Petri 7s lens

koniczech

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Hi all,

I just got my new Petri 7s from ebay ($25 with case+original manual in amazing condition).

My question for any other Petri users out there is: Does anyone have a hard time using the controls on the lens? It seems like everything was packed onto the tiny thing. I just finished a quick 12-shot $.99 roll to test, but my first impression was that it might get tough changing the shutter speed and aperture and focusing, since all the options are almost directly adjacent to each other.

Also, is there an easy way to keep the ISO from changing while adjusting the shutter speed? I kept finding my ISO at 400, while I had previously set it to 200.

Thanks,

koniczech
 
Can not agree. Lens barrel on 7s is large, controls too, and placed with good distance between them. 35RC, 500GX - this I'd call as having tightly packed controls as lens barrels are small.

Aperture ring on mine after cleaning is so fluent that I have to watch it - moves easily as it doesn't has click stops, Lynx 14 does same way.

ISO shouldn't change while changing speeds....just like many other cameras are designed.

P.S. which lens your 7s has - 2.8 or 1.8?
 
Mine is a 1.8.

I think the whole operation of the camera is really slick, as you mentioned. Rather than clicking between apertures, like on my Yashica GNS, it just rolls nicely. My problem might be that I have big hands and have a hard time finding where to grip the barrels of each control.
 
Uh, I realize. In this respect I like Konica Auto S where speed ring is little elevated over aperture ring like on Konica III, very handy. Note, on later KAS2 this wonderful solution is dropped and both aperture and speed rings are on same level.
 
Hi all,

I just got my new Petri 7s from ebay ($25 with case+original manual in amazing condition).

My question for any other Petri users out there is: Does anyone have a hard time using the controls on the lens? It seems like everything was packed onto the tiny thing. I just finished a quick 12-shot $.99 roll to test, but my first impression was that it might get tough changing the shutter speed and aperture and focusing, since all the options are almost directly adjacent to each other.

Also, is there an easy way to keep the ISO from changing while adjusting the shutter speed? I kept finding my ISO at 400, while I had previously set it to 200.

Thanks,

koniczech

I haven't had the ISO problem, I guess my ISO ring is stiff enough. But I think the nicest thing about exposure with this camera is the top meter. I usally use it, then focus. No ring fumbling that way, if you think this one is bad try the Olympus 35RC. I do use this camera a lot so maybe I'm used to it. I do use the viewfinder meter about 30% of the time. One of the really great thing with this camera for me is the leaf shutter. I can use my flashes at any speed, and I have a Vivitar MacroFlash 5000 that I can mount on the 52 mm filter size lens.
 
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Mine is a 1.8.

I think the whole operation of the camera is really slick, as you mentioned. Rather than clicking between apertures, like on my Yashica GNS, it just rolls nicely. My problem might be that I have big hands and have a hard time finding where to grip the barrels of each control.

Mine is the 2.8 but on my camera the ISO ring is connected to the shutter speed ring. The detentes on the shutter are fine but I don't think the aperture ring has any. It just moves, kind of an early semi-aperture priority camera.
 
What I have been noticing recently (and the other people that have used it have noticed this more) is that the focusing box for rangefinding is extremely dim when there isn't direct sunlight on the subject. I can see the composition lines and meter in the viewfinder perfectly, but the focus-box is just about invisible most of the time.

Does anyone else get this?

Thanks

koniczech
 
Do you mean rangefinder patch of Petri 7s? I feel the same - while viewfinder is nice and kind of contrasty, RF patch is very dim, that'w what makes me choosing another cameras. It's a pity because I like lens and smoothness of shutter release.
 
Do you mean rangefinder patch of Petri 7s? I feel the same - while viewfinder is nice and kind of contrasty, RF patch is very dim, that'w what makes me choosing another cameras. It's a pity because I like lens and smoothness of shutter release.

Try this, notice the blue tape on the viewfinder window:

1617570848_7628fd268b.jpg
 
Thanks for the tip, but this only helps when you are focusing on objects that continue past the focus-spot, right?

koniczech
 
I'll try this out! It's gotten to the point where I spend too much time trying to find the out-of-focus silhouette.

koniczech
 
Underappreciated camera?

Underappreciated camera?

I've bumped the iso lever out of the way numerous times. I'm slowly training myself not to do that. I don't find myself having that problem as much with other cameras, but maybe I have on the rc and I can't recall. It wouldn't be so bad but I'm using a couple of different films and can forget... No telling what I'll end up with. :-(

My 7s rf patch isn't so great either, but it works well enough, I suppose. I like the idea of using temporary blue tape. I've seen people use permanent marker, and that seems stupid -- no going back!

Yeah, I like the smoothaction, nice shutter, until you wind it and KLUNK! Oh well, nothing's perfect. It also seems a bit too big compared to later cameras, but I guess it's about the same as the other 60's fixed rfs.

What is special about it's leaf shutter? Seems similar to many cameras.

The lens seems really good. Bokeh especially. I need to use mine more as it's being neglected. Now if I could just recall what iso I had in there! Auuugh.
 
What is special about it's leaf shutter? Seems similar to many cameras.

Nothing is special about it, it just has one. Most SLRs and removable lens RF cameras have focal plane shutters which are worthless for flash outside (especially if you are using a small flash). The RC also has the leaf shutter and it also is great for fill flash or even sun sync (both sync to 1/500).
 
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