strangerbeat
Member
Best $1 I've ever spent! This camera is so fun to play with. It's quite frustrating to screw up some shots though. I'm very new to pack film and have wasted quite a few shots by messing up on pulling the film out, accidentally pulling out more than I should, or underexposure problems. :bang:
Hopefully I get more used to the system and start cranking out some gems!
Here are some test shots
Hopefully I get more used to the system and start cranking out some gems!
Here are some test shots






imokruok
Well-known
Great shots! 2&3 are my favs. Those old Polaroid land cameras are a steal. I think people who sell them think the film isn't available anymore...
denmark.yuzon
Streetographer
Great shots! I love the second pic!
patois
Established
Nice. Polaroid pack feel cameras a lot of fun. 3 is great.
nightfly
Well-known
Which Polaroids does the new film they just started making fit? The Impossible project stuff. The whole models and films with Polaroids is really confusing to me for some reason.
The "Impossible Project" has brought back film for the "Integral Film" type cameras, the SX-70 and 600 Series cameras. Not to be confused with "Pack Film" cameras that use peel-apart film, which is still manufactured by Fuji.
SO: If the camera Spits the print out, "Impossible Project".
If you Pull the film out using the tabs, use Fuji film.
For using Fuji Film: the 100 series and 200 series cameras are "best". I've read that the development timers can interfere with the Fuji Film pack.
SO: If the camera Spits the print out, "Impossible Project".
If you Pull the film out using the tabs, use Fuji film.
For using Fuji Film: the 100 series and 200 series cameras are "best". I've read that the development timers can interfere with the Fuji Film pack.
nightfly
Well-known
Thanks for clearing that up. What type of film was the above ^^^ shot on.
Great shots. I love 2 and 3.
Great shots. I love 2 and 3.
If the above shots were done with Polaroid film, which can still be bought:
Type 107 or type 667, which I still have a few packs of in the refrigerator.
I have not used it myself, but Fujifilm FP-100 and FP-3000 will work in the model 240 and other "pack Film" cameras, and are black and white instant print film. I should order some for work. I love my Tek O-Scope camera.
Type 107 or type 667, which I still have a few packs of in the refrigerator.
I have not used it myself, but Fujifilm FP-100 and FP-3000 will work in the model 240 and other "pack Film" cameras, and are black and white instant print film. I should order some for work. I love my Tek O-Scope camera.
imokruok
Well-known
For using Fuji Film: the 100 series and 200 series cameras are "best". I've read that the development timers can interfere with the Fuji Film pack.
I've read that as well, but think that it may only apply to the electronic timers. The manual crank timer on my 330 doesn't interfere - FP-100C is no problem.
strangerbeat
Member
thanks guys! will definitely be posting more as they come.
as for what film can be used, shot 1 was Fuji FP-100B and the rest were FP-3000B
i have A LOT of FP-100C on standby waiting to be used once my 3000B runs out, so stay tuned!
as for what film can be used, shot 1 was Fuji FP-100B and the rest were FP-3000B
i have A LOT of FP-100C on standby waiting to be used once my 3000B runs out, so stay tuned!
strangerbeat
Member
oh! also... anyone have tips on shooting low light with 3000B?
ive been coming up with some extremely underdeveloped shots using the proper settings for indoor low light.
seems the meter only exposes until the lightest part of the photo is well exposed and completely ignores the rest of the scene. it exposes perfectly in daylight though, so i dont think it's a meter problem.
i'm thinking i'm SOL unless my subject has light directly on it?
a prime example is the last photo i posted with the book. it exposed the book just fine, but what the background actually was was a grey, textured carpet with my shoes showing along the bottom of the book. didnt turn out the way i expected it to with the completely black background.
ive been coming up with some extremely underdeveloped shots using the proper settings for indoor low light.
seems the meter only exposes until the lightest part of the photo is well exposed and completely ignores the rest of the scene. it exposes perfectly in daylight though, so i dont think it's a meter problem.
i'm thinking i'm SOL unless my subject has light directly on it?
a prime example is the last photo i posted with the book. it exposed the book just fine, but what the background actually was was a grey, textured carpet with my shoes showing along the bottom of the book. didnt turn out the way i expected it to with the completely black background.
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
use a handheld meter, works great! here's a few from both Fuji 3000b and 100c -b using a polo 110B and handhekd metering.
3000b
100c
Todd
3000b


100c


Todd
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Some really good photos there. The first one is great.
strangerbeat
Member
using a handheld meter? i have one, but what does it do for an automatic 240? i cant set aperture or shutter speed or anything. am i missing something?
really great shots btw
really great shots btw
strangerbeat
Member
so i decided to experiment and after wasting at least 3 shots (
) i found that if i set the ISO to 300 and set the dial to max darken, it FINALLY gave me a well exposed low light photo!
so weird. now i dont know whether i should just stick with that setting, because ISO 3000 in daylight gives me well exposed shots already. dont know if i'm guaranteed the same results at 300 though. unless of course, i risk wasting yet another shot :\
so weird. now i dont know whether i should just stick with that setting, because ISO 3000 in daylight gives me well exposed shots already. dont know if i'm guaranteed the same results at 300 though. unless of course, i risk wasting yet another shot :\
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