Please recommend me a Rangefinder + Lens for $1000 budget.

[micromoogman]

That was what I payed last time at a flea market...a regular Konica C35 is just as good... But that is if you're into this for snapping good pictures. But if you're like most of us, you'll won't settle before you own a Leica or a Contax 😀 Btw: I modified one of my C35 and used a Instamatic lens...great toycam effect! Attached are two C35 pics fresh from the scanner... and one with Instamatic lens.

 

[Marc-A.]

New: R3/2 and a Nokton 50 (the 35 is more expensive).
Used: Leica M2, Summicron 50 (DR for instance), and a good hand lightmeter like a Gossen Lunasix. You can get this fabulous combo for the amount of bucks you saved for, and you could not have any regret with this (and if you'd have any, you could resell it at the same price! Not bad!?).
Good luck with your acquisition,
Marc

 

[rover]

I held a modern Voightlander once, flipped it over and saw Cosina written on the bottom, Sad. I then left the shop and drove across town to another shop and bought a second hand Contax G2 for the same price as a new Voightlander. Sorry Voightlander fans.

Ever look at your beloved Contax G2? See the styling of the body? Look familiar?

It is made by Cosina. 😱

 

[rover]

One answer for the camera: Bessa R2A or R3a - as the R2M, R3M recommended in former posts have no AE. The R3a has a finder with 1:1 magnification - so if you use the 50mm lens mostly I'd recommend this body. The R2a with it's smaller magn. would be recommended if you intend to use the 35mm lens often, too.

Lens: it's depending on your needs in term of speed, compactness, contrast, bokeh and so on. The 50/1.5 Voigtlander Nokton would fit in your budget. The 50/2 Summicron is available below $500, at least with some luck on the auction site (I had one for $440). The collapsible 50 Summicron goes for even less. And there are a lot of older 50mm lenses with Leica screw mount which could be used with an adapter, amongst them Canon (1.2, 1.4, 1.8 versions), Nikkor (1.4, 2.0 versions). Cameraquest has some useful lens guides here: Leica M, Leica LTM

Didier

Didier wrote my response to the question.

It was mentioned that you can save $900 and get a compact fixed lens RF too. That is not a bad idea as those cameras are very capable. and will leave you room to buy a Bessa or other camera later if you really like it.

 

[rxmd]

If you can pack enough food for a trip to keep from dying, I'm sure you can pack enough batteries to keep from running out of energy for your camera

Unless you're in the arctic, of course 😉

The batteries are a standard type available anywhere in the world, and they're so small that if you're afraid of running them low there is really no excuse from taking along some spares - one has to pack film anyway. And they do last quite long.

Philipp

 

[Flyfisher Tom]

Unless you're in the arctic, of course 😉

The batteries are a standard type available anywhere in the world, and they're so small that if you're afraid of running them low there is really no excuse from taking along some spares - one has to pack film anyway. And they do last quite long.

Philipp

When I am in the arctic, I string my button batteries into a big shiny necklace.

Easy access, and easy to see for the rescue team 😀

 

[rxmd]

I held a modern Voightlander once, flipped it over and saw Cosina written on the bottom, Sad. [...] Sorry Voightlander fans.

Lo and behold, brand names at work. It's a fine camera, no matter what's written on it.

Voigtländer has been nothing but a name for longer than I'm alive.

Philipp

 

[Johnmcd]

I held a modern Voightlander once, flipped it over and saw Cosina written on the bottom, Sad. I then left the shop and drove across town to another shop and bought a second hand Contax G2 for the same price as a new Voightlander. Sorry Voightlander fans.

What's wrong with Cosina written on the bottom? I believe they also make the Ikon body, RD-1 body and Rollei body. Without Cosina (and their faith in R/F's), we would have none of these cameras. Most of us own something that was made in Japan ie. Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Minolta or Pentax. I don't understand this R/F snobbery...

Cheers,

John

 

[rover]

Cosina has made bodies for Canon, Nikon, Olympus and many more manufacturers. Let's not get thrown off course by a discussion about Cosina, let's focus on spending Bosk's money.

 

[BrianPhotog]

What's wrong with Cosina written on the bottom? I believe they also make the Ikon body, RD-1 body and Rollei body. Without Cosina (and their faith in R/F's), we would have none of these cameras. Most of us own something that was made in Japan ie. Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Minolta or Pentax. I don't understand this R/F snobbery...

Cheers,

John

What's funny is that there is (I think) a little Cosina in the G2...the chassis?

 

[Johnmcd]

Cosina has made bodies for Canon, Nikon, Olympus and many more manufacturers. Let's not get thrown off course by a discussion about Cosina, let's focus on spending Bosk's money.

You're right 🙂

My vote (for what it is worth from a relative R/F newbie myself) is the R3A and 40mm 1.4. Because a couple of months ago, I was you.

I got mine for $1295 AUS. Which is about $15 US last time I looked... 🙂

 

[Flyfisher Tom]

I got mine for $1295 AUS. Which is about $15 US last time I looked... 🙂

Really? Time to book an aussie vacation then 😉

 

[fitzihardwurshd]

You stated you wanted aperture priority as a requirement, so I'm not quite sure why everyone is recommending the M2/M3/R2M/R3M 's. Those cameras don't fit that requirement.

Because some people have more fun with convincing others that their own religion is the right one then with trying to find an adaequate solution for the person who asks.
Recently somebody asked in another forum for a compact auto with built in flash and even there the M3 crowd did not hesitate to praise their 50yo bottom loaders as a perfect solution. :bang:

My only advice would be not to care about brands, listening to people who get volvulous from readin' "Cosina" on the bottom plate leads nowhere.
I would rather recommend strongly not to buy anthing what I have not tried out myself, mainly the finders are an issue, beeing the central interface between photog and film.

Maybe the last AP article about R, ZI an M7 would be helpful too.

Fitzi

 

[chug]

Thanks for the replies so far.

So what would be the pros/cons of a used M3 as opposed to a R2M or R3M?
Cheers.

You get to be a Leica snob! Btw, you'd be lucky to get an M7 and lens for it if the budget is only a grand. You'd be looking at around Au$1600 for an M6 body alone, an M7 is much more if you want the AE. Then you'd need a lens, which could be anything. You can go with the cheaper CV lenses or wait and find a nice cheap Leica lens.

Your best bet is with an R3A or an R2A. Mainline have them in a kit form for $1300 bucks with a fantastic lens. If you want, you could get a grey one for a little bit more.

Cheers

 

[Johnmcd]

Really? Time to book an aussie vacation then 😉

We'll maybe a slight exaggeration. Love to have you visit though 🙂 Most things are cheap except camera gear...

Cheers,

John

 

[Bosk]

Thanks again guys for the many great suggestions so far.
Nice to hear from some fellow Aussies too! 🙂


Right now I'm probably leaning towards a Voightlander R3A or R2A, since I really like the comfort factor of having an aperture mode there if I need it.


Regarding lens choice, I've pretty much decided that I want a 50mm as this is my favourite film equivalent focal length on SLRs.

The Voightlander 50 1.5 and 50 f2 both seem like possible choices. I'm not sure I'd want a lens that's slower than f2 though.
The main questions I need to get answered now are how good is the bokeh and performance wide-open on these two lenses, and would it be worth spending the extra on a used Leica equivalent 50?

I'm a 'bokeholic' and love fast primes so ideally I want something I can shoot at the max fstop and get smooth, creamy backgrounds but razor sharp foreground subjects. I don't mind paying a little extra or buying used if it's going to get me far better performance.

 

[Flyfisher Tom]

For what it is worth, in the 50mm realm, my favorite is the Leica 50/2 summicron (tabbed IV or hooded V versions, same optical formula). Incredible 3-D separation of subject from OOF areas.

 

[rover]

I do not have a 50 Nokton, but everything I have seen from them I like. The bokeh is nice from what I have seen from this lens.

Ok, when I got into this RF thing I was after the same thing, I loved the look of images from the 50 Summicron. I didn't buy one at first, and I wasn't happy until I did. You may save some money, if that is what you really want, by just spending a little more up front and get that Summicron as Tom suggests. Though, any 50 Summicron will do. My favorite is my Rigid from 1960.

 

[Flyfisher Tom]

My favorite is my Rigid from 1960.

Ralph is right, you cannot lose with any of the crons, from the rigid, to the DR, to the latest versions. I've seen some very impressive work with the Rigid as well.

 

[jja]

If you absolutely must stay within budget and the aperture priority requirement:

R2a ($539) and Konica 50mm f/2 M-Hexanon ($350-$400 on the used market, but you have to patiently wait for one on e-bay).

The M-Hexanon is the equal to the Leica 50/2 Summicron in every way, including the character of its bokeh, and perhaps surpases it in build quality (I have owned both).

I have never owned an R2a, so I cannot speak to its build quality, ergonimics, etc. I have owned a Nikon FM3a SLR, which does have AE and is close to a rangefinder in terms of size and ergonimcs. When I moved from the FM3a to a meterless Leica M2, I found that not having to rely on the internal meter changed my style and composition, as well as my awareness of lighting.

Let me explain further. The FM3a, and most AE cameras, automatically expose for the center--therefore there is a tendency (for me, at least) to center your subjects so they are properly exposed. You also have to compensate for back-lit conditions, so this may or may not slow you down. There is on some AE cameras the option of AE Lock, but, again, this slows things down a bit and trends your compositions to the center.

Moving to the M2 and other meterless cameras: You need a handheld meter, and some may say that this slows you down, but it can also make you a more intuitive and faster photographer. Coming to a scene, you need to think in advance about the light, meter a couple of different locations, and remember those F-stop/Shutter combinations. But once you get a rhythm, you meter only occasionally, pay attention to the light (intensity, direction, quality), and you are freed to compose more creatively. This has been my experience, ymmv.

If you need AE, then you need AE, but do not discount entirely the a meterless camera.

Edit: I agree about the 50mm Summicron, an outstanding lens. Handles beautifully and is smaller and feels lighter than the Konica I recommended. The latest version w/ built-in hood can be found for $600-$650 on the used market and is worth it, imo.