Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Mark: I haven't done as extensive an eval of images as you, but I agree about the bokeh.
Johnmcd
Well-known
Johnmcd
Well-known
Roma
Well-known
Considering R3M also
Considering R3M also
Thanks for your shots John and Memphis!
John, was your HP5 pushed by chance? My HP5 shots don't look quiet as grainy when I shoot at ISO400. Maybe it's the scanner. I haven't scanned any of my film stuff yet because I'm trying to decide which scanner to buy and probably end up with Epson's V700.
Luke,
I want a camera and lens combo that I can take everywhere with me. The fact that it will be a small size f1.4 lens for street stuff and better hand-holding at slower shutter speeds are my biggest attractions to R3A and 40 Nokton. (well, the price also). The only thing i still don't know is if I should get the R3M since I'm beginning to shoot more and more B&W film. In my SLRs, the metering is not so great for B&W film and I'm having to overexpose many shots if I want good dark-room prints.
Did anyone here change from R3A to R3M or the other way around because of metering??? I know that R3M shows metering at the bottom of the viewfinder in place of shutter speeds of R3A. How does R3A show you metering?
Thanks to all of you guys and girls again!
Roman
Considering R3M also
Thanks for your shots John and Memphis!
John, was your HP5 pushed by chance? My HP5 shots don't look quiet as grainy when I shoot at ISO400. Maybe it's the scanner. I haven't scanned any of my film stuff yet because I'm trying to decide which scanner to buy and probably end up with Epson's V700.
Luke,
I want a camera and lens combo that I can take everywhere with me. The fact that it will be a small size f1.4 lens for street stuff and better hand-holding at slower shutter speeds are my biggest attractions to R3A and 40 Nokton. (well, the price also). The only thing i still don't know is if I should get the R3M since I'm beginning to shoot more and more B&W film. In my SLRs, the metering is not so great for B&W film and I'm having to overexpose many shots if I want good dark-room prints.
Did anyone here change from R3A to R3M or the other way around because of metering??? I know that R3M shows metering at the bottom of the viewfinder in place of shutter speeds of R3A. How does R3A show you metering?
Thanks to all of you guys and girls again!
Roman
Johnmcd
Well-known
I suppose they are sort of grainy but they are not pushed. The first lot is probably micrphen and the second lot is LC29. I think the grain can be accentuated in post processing if I'm heavy handed with the levels.
I use AE nearly exclusively with my R3A and I think it is great for making sure you get that shot.
I was lucky enough to pick a up a Multi Scan Pro a couple of months ago on ebay and it is very good. But good scans do take some effort. I scan as a colour positive to get as much dynamic range out of the scanner a spossible and then invert and desaturate.
Go the 3RA - just carry some batteries
The 3RA is 'aperature preferred' - you pick the F stop and the shutter speed is shown bottom inside of viewfinder. I also use the AE lock if I want to fiddle with the metering.
Cheers,
John
I use AE nearly exclusively with my R3A and I think it is great for making sure you get that shot.
I was lucky enough to pick a up a Multi Scan Pro a couple of months ago on ebay and it is very good. But good scans do take some effort. I scan as a colour positive to get as much dynamic range out of the scanner a spossible and then invert and desaturate.
Go the 3RA - just carry some batteries
The 3RA is 'aperature preferred' - you pick the F stop and the shutter speed is shown bottom inside of viewfinder. I also use the AE lock if I want to fiddle with the metering.
Cheers,
John
luketrash
Trying to find my range
Roma: The thing that drew me to the R3A is the automatic shutter speed out to 8 seconds.
This way I can take shots at night, with a tripod. I have taken a few shots where the shutter was open at least 5 seconds.
Also, when I'm in a hurry to take a photo, I can just push the button and aperture priority works nicely.
This is mainly why I didn't bother to save up for a Leica M6, and the M7 is so expensive that me buying it wouldn't make any sense.
This way I can take shots at night, with a tripod. I have taken a few shots where the shutter was open at least 5 seconds.
Also, when I'm in a hurry to take a photo, I can just push the button and aperture priority works nicely.
This is mainly why I didn't bother to save up for a Leica M6, and the M7 is so expensive that me buying it wouldn't make any sense.
Roma
Well-known
Thanks guys, I hope it arrives this week
Thanks guys, I hope it arrives this week
Thank you John and Luke for giving me more pointers with this investment. I'm not independently wealthy and can't just buy what I want any time I want it and discard it when I change my mind.
I got an R3A black, mint with a 40mm Nokton MC kit coming from ebay hopefully this week.
I went to an annual photo flea market yesterday and one of the vendors had an M7 in the box. I asked to look at it and have to admit it's a damn "sex-machine"
.
HOWEVER, when this guy was handing it to me, I noticed that his hands were shaking and he was asking me to be extra careful with the thing. This is THE thing that turned me completely off this "sex machine". I want a camera so I can get my ars out there and take some photos, instead of worrying about it's loosing $1000 if I put a scratch on it.
Thanks to everyone for replying to this thread!
Roman
Thanks guys, I hope it arrives this week
Thank you John and Luke for giving me more pointers with this investment. I'm not independently wealthy and can't just buy what I want any time I want it and discard it when I change my mind.
I got an R3A black, mint with a 40mm Nokton MC kit coming from ebay hopefully this week.
I went to an annual photo flea market yesterday and one of the vendors had an M7 in the box. I asked to look at it and have to admit it's a damn "sex-machine"
HOWEVER, when this guy was handing it to me, I noticed that his hands were shaking and he was asking me to be extra careful with the thing. This is THE thing that turned me completely off this "sex machine". I want a camera so I can get my ars out there and take some photos, instead of worrying about it's loosing $1000 if I put a scratch on it.
Thanks to everyone for replying to this thread!
Roman
Dougg
Seasoned Member
Here are three from the 40 Nokton SC, all wide open or very nearly. One is almost all bokeh, with just the glass at lower left in focus. I have run into a bit of flare if there's a very strong light source in or just outside the frame. As mentioned, the bokeh is less pleasant wide open and with a busy sparkly background.
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kshapero
South Florida Man
mich8261 said:Roman, no picture, I haven't purchased my copy yet, but I am doing similar research. If you are interested in the 40, I think you should consider the R3A since is has the viewfinder lines for this lens. The R2A starts at 35.
Of course if you want the macho all manual, go R3M. Squek
kshapero
South Florida Man
I changed from the R3A to the R3M. The metering was a main reason. See gandy for specifics, but works better for serious photography. By the way the Piano Black finish is super nice. I am getting continously good exposures at 1/8 and 50% good at 1/4 with the 40mm MC.Roma said:Did anyone here change from R3A to R3M or the other way around because of metering??? I know that R3M shows metering at the bottom of the viewfinder in place of shutter speeds of R3A. How does R3A show you metering?
Thanks to all of you guys and girls again!
Roman
Roma
Well-known
Thanks Dougg, I like the 3rd shot. It actually shows me more about the bokeh than the other 2. The first 2 are mostly out of focus and most of my shots will not be that extreme.
Akiva, I don't think I'm macho enough to have to have the M version. I just wanna take good pictures and not lose the moment when necessary (even though it's nice to use the manual mode sometimes). Thanks for your reply!
Akiva, I don't think I'm macho enough to have to have the M version. I just wanna take good pictures and not lose the moment when necessary (even though it's nice to use the manual mode sometimes). Thanks for your reply!
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
The MC and SC should have excatly the same bokeh. Surely bokeh is down to lens design not the lens coating.
Dougg
Seasoned Member
Yes, Jon, I'm sure you're right. Just a difference in contrast, with the SC a little more prone to veiling flare I think.
Johnmcd
Well-known
Roma said:Thank you John and Luke for giving me more pointers with this investment. I'm not independently wealthy and can't just buy what I want any time I want it and discard it when I change my mind.
I got an R3A black, mint with a 40mm Nokton MC kit coming from ebay hopefully this week.
I went to an annual photo flea market yesterday and one of the vendors had an M7 in the box. I asked to look at it and have to admit it's a damn "sex-machine".
HOWEVER, when this guy was handing it to me, I noticed that his hands were shaking and he was asking me to be extra careful with the thing. This is THE thing that turned me completely off this "sex machine". I want a camera so I can get my ars out there and take some photos, instead of worrying about it's loosing $1000 if I put a scratch on it.
Thanks to everyone for replying to this thread!
Roman
Roman,
Glad that I could help. I'm sure you will be very happy with the R3A. I'm like you, no unlimited funds to chop and change. But we can always dream of the beautiful camera that we pick up for peanuts on ebay because nobody else sees it!
And I've got my sights squarely on a Zeiss Ikon zm when I win lotto
Cheers,
John
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sockeyed
Well-known
Here are two wide-open CV 40/1.4 shots:


maitrestanley
Established
Are you sure the first one is WIDE open??? The DOF looks a bit deep for f1.4...
no_doubt_kit
Member
all of my photo in my gallery is captured by Nokton 40mm f/1.4 S.C.
check out~
www.fotop.net/nodoubtkit
check out~
www.fotop.net/nodoubtkit
kurotama
Established
Let me contribute some samples from my stash. Mine is 1.4 MC. I think it goes well with color positives too. This lens vignettes in a certain weak lighting conditions which may mean "classic."
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