Please help with M6.

Brian, got it, trying it out. This is my third film going to the garbage can.

Avotius, one step at the time. As soon as I'm done with the problems for dummies, i.e. me, I'll take some photos and publish, most likely - tomorrow.

Francisco, i grabbed it tightly and ...

Old joke about the dead programmer, who was found dead in the shower. The directions on the shampoo bottle said: lather, rinse, repeat 😀
 
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chancellor,

the real "clue" for the film to catch on properly is to watch the rewind knob on top of the camera and see if it turns while you wind the film. The properly catched on film should drag the knob to turn. You might have to slightly tighten the rewind knob in the begining just to be sure that the film is "tensioned". But if you are afraid to do so, just let the film to waste a few frames in the beginning and "evetually" this knob will turn. If it doesn't, then you know the film is not catching on.
 
How many Programmers does it take to change a light bulb? None, it's a Hardware Problem.

Don't throw the rolls into the trash; rewind them by hand back into the cartridge and try again. Practice makes Perfect.

As bad as this seems, a Voigtlander Vitessa is worse.

Signing off. Good Luck. Will check back tomorrow. Post if you get it., Post a shot of the camera on the Camera and Coffee thread.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
This is where my M3 with the removable film spool is so much easier! Thread it outside of the camera, and drop it in.


Yeah, sometimes these "Easy-Load" devices for the M4+ sound a whole lot more complicated than the M3/2.

Dunno if its just me, but physically taking the spool out of my M2 is a lot easier than fidgiting with dropping the film in oh-so-correctly in anything newer...
 
To must of us, the idea of "easy" in "easy load" suggests "mindless" or "quick", but the Easy Load in the Leica gear is, surprisingly enough, very easy. We're simply falling prey to our own expectations of "easy."

Chance, pick up one of those rolls of film you threw away. If the film lead is still out, sit down and practice. Better yet, download the Leica M6TTL manual from THIS WEBSITE (JOE CHAN'S) and follow the directions in the resulting PDF download.

I've also posted some detailed directions in the previous page. 🙂

Again... good luck! 😉
 
Chancellor,

try to spin the rewind crank without any film in the camera. See if it rotates freely. If not, then the shaft is bent and that what caused to film to not advancing.

I saw this problem before when a girl is frustrated her M6 keeps on jamming when she advance the film.
 
ive seen the problem where the rewind shaft was bent and the film would not advance too. Ususaly happens when the camera is dropped on its winder.
 
Folks, after reading the manual, researching, getting dissapointed, and repeating the aforesaid process for hours, I finally located the solution for the problem. Evidently it wasn't the operator's mistake, neither camera malfunction, but a little trick of the trade was needed:

http://www.butzi.net/reviews/pleated.htm

Thank you all for your help. I'm very excited now and just shot my first Ilford XP2 film. I ruined a few of those last night with a few Kodak C41s... Going to a some fast development place to see the first shots (I don't expect anything better than below average at this point).

Today will post some pics of the camera with the lens. My next thing is to find one of those nice Leica cases (Wetzlar I believe?) to carry around the M6 and Summicron 35 f/2.
 
Chance, please, don't do that. One consequence of folding the tip of your film that way is that upon rewinding, it may (with emphasis on "MAY") damage the shutter curtain. In fact, for a while I used the same loading trick until I spoke to a Leica representative in Chicago, who adviced vehemently against it.

In other words. the "easy load" system is very easy, once you see that "easy" does not mean "mindless." When loading film, just make sure the film and the sprocket engage. That's all it takes, Chance.

Nothing beats sacrificing a roll. Pick one, and practice with it. Take care! 🙂
 
Chance

Don't worry, I did the same thing the first time I loaded my M4. I normally put the film leader across the take up spool through two of the finger slots. I have the back open when doing the loading and try and make sure that the leader is pushed down into the take up spool. I then close the back and put on the bottom plate. I then give the wind lever a sharp/quick/positive wind, nothing tentative about it. Release the shutter. Then back wind the rewind lever, in the direction of the arrow on it, gently till I feel that there is tension on the film. Then I repeat the sharp/quick/positive wind while checking to see if the rewind crank turns in the opposite direction to the arrow on the crank to see if the film is winding on. If it turns then the film is winding on. That seems to do it. I have never had to use the folded leader tip idea and the loading is now as positive as it was with my Nikons. It just take some getting used to especially coming from digital with no prior film experience. Let us know how you make out.

Nikon Bob
 
I don't own an M-6, but here's t wo suggestions: (1) experiment with a test roll...if you have one...(2) check the manual...it will show you how you can tell when the film is advancing...on the earlier Leica's, the dot or dots on the rewind knob move around clockwise if the film is advancing...that system may still be used in similar fashion on the M6...regards, bob
 
Francisco, thanks for the advice. I was so frustrated with any lack of success loading the film by following the directions that this approach was god-send to me. I'll surely look into improving the film-loading technic over the weekend.

Nikon Bob, thanks for the advice and instructions. It will take a bit to get used to, but I'm sure I'll acquire the craft.

bob cole, by now I know the damn manual by heart 😀 Thanks.
 
chancellor said:
Folks, after reading the manual, researching, getting dissapointed, and repeating the aforesaid process for hours, I finally located the solution for the problem. Evidently it wasn't the operator's mistake, neither camera malfunction, but a little trick of the trade was needed:

http://www.butzi.net/reviews/pleated.htm

Thank you all for your help. I'm very excited now and just shot my first Ilford XP2 film. I ruined a few of those last night with a few Kodak C41s... Going to a some fast development place to see the first shots (I don't expect anything better than below average at this point).

Today will post some pics of the camera with the lens. My next thing is to find one of those nice Leica cases (Wetzlar I believe?) to carry around the M6 and Summicron 35 f/2.

Check this book out:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/15...8024-9630350?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=283155

Money well spent IMHO.

Les
 
So, is this thread gonna get Stickified, or will it just dissapear into the archives?
I do think that somebody should hold onto it, because there is a thread on how to load a LTM Bottom-Loader...
 
SolaresLarrave said:
Alright, Chance, here's the drill.

1) Grab a roll of film and pull the lead out some 4 inches.

2) Drop film in film chamber as indicated in the diagram (make sure the long end points to where the bottom plate goes. Do this with the camera back open as well.

3) When you drop in the film, also make sure the extended lead goes into the body.

4) The tip of the lead should go in between the prongs of the take-up spool. If you need to make it go "behind", do it, but in essence, it goes between two of the three prongs.

5) Gently push film canister into body. Help film fit in the film chamber with the tip of your finger. The goal is that the sprocket wheel engages the film perforations. This is the real way in which Leica cameras pull film. The take-up spool only collects it, it will not pull it. The teeth in the sprocket do it.

6) Once the film perforations have engaged with the sprocket's teeth, if you want to ensure work, tug, very gently, the film advance lever. If the sprocket wheel moves and pulls the film out of the canister, you're set to go.

7) Close back of camera.

8) Place bottom plate in place.

9) Advance film. If the Film Rewind crank moves every time you advance the film with the lever, you have been successful at loading your camera.

10) If it does not move, remove bottom plate, lift back and check.

11) In case you want to remove film and reinsert it, make sure it falls freely out of the camera. Otherwise, move the film rewind lever (which is the little lever on the front of the camera, next to the tiny "R") to the right (camera facing you), and then rewind film back in the canister, very carefully, so as not to get it all into the canister.

12) Remove film.

13) Go back to step 1.

It takes time to get it right... but, more than time, it takes a little practice. I took a roll of film and made it my "practice" roll, so I loaded my camera with it, and later I opened the camera with that film in just to see it go all the way. Yes, you wreck a roll, but you also learn how to load the camera without a hitch.

Good luck! 🙂



This post should be a sticky! Joe please note. :angel: 😎 :angel:

The only addition would be: between steps 9 and 10: If the rewind crank does not rotate when advancing the film, take up the excess film in the canister by slightly "rewinding" the film to tension it. Do not overdo this as that wil strip the sprocket holes in the film.
 
jaapv said:
This post should be a sticky! Joe please note. :angel: 😎 :angel:

The only addition would be: between steps 9 and 10: If the rewind crank does not rotate when advancing the film, take up the excess film in the canister by slightly "rewinding" the film to tension it. Do not overdo this as that wil strip the sprocket holes in the film.

Jaap, completely agree, this post was extremely helpful. Risking to sound pushy, but I wonder if for future inquisitive newbies like me, the photos of each step can be added?
 
Hi

I' d suggest is more reliable if you:-

- take the film through the prongs until the film tip almost touches the other side of the take up prong chamber, i.e. pull more film than the little diagram stuck to the baseplate suggests, you get two bites of the prongs on the film doing this
- omit step 6 (the film will slip through the prongs unless the bottom is in place -- the device on the bottom plate locks (crushes) the prongs on to the film, the film will slip unless the baseplate is in place.) You need confidence the auto load will work every time.
- note the manual reference above says you can snap the film in cold temperatures, I keep film in inner pocket of outer jacket so it does not get down to ambient to avoid this... though if it is -40 you still might have a problem...
- some people (M4-M7s) have problems with some thin modern film bases and need to put a fold at end of film to avoid slipping through the prongs. Not sure about this as I've not needed this myself, even on an old M4...
- If you get to zero on the counter and the re-winder is not moving then one can see if (gently) taking up slack on the re-winder produces resistance or alternatively remove the bottom -- the latter will sacrifice two frames if it was ok...

Noel
 
chancellor said:
Jaap, completely agree, this post was extremely helpful. Risking to sound pushy, but I wonder if for future inquisitive newbies like me, the photos of each step can be added?

Fire away...
 
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