david.elliott
Well-known
Agreed as well. We are on the same page. Didn't mean to mislead as to the %. Different manufacturers use a different % standard.
Again, agreed. Gotta use our brains in conjunction with meter readings.
furcafe
Veteran
If you can fit the Sekonic L-358 in your shirt pocket, then yes, your shirt pockets are certainly bigger than mine. Then again, the OP wrote that he occasionally uses a Gossen Luna Pro, which I think is even bigger than the L-358, so maybe he has big pockets, too.
I was also thinking more along the lines of dedicated spot meters, like the Pentax, w/their "Star Trek" phaser-like shape & size.
I was also thinking more along the lines of dedicated spot meters, like the Pentax, w/their "Star Trek" phaser-like shape & size.
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delft
Established
I read this as Kokak saying: "You don't have to correct incident-meter readings and fotunately, for many scenes neither do you have to adjust reflected-meter readings. Only for extreme cases do you need to adjust your reflected-meter readings". According to this interpretation, Kodak doesn't agree with you.
Greetings,
Dirk
david.elliott
Well-known
You're reading it wrong.
see --
"However, if the main subject is very light or very dark, and you want to record detail in this area, you must modify the meter's exposure recommendations as follows:
For light subjects, decrease exposure by 1/2 to 1 stop from the meter reading.
For dark subjects, increase exposure by 1/2 to 1 stop from the meter reading.
You will notice that these adjustments are just the opposite from those required for a reflected-light meter. An incident meter does not work well when photographing light sources because it cannot meter light directly. In such situations you will be better off using a reflected-light meter or an exposure table."
You need to adjust both incident readings and reflected readings.
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Landshark
Well-known
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Whole books have been written on exposure, including Perfect Exposure (David & Charles/Amphoto, 1999). Two enduring myths are that exposures are keyed to 18% gray (they aren't) and that the same exposure determination methods can be used for slide/digital and negative (only true if the tonal range is quite short). There are several modules about it on my site, including:
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo neg.html (exposing negs)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo slide.html (exposing slides and digital)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps 18 per cent.html (gray cards)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps zone.html (the fact that the Zone System is a simplification of sensitometry, not its basis).
There are plenty who know more about sensitometry and exposure than I, but very few of those who actually understand either subject have found a great deal to argue about in the above modules.
Cheers,
R.
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo neg.html (exposing negs)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo slide.html (exposing slides and digital)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps 18 per cent.html (gray cards)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps zone.html (the fact that the Zone System is a simplification of sensitometry, not its basis).
There are plenty who know more about sensitometry and exposure than I, but very few of those who actually understand either subject have found a great deal to argue about in the above modules.
Cheers,
R.
arthur sadowsky
Established
I use my Sekonic L-358 religiously as well. Always for incident readings. For reflective readings I use Gossen Digisix (which is a fine tool as long as you know it's limitations).
Could you provide any exemplars (link is fine!) of your film work using L-358 w/1 degree attachment with indication/comment what part/point of object was used for metering, please? I'm thinking buying same attachment for myself as well,
thanks a lot in advance!
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bmattock
Veteran
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wigwam/400147153/
I had previously metered the Amtrak logo (the brightest spot in the frame) and the inside of the doorway (darkest spot where I wanted to retain detail). I set my exposure for two stops less exposure than the dark door frame indicated. The employee appeared as I was setting up to get the shot - I thought passengers would be disembarking but they got off elsewhere.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wigwam/1355267918/
I spot metered the picture frame behind the bride and decided that would serve as my middle tone. It went a bit to the high key side, but I liked that result.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wigwam/539608072/
Here I metered the area inside the opening of the wooden covered bridge. I wasn't happy with what the meter was telling me, so I metered the foliage and went with that. Happy coincidence, I got some detail on the inside of the bridge anyway.
arthur sadowsky
Established
Thanks a lot for your prompt reply and I really like your photo work! The picture of the bride is wonderful in particular (I'm not big on b@w pics, but this pic is simply great!)!!
Wish you all the best
...victoriapio
Well-known
When all else fails, try this $5 light meter:
http://www.indianhillimageworks.com/catalog/shoot-diana/shoot-diana-exposure-calculator
http://www.indianhillimageworks.com/catalog/shoot-diana/shoot-diana-exposure-calculator
uhligfd
Well-known
Elliot,
just wondering why you would want to depict a dark black hole by a gray black hole? And a white piece of snow on medium dark rock as a gray piece of snow. I have no idea why you like to depict both dark and light as gray as you say.
What is the purpose of that? Of course, if you have a purpose like that for some reason, by all means deviate from the incidence reading accordingly.
But I personally like to depict the scene, a scene as it appears to me, Overexpose or underexpose as much as you like, Eliot, and by as much as you like, but that incidence reading gives us the proper exposure still holds.
Do you like the faint underexposed pics of Stefanie Schneider on LUMAS. So be it: underexposed they are and still sell well. Artistic licence, but underexposed (or printed) ...
just wondering why you would want to depict a dark black hole by a gray black hole? And a white piece of snow on medium dark rock as a gray piece of snow. I have no idea why you like to depict both dark and light as gray as you say.
What is the purpose of that? Of course, if you have a purpose like that for some reason, by all means deviate from the incidence reading accordingly.
But I personally like to depict the scene, a scene as it appears to me, Overexpose or underexpose as much as you like, Eliot, and by as much as you like, but that incidence reading gives us the proper exposure still holds.
Do you like the faint underexposed pics of Stefanie Schneider on LUMAS. So be it: underexposed they are and still sell well. Artistic licence, but underexposed (or printed) ...
david.elliott
Well-known
I never said any of that. Also, you could at least spell my name correctly.
gabrioladude
Member
wow, I go out for the afternoon and come back to 30 replies (actually there were 6 when I went out)
let me sincerely thank all of the respondents. I'll be typing all night if I respond to each, but do want to comment on some of them
actually I was out shooting and using some of the advice from the first 6 respondents. The advice of pointing the meter towards the ground and avoiding the sky, I found particularly helpful. Will try to finish the roll tomorrow and develop it this weekend
furcafe mentioned that since I also have a Luna pro I must have big pockets. Actually I bought the Digi-six because I found the Luna pro too big. So size is an issue for me.
To Bmattock the size issue is one of the reasons I don't want to use a spotmeter when doing street photography. It is just too unwieldy for this type of shooting. The irony is that I recently acquired a used spotmeter which I plan to use for some B&W landscape work (with a Bronica ETRS)
thank you to uhligfd for the info on how to use the Digi-six properly. I was not aware of the feature of holding down the button. It will come in very handy.
To Roger Hicks, I took note of your kind offer to acess your instructional pages recently, and last night I did in fact go through the two sections you have on exposure, and kept them in mind this afternoon. Thanks for your generosity.
again thank you for all the helpful comments. This is a very supportive group....
let me sincerely thank all of the respondents. I'll be typing all night if I respond to each, but do want to comment on some of them
actually I was out shooting and using some of the advice from the first 6 respondents. The advice of pointing the meter towards the ground and avoiding the sky, I found particularly helpful. Will try to finish the roll tomorrow and develop it this weekend
furcafe mentioned that since I also have a Luna pro I must have big pockets. Actually I bought the Digi-six because I found the Luna pro too big. So size is an issue for me.
To Bmattock the size issue is one of the reasons I don't want to use a spotmeter when doing street photography. It is just too unwieldy for this type of shooting. The irony is that I recently acquired a used spotmeter which I plan to use for some B&W landscape work (with a Bronica ETRS)
thank you to uhligfd for the info on how to use the Digi-six properly. I was not aware of the feature of holding down the button. It will come in very handy.
To Roger Hicks, I took note of your kind offer to acess your instructional pages recently, and last night I did in fact go through the two sections you have on exposure, and kept them in mind this afternoon. Thanks for your generosity.
again thank you for all the helpful comments. This is a very supportive group....
swoop
Well-known
Learn to use exposure compensation It'll save you from insanity.
I add 2/3rds exposure compensation to my M8 during daylight hours.
And -1/3rd in the evening.
I add 2/3rds exposure compensation to my M8 during daylight hours.
And -1/3rd in the evening.