank you for the detailed response! Yes, the photo was indeed taken in the evening, around 6pm. I usually over-expose by one stop, since I like open shadows, but yes I may have over-cooked the example you used a bit. 😱

I went back and re-edited the photo, but didn't pull the tone curve nearly as far down as you did. Of course style and preference is personal, but I appreciate the feedback, and will definitely take it into consideration.

 

[PhotoGog]

Finally got round to developing some rolls of Acros with Rodinal from back in May. Pentax 67 with 200/4. Boomerang Beach, New South Wales, Australia. Basic scan using the new FilmLab app for
iOS.

 

[leicapixie]

Great images here.
The SLR that i hated as much as My EOS system..
The Pentax is a formidable camera with super lenses and a flat film direction..
The sea scene intriguing, that with Rodinal and my use of HC-110.
i "kinda see" color!. (BW film).
I wonder who else has noted this?
Maybe film companies are using dye technology to save silver?

 

[PhotoGog]

I think the slight blue tint is simply from the LED pad light and how the iPhone camera captured it. Acros is definitely black!

 

[charjohncarter]

Yes.

Me too, but if I look at the tones, i get the feeling that there are lacking shadows, and are over-exposed a bit.
Or a problem of gamma (Apple is using (or was?) a gamma value of 1.8, while rest of the world was using 2.2)

If I ignore the black frame, the histogram of your latest photo is like this - shifted to the right a bit :


With each photo I tried, it seems this kind of settings would make skin tones or grass tones more natural.

For example, this photo was looking too bright - only when changing curve did I realize that this photo is a evening shot! (correct? is not this spotlights on the house front?)

regular, nice write up, very helpful.

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 90mm f/2.8 LS, Ultrafine Xtreme 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.


2018.09.01 Roll #178-02819-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[dourbalistar]

Pentax 6x7, S-M-C Takumar 6x7 55m f/3.5, Kodak 400TX, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 6 minutes.


2018.05.30 Roll #159-02274-Pano-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr

 

[Abbazz]

Quick question for you guys. I have two, each with a meter prism. On one prism, the needle is up when off. The other one has it's needle down when off... Is this normal? Where is your meter needle when off?

Hi Gil -- I also have two... The older one (mid-1970s) that says "Honeywell" on the nameplate is up when off. The newer one that says "Pentax" on the nameplate is down when off.

Also, there's a difference in the meter on/off switches... The older one is a two-position switch where one position is off and the other is on. The newer one has a momentary-contact switch that is spring-loaded to rest in the center position, and moving it briefly one way switches on, and similarly the other way switches off.

Sorry for answering an old post, but I thought my answer might be useful to the community.

While there has never been any communication from Pentax about it, there are in fact two different TTL prism finders (not including the 67ii finder, which is a different beast altogether. ):

- The original model features a CdS photoresistor. Its needle is up (+) when the meter is off. It's easy to identify from the outside because it has a switch with two distinct positions labeled on the body: ON and OFF:

- Launched in 1982, the newer model features a GaAsP photodiode, which offers better accuracy and shorter response time than the CdS photoresistor. The printed circuit board is also improved (one glass-epoxy PCB with integrated circuits vs. two cotton paper / phenolic resin boards with discrete transistors) and the power consumption is down from 4.5mA to 1mA. Its needle is down (-) when the meter is off. From the outside, the switch has only one labeled position: ON:

Here's a picture of both TTL prism finders side by side with the cover removed (newer model is on the left):

Credit: Gabrielcik @ Pentaxforums

For those reading French, here is the link to a very thorough Pentax 6x7 technical review originally published in 1983 by Phot'Argus Magazine: http://www.galerie-photo.com/manuels/pentax-etude.pdf

Cheers!

Abbazz

[EDIT] it seems I mixed up the pictures of both models. The meter with the GaAsP photodiode appears to be the one with the switch labeled "ON / OFF," while the one with the CdS photoresistor has only "ON."

 

[dourbalistar]

Thanks for the detailed info, Abbazz! Seems I have the older CdS prism. Anyone have any tips for remembering to turn the meter off? I've forgotten a few times, only to discover a dead battery later. :bang:

Sorry for answering an old post, but I thought my answer might be useful to the community.

While there has never been any communication from Pentax about it, there are in fact two different TTL prism finders (not including the 67ii finder, which is a different beast altogether. ):

- The original model features a CdS photoresistor. Its needle is up (+) when the meter is off. It's easy to identify from the outside because it has a switch with two distinct positions labeled on the body: ON and OFF:

- Launched in 1982, the newer model features a GaAsP photodiode, which offers better accuracy and shorter response time than the CdS photoresistor. The printed circuit board is also improved (one glass-epoxy PCB with integrated circuits vs. two cotton paper / phenolic resin boards with discrete transistors) and the power consumption is down from 4.5mA to 1mA. Its needle is down (-) when the meter is off. From the outside, the switch has only one labeled position: ON:

Cheers!
Abbazz